Door Seals
#1
Door Seals
Folks:
My door seals need to be replaced on my W123 (1981 240D 4speed). Just bought it second-hand in Southern California - 344k, everything (except for the sunroof) works. A daily driver, not concours.
Anyhow, I found some relatively inexpensive custom-fit seals online, but I need to know what is involved in replacing them. Relatively new to the DIY crowd, but I think that this is something that I can handle with some patience and time.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Gary
My door seals need to be replaced on my W123 (1981 240D 4speed). Just bought it second-hand in Southern California - 344k, everything (except for the sunroof) works. A daily driver, not concours.
Anyhow, I found some relatively inexpensive custom-fit seals online, but I need to know what is involved in replacing them. Relatively new to the DIY crowd, but I think that this is something that I can handle with some patience and time.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Gary
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
It has been my experience that the doors should be removed on the w123 in order to properly place the seal around the stop checks...However, you can proceed without removal - but use a strong, dual application weather seal bond to reattach the cut seal once you repair it around the stop.
Ensure that you remove all of the housing brackets; the front doors have a small bent metal frame inside the hinge side. Take time to work the bottom edge, and be sure to glue and place the lower section in the track.
It is not a hard job, and one that will only make you realize...that you now need to change the window felts and trim...
Good luck! You can do it!
Ensure that you remove all of the housing brackets; the front doors have a small bent metal frame inside the hinge side. Take time to work the bottom edge, and be sure to glue and place the lower section in the track.
It is not a hard job, and one that will only make you realize...that you now need to change the window felts and trim...
Good luck! You can do it!
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
If this can be done as above stated...go that route!
I replaced mine when the doors were off...Hence...My experience...If you can easily detach the stop check, and loom the seal into that area...Go that path.
I apologize if my post was a little misleading...
Thanks 240D 3.0T!
I replaced mine when the doors were off...Hence...My experience...If you can easily detach the stop check, and loom the seal into that area...Go that path.
I apologize if my post was a little misleading...
Thanks 240D 3.0T!
#5
I have to replace the front door checks anyhow (they seem cheap enough in the aftermarket)...
However, glue was also mentioned. I've read elsewhere that they need to be threaded, not glued. Is glue necessary? Are the original ones glued in? That may change my approach.
Gary.
However, glue was also mentioned. I've read elsewhere that they need to be threaded, not glued. Is glue necessary? Are the original ones glued in? That may change my approach.
Gary.
#6
Seals done. They were glued to the front edge (even though they were also clipped), but not around the rest of the door so I decided to not glue and just use the clip.
Did not remove the doors, but did unclip the door checks (replaced the front ones with aftermarket units - no big deal)...
All and all, not a tough job.
Did not remove the doors, but did unclip the door checks (replaced the front ones with aftermarket units - no big deal)...
All and all, not a tough job.
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#8
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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1984 300D turbo, 2001 320SLK
I had one heck of a time getting that trim adhesive (tried all the brands I could find) to adhere correctly to the rubber, that was the biggest pain, actually I could probably seal it some more with some black silicone. Where did you get your door seals? I got mine off of ebay I believe they are URO (Chinese)
#9
I was just at a junkyard and removed the seals from an 85 300TD and I plan to use them to replace the ones on my 81 300D. I also realized that pulling the clip and pin out of the door check enabled me to completely remove the seals (although it was hard not to rip that part of the seal). I could not get the metal strap on the driver's door off without bending it by mistake, at which point I just gave up and pulled it off, breaking the connectors. I don't want to make the same mistake on mine -- anyone know how to remove that part?
Also, I'm wondering how to put in the hard-to-fit parts. I heard someone mention soapy water, but how can I use glue at the same time? Is contact cement right?
Finally, I can go back and get some other stuff (except for one window which is closed and cannot be opened) to seal my car. Which seals need to be replaced to help get rid of the whistling noise at high speed?
Thanks a lot!
Also, I'm wondering how to put in the hard-to-fit parts. I heard someone mention soapy water, but how can I use glue at the same time? Is contact cement right?
Finally, I can go back and get some other stuff (except for one window which is closed and cannot be opened) to seal my car. Which seals need to be replaced to help get rid of the whistling noise at high speed?
Thanks a lot!