Clearcoat Repairable?!?!?!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 36
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From: Seattle, Washington, USA
1989 300CE & 1988 300TE
Clearcoat Repairable?!?!?!
MY 88 300TE's clearcoat is starting to come off in a couple of spots...
I am not going to do a repaint. The question is, can I repair the funky areas, so it will at least look OK from 20 feet or so?!?!?!
I am not going to do a repaint. The question is, can I repair the funky areas, so it will at least look OK from 20 feet or so?!?!?!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2007
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
If it
is flaking or worn off detail shop buffing will only make it worse.
If you want to give it a go.Wet sand the edges of the worn areas with 2000 grit wet paper soaked for 1/2 hour in warm water and a few drops of dish washing liquid(dawn) wrap the paper around a flexible sanding block and lightly sand the edges,keep the paper wet at all times by dipping it in the water every 15 seconds or so.The clearcoat at the edges will turn cloudy looking but will buff out later.Wash the area and wipe it down with alcohol.
Tape it off with blue painters tape and brown masking paper.Go to napa one of the big napas that carries auto paint up in the north end the napa on airport rd in Everett carries it.Get a can of the 2 step catalyzed gloss clear coat.Have every thing ready because once you activate the can it is only good for a pot life of 20 hours or so.Pick up a tack cloth while at napa to wipe the parts to be sprayed just before painting.
If you spray in a warm garage it is best this time of year,but the smell of the clear will really spread throughout the house.So my advice is wait till a sunny warm day in spring with no wind and no chance of rain for 24 hours and then do it.Lightly spray the area in a pattern like overlapping slightly just like a spray gun.Practice on an old piece of metal.Do a few light coats so as not to drip.When dry after 24 hours,you can again lightly wet sand with 2500 grit wet paper and wash it off and buff with an orbital buffer and some polishing compound like meguires fine polish or menzerna final polish.If you take your time and do it right the car will look way better than a 20 footer.
have fun.
if you are not sure of your skills just do an area first that is not in a noticeable spot and sacrafice a can of the clearcoat.It is only about 8 bucks or so and then when you are sure you can do it,sand the other spots and follow the direction above.
If you want to give it a go.Wet sand the edges of the worn areas with 2000 grit wet paper soaked for 1/2 hour in warm water and a few drops of dish washing liquid(dawn) wrap the paper around a flexible sanding block and lightly sand the edges,keep the paper wet at all times by dipping it in the water every 15 seconds or so.The clearcoat at the edges will turn cloudy looking but will buff out later.Wash the area and wipe it down with alcohol.
Tape it off with blue painters tape and brown masking paper.Go to napa one of the big napas that carries auto paint up in the north end the napa on airport rd in Everett carries it.Get a can of the 2 step catalyzed gloss clear coat.Have every thing ready because once you activate the can it is only good for a pot life of 20 hours or so.Pick up a tack cloth while at napa to wipe the parts to be sprayed just before painting.
If you spray in a warm garage it is best this time of year,but the smell of the clear will really spread throughout the house.So my advice is wait till a sunny warm day in spring with no wind and no chance of rain for 24 hours and then do it.Lightly spray the area in a pattern like overlapping slightly just like a spray gun.Practice on an old piece of metal.Do a few light coats so as not to drip.When dry after 24 hours,you can again lightly wet sand with 2500 grit wet paper and wash it off and buff with an orbital buffer and some polishing compound like meguires fine polish or menzerna final polish.If you take your time and do it right the car will look way better than a 20 footer.
have fun.
if you are not sure of your skills just do an area first that is not in a noticeable spot and sacrafice a can of the clearcoat.It is only about 8 bucks or so and then when you are sure you can do it,sand the other spots and follow the direction above.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,433
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From: SFV CA
2008 Black Out C350 Saks Edition / 87 VW GTI
ohlord I like your technique.
Mr Stanly if I were you I will take it to have a fresh clear coat spray on and the paint will look like new. Just my 0.2 cents.
Mr Stanly if I were you I will take it to have a fresh clear coat spray on and the paint will look like new. Just my 0.2 cents.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 27
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From: Peoria, IL USA
w123
What OLord said.
Keep in mind that clear coat is paint. The ideal thing would be to sand it, re-color, and re-clear. If you are looking to make it more presentable, you can follow the steps that OLord laid out. There are guys who go around to dealers and do this sort of spotting in work. Sometimes it looks ok and sometimes it looks like poop. They make a "blender" that helps blend new clear into the old.
Keep in mind that clear coat is paint. The ideal thing would be to sand it, re-color, and re-clear. If you are looking to make it more presentable, you can follow the steps that OLord laid out. There are guys who go around to dealers and do this sort of spotting in work. Sometimes it looks ok and sometimes it looks like poop. They make a "blender" that helps blend new clear into the old.
