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Thanks for the quick reply Georges. This is the weird part now - I DID replace the sensor with a new one a week ago , but it does not help. If I check the readings from the sensor, it DOES gives the correct temperature readings. If my memory serves me right, the error I got from last time scan is the P0113 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Bank 1). I'm really lost now.
Have 2012 E350 with rattling chain at start up. Will replace upper right side timing chain tensioner but need help with check valve part number. MB dealers in area don’t know & suggest I buy 2 different sizes, (2780504000) & (2780503300) sizes and see which one fits. This car will be getting check valve for first time, so nothing to compare it to. What is the correct part size number???
Hi Guys I ended up changing both adjusters I did the pass side and I also noticed that the drivers side adjuster is dis engaging while I was turning the crank pulley I love this motor lol, adjusters are 720 each
Thanks for your help on 2012 E350 right side tensioner replacement. For left tensioner (driver side), do I need to take intake off? Or can I simply remove oil filter housing?
Last edited by Flash21; 06-08-2020 at 10:45 PM.
Reason: Add info
If your issue only the intake adjuster, you can get to it/change it out fairly straight forward, provided you have the special adjuster tool, without removing the valve cover. I'm not 100% sure the MLs have everything in the same spots as the E's but the process is pretty straight forward:
1. Remove air filter housing and intake (disconnect all requisite sensors & vacuum hoses)
2. Disconnect Cam sensors & Adjuster magnet sensors)
3. Remove Cam sensors (you'll want these out to check your work later)
4. Remove front cam cover
5. Set engine timing to 40 degrees after TDC
6. Remove Rear High Pressure Fuel Pump Insulation
7. Pop off the rear cover at cam
8. Remove chain tensioner
9. Mark timing chain & adjuster for reassembly. Attach special tool to intake adjuster while holding cam in place in rear and remove adjuster (You want to make sure NOTHING moves here).
10. Reinstall chain tensioner.
11. Check your work once the tensioner is back on by slowly advancing the engine to the 53 degree mark and make sure you see the adjuster marks in the middle of the cam sensor windows. If they are set correctly (which they should be, you didn't disrupt anything) your repair is complete.
12. Install and torque in reverse order.
Probably 4 hours start to finish for the first time.
Are these the same instructions for intake camshaft adjuster for drivers side? While replacing chain adjuster & turning engine, intake adjuster valve kept popping. From what I’ve read, it’s indicator of bad adjuster. Also chain is always tight while rotating engine. Seems no slack at all thru rotating process. 40 past tdc also correct for this adjuster? Awesome info!!
Yep. Camshaft adjuster is the cause. This is an extremely common problem. I’ve replaced the check valves and tensioners as well. I switched the sensors and the code remained the same, meaning that the code is correct for a camshaft adjuster, and not a failing sensor.
I have this identical problem. Paid $1500 for the tensioners and check valve. Still have the noise. How much should I expect to pay for the cam shafts?
Hey guys I took my 2016 GLE400 in to dealer complaining about this issue and here is what they said:
Cause: (NON 0.2 - PERFORM COLD START. UNABLE TO DUPLICATE CLIENTCOMPLAINT, NO
ABNORMAL ENGINE RATTLE HEARD. CONNECT CHARGER. CONNECT SDS. PERFORM QUICK TEST.
FOUNDNO RELATED FAULT CODES. CHECK DTB LI FOUND RELATED LILI09.40-P-061542. THE
VALVE DISCK OF WASTEGATE INTURBOCHARGER MAY VIBRATE IN THE VALVE SEAT WHEN THE
WASTEGATE IS SLIGHTLYOPEN, POSSIBLY CAUSING RATTLING NOISE. THE NOISE IS
NORMALFORTHE CURRENT PRODUCTION CONFIGURATION, THERE IS NO DAMAGE.AS PER LI, AO
310 MUST BE ADDED VIA XENTRYTHEN SCN CODING.)
Correction: ADD 310 VIA XENTRY.PERFORM ME SCN CODING. CLEAR FAULT CODES.
PERFORMFINAL TEST.START ENGINE, FOUND NO ABNORMAL ENGINE RATTLE.ADVISE FOR
CLIENT TO DRIVE AND MONITOR.
What should I say? Is this right?
Last edited by gle400; 02-16-2021 at 01:24 PM.
Reason: Spacing
Hey guys I took my 2016 GLE400 in to dealer complaining about this issue and here is what they said:
Cause: (NON 0.2 - PERFORM COLD START. UNABLE TO DUPLICATE CLIENTCOMPLAINT, NO
ABNORMAL ENGINE RATTLE HEARD. CONNECT CHARGER. CONNECT SDS. PERFORM QUICK TEST.
FOUNDNO RELATED FAULT CODES. CHECK DTB LI FOUND RELATED LILI09.40-P-061542. THE
VALVE DISCK OF WASTEGATE INTURBOCHARGER MAY VIBRATE IN THE VALVE SEAT WHEN THE
WASTEGATE IS SLIGHTLYOPEN, POSSIBLY CAUSING RATTLING NOISE. THE NOISE IS
NORMALFORTHE CURRENT PRODUCTION CONFIGURATION, THERE IS NO DAMAGE.AS PER LI, AO
310 MUST BE ADDED VIA XENTRYTHEN SCN CODING.)
Correction: ADD 310 VIA XENTRY.PERFORM ME SCN CODING. CLEAR FAULT CODES.
PERFORMFINAL TEST.START ENGINE, FOUND NO ABNORMAL ENGINE RATTLE.ADVISE FOR
CLIENT TO DRIVE AND MONITOR.
What should I say? Is this right?
It could be right.
Wastegate rattle is a thing that happens to turbocharged cars. Not familiar with the GLE 400, but cars that have electronic wastegate actuators sometimes need recalibrating.
It seems your tech reflashed the ECU to mitigate this.
Yes this is correct. No fault codes, wastegate adjustment dependent on how bothersome rattling noise is (your call) note may be replaced by possible hissing see attached.
I was trying to replace camshaft adjuster on my m276 E350 2012, i get everything removed and when i was trying to remove the chain tensioner right side small 10 mm socket fall down between the chain and i tried to look for it and i could not found it. Could you tell me how bad is that ..or tell me some solutions..thank you
What ever you do DO NOT TURN OR START THE ENGINE. I would try fishing about with a strong magnetic probe to see if you can get it out. If that doesn't work I think you will have to remove the front engine covers to try and find it. It's a bit late for this now, but you should have placed some rags in the opening for the timing chains.
Good luck.
Thank's to everyone that's replied to the thread. I thought the solution to my rattle was just the tensioners and check valves, but now I don't think so.
Done a bit of research and it looks like my engine is the one that needs check valves + new tensioners (276 8xx 30 000790). Possibly camshaft adjusters as well judging by this thread.
Can anyone recommend a good competent engine mechanic in the UK who can take care of this for me? I wouldn't know where to begin tackling a problem like this. I'm happy to travel nationwide in the UK but I'm based in the West Midlands.
I would start phoning up all specialists in your region who work on Mercedes. This is a relatively well known situation so I would think you will find a handful of shops that can help.
Hi everyone, I did rebuild my m278 engine due to bad engine block. One of the adjuster was bad which is the passenger side which is very common so I changed along with check valves and tensioners. The timing is correct after checking everything but after turning on the engine I got a P0016 code and when I diagnostic with xentry It's telling me that ( compression joint on the camshaft has twisted and laser making must be in alignment) which I don't know what is that mean? I remember that chaining the adjuster very easy and it's basically a plug and play but I don't think so. I'm lost here and I'm gonna have to take the damn cover off again. Also I find this tool on amazon for the cam adjuster alignment but don't know it it's helpful . any thing will help. Thank you ??
My dealer had the same issue after replacing the camshaft on mine (twisted compression joint...?). They sourced another new camshaft, did it all again, and everything was within spec. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8422877
Not sure on the tool... just looks like it helps you check/hold everything in the right position (i.e. teeth properly aligned) for the timing chains, but wouldn't help with this particular issue (can't imagine you could be off by a tooth?).
You are right at the limit of the tolerance though... 7.425 vs 7.5 degrees max tolerance, with everything else perfect.
I had the same sound on cold startup in my M278 at 30k miles. I knew it was the timing chain from experience and use of my stethoscope on the front timing cover. I then insisted the dealer check it out.
They originally said it was normal operating sounds of direct injection. Then blamed the wastegates on the turbos.
They ultimately replaced the tensioner assembly and added a check valve to reduce drain-back and that fixed the problem.
You cant tell them what the problem is though. They have to discover it on their own I guess.
I did learn something from the whole ordeal... I saw on the invoice something i never heard of before, They replaced things called "Hexolobular" bolts. Or TORX head bolts as to you and I
Had a same thing said by the the dealership… same sound ideal… and even driving a low speeds… you could hear it… but when then driving at high rpm it would disappear.
solution solved! And fixed, they told me they changed belt bearings, and most of the spinning bearings on the tensioner..
Another thing they told me and even gave me showing my the bearings get old and you can see oil dried up in the spinning wheel… creating sounds that tick…
05-30-2020, 09:35 PM
Air Pressure Light Always On
