Hello All,
There seems to be a bit of a dead spot when accelerating medium to aggressive.
This only happens right after beginning rolling then normal
Always been this way
Anyone else had this?
Thanks
John

 

Does it happen in all modes (Comfort/Eco and Sport)? Just wondering if it’s the tranny in second starting off thing?

 

It happens in all modes including manual shift
Initially revs up off the line then drops a few hundred RPM briefly then recovers

 

This laggy throttle response is caused by VVT gears getting forced out of position under stock setup.
Better oiling will help lessen this condition.

 

Thank you
How does one achieve better oiling?
John

 

John, there's a free experimental fix for stock limited oiling setup.
Let me find a pointer for you... it's called MOD-X.

Some ppl stay with "MB Approved" 0/5W-40 oils
I run Amsoil PAO in 5W-50 viscosity
Some ppl run "MB Approved" MOTUL PAO "5W40"

The key is to spray cool your pistons effectively at normal driving RPM. That cleans and seals the drafty rings stuck with burnt stock oil.

Stock setup disables oil pump normal pressure under 3500Rpm... "to save-gas!"

 

Awesome thank you

 

the poor performance you noted is caused by unsealed cylinders loosing compression. The poor throttle control also causes poor gear shifts.

Car increasingly runs as if old prematurely with limited power. It just needs effective oiling. Extreme heat even gets canceled.

 

so this is all fixed by oil viscosity?Or is there something I can do to unrestrict the oil pump normal pressure restriction at low RPM?Thank youJohn.

 

I had that same car, in Coupe form, and don't recall anything like that happening. Sure there was the usual throttle lag while the ECU figures out what it's supposed to do, but the rpms didn't drop.
So I have to wonder how hard you are leaning on the converter, because that's the only reason I can think of to drop rpm. Basically, more details on what you're doing when this happens so we can try to figure it out. Eg; what rpm do you start at and how much gas are you giving it? What rpm/load does it not do this? For me the biggest lag is when it's deciding what to do AND decides to downshift. Basically a second to think, plus a second to shift. This happens daily as I slow to turn onto the freeway on ramp, then give maybe 1/4 throttle. So I give it gas ~ two seconds early, which is BS imo, but I've been unable to fix it. Or I can manually put it a lower gear, which not only eliminates the shift, but the higher the rpm is, the shorter the ECU delay. Optionally, if blip the throttle a couple sec before I gas it the lag is often cut in half. As if the ECU is snoozing and that wakes it up. Just some thoughts of things to experiment with.

You can unplug the oil dealie that Cali suggested, which did nothing for my throttle response but some say it helped a lot. Either way you should do that mod so you don't starve parts of oil.

Cali; a guy at my work said at idle his rockers rattle like marbles in a coffee can, and oil psi is very low until 3k, where it suddenly jumps to 40. It's a Mopar truck of some sort, but apparently they did the same BS oil bypass, which is killing his eng. He's also on his third cam. Like so many these days, the mfg says 0W-20, and what's worse is he's using it! Also read about a Ford engine failing from lack of oil (newer 5.0?), and if the eng is not too far gone, the factory fix is to use thicker oil than the oem 0W-20. I recall when I was younger; why would anyone use 10W-30. Now I hear they make 0W-8. I suppose next they'll use negative #'s, like -10W-0.

 

John, what is your engine model type ?

.... actually more than oil viscosity... normal pump pressure may need to be enabled.
Modern engines stock setup, have the oil pump volume limited by a solenoid at low Rpm.

This causes drafty cylinders losses that ECU turns into laggy lean throttle.

 

3.5 v6 normally aspirated
2013 e350 convertible

 

Ok, is that the M276 then you do have the stock limited oiling factory setup that is causing your laggy hesitations.
To cancel that you may want to experiment normal oiling free upgrade.

 

Thank you
Because I know nothing about this, what is "normal oiling free upgrade"?
John

 

He's talking about unplugging the oil bypass, which is what I was referring too. I assumed he posted a link but I guess not. Basically the bypass bleeds off oil below 3000 rpm, apparently to save fuel, at the expense of your engine. The story, as mentioned, is some claim it makes the throttle respond much faster.

 

Chev, you've been around long enough to know oil is essential. Limited oiling is a way to control new chaos.

The oil damage from reduced oiling is premature aging.

-A- The early stage is extreme heat cooks all engine plastics, sensors and seals.
-B- The next stage is drafty uneven cylinders. Weak engine from burn oil carboned rings.
-C- The next stage is misfires faults, fouled lambda and cats.

The oil pump solenoid is not a "bypass"... It's a volume control to limit oil pressure below 3500.Rpm.

What this does is keep cylinders oiling ineffective at normal driving Rpm... ouch!!!

Thin oil has very limited abilities. When engine rely on oil pressure for cam positioning, oil pressure must remain near stable.
FYI: Bosch ECU does not tolerate well any instabilities in oil pressure nor voltage from stock setup.

Don't use basic oils... instead use stable PAO group-IV. They are professional-grade to remain consistent longer.

MOD-X enables stable engine operation
Stock disables it.

 

Thank you
so…
How does one unplug the oil bypass and
What is MOD-X?
john

 

This is easy done on M276-NA... See this main thread.
MOD-0 : stock plugged in
MOD-1 : Unplugged 0w40 oil
MOD-2...3: intermadiate oil upgrades
MOD-X : 5W50 PAO oil

Here is an introductory review video

 

Awesome thank you

 

I don’t see in the videos where to unplug it
Could someone point me in the right direction
john

 

Hows your state of maintenance currently?

Plugs/oil/filters/transmission fluid?
Are you getting good MPG? efficiency is as a good of a dyno as anybody
tire psi ok? its not bogging on takeoff cuz everything is squishy?

its very difficult to diagnose online without seeing and knowing and feeling the car ya know but well figure it out

 

Highly maintained
no codes or issues other than this

 

... is a sure way of saying MOD-X is not a cure-all magic.

You must have reliable ignition and good overall engine condition.

"Effective oiling" takes sometime to restore rings performance... it's NOT 100% INSTANTANEOUS, 25% and up according to pistons rings conditions.

Hesitations are directly caused by lean fuel maps. Your engine is likely to respond well to an experimental 5w40 PAO oil upgrade.

 

Ok yes thank you
This will all be double checked in a few days
now…
where to unplug the oil bypass?

 

...what bypass ?

You have read this volunteer experimentation is safest as a one way process ?