Starting Issues
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From: Northern Cali
W124
Starting Issues
Hey folks. My situation is that when I go to start my car especially after an overnight or long sit, I have difficulty cranking it over. It is nothing like having to crank the key a few seconds longer. I need to hold the key over for quite a significant amount of time AND pump some gas into it for the car to turn over. Once started, I need to continue giving gas or it will idle roughly or die out. Once I have prevented it from dying out I let it warm up by idling it at about 2000 rpm. Once I get the car moving its smooth sailing and when I shut it off and start it again, the problem is gone. I had the battery, alternator, and starter tested. All came up good. I also sometimes experience a clicking noise as I try to start the car. When I hear the clicking noise I back off the ignition and start over again until the clickin sound stops. Any help guys would be greatly appreciated.
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From: Hotlanta
AMG
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From: Northern Cali
W124
Thanks folks. At least the worry of an ignition issue is off my back. Silver Star Recycling has em' out here for $100. School has just started and its hard for me to cough up $250 for one from mercedesshop.com. Thanks for the help. In the meantime. I'm gonna clean up and take apart the airbox area to see what I'm dealing with.
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From: Long Island, New York
1994 MB E320, 1988 Porsche 951
The "clicking" noise is probably a sticking starter soleniod, the problem with keeping it running after it starts till warm is unrelated to the clicking problem. Check your out starter first.
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From: Boston
is a German Tank
I'm having the same issue, and truth be told it's been that way since winter (well the cold really) began around october...
Every morning I...
1. Turn the key and and leave it turned all the way
2. Pump the gas while the its turned all the way
3. Once I finally get it started I have to rev it around 2K RPMs and let it warm up enough to release the gas pedal...at this point it will no longer sputter and shut off!
Every morning I feel guilty of doing this to my baby but since she turns on then
oh yea it all started after I replaced my alternator and battery
Every morning I...
1. Turn the key and and leave it turned all the way
2. Pump the gas while the its turned all the way
3. Once I finally get it started I have to rev it around 2K RPMs and let it warm up enough to release the gas pedal...at this point it will no longer sputter and shut off!
Every morning I feel guilty of doing this to my baby but since she turns on then
oh yea it all started after I replaced my alternator and battery
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This could also be a faulty wiring harness, I had the same issue you had and the upper wiring harness was failing. This was a known bad harness from MB (they tried to get environmentally correct and used a bio degradeable wiring covers which disintegrate).
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relay behind battery
remove plastic panel its black on right side looking at battery
you will see a relay clear plastic top remove fuse and check it 10 amp
there is a list of things to do when installing a battery besides just yanking it out goes the same for jumping it this relay is very touchy
as far as EHA/FUEL GOVERNOR IF NOT LEAKING DONT MESS WITH IT
IF IT IS JUST REPLACE ORINGS IF LEAK IS AT SEAM IF LEAK IS AT SMALL
HOLES IN BACK THEN YOUR SOL AND MUST REPLACE I GOT MINE USED
AT SALVAGE FOR 65 IT WAS CRAP BOUGHT ONE OFF ENTERNET FOR 150
FOR HIGH FLOW UNIT MORE PONIES NO MORE PROBLEM GOOD LUCK
you will see a relay clear plastic top remove fuse and check it 10 amp
there is a list of things to do when installing a battery besides just yanking it out goes the same for jumping it this relay is very touchy
as far as EHA/FUEL GOVERNOR IF NOT LEAKING DONT MESS WITH IT
IF IT IS JUST REPLACE ORINGS IF LEAK IS AT SEAM IF LEAK IS AT SMALL
HOLES IN BACK THEN YOUR SOL AND MUST REPLACE I GOT MINE USED
AT SALVAGE FOR 65 IT WAS CRAP BOUGHT ONE OFF ENTERNET FOR 150
FOR HIGH FLOW UNIT MORE PONIES NO MORE PROBLEM GOOD LUCK
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From: Boston
is a German Tank
Originally Posted by jpganman
This could also be a faulty wiring harness, I had the same issue you had and the upper wiring harness was failing. This was a known bad harness from MB (they tried to get environmentally correct and used a bio degradeable wiring covers which disintegrate).
Well the harness to my alternator looks like *****...I've always figured that to be the culprit...
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From: Northern Cali
W124
I just spoke to my mechanic and he says when that happens its usually a fuel issue. I've already ordered the EHA from mercedesshop.com. I'll take a chance w/ it and let you guys know how it turned out.
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From: Northern Cali
W124
Its starting much easier now but I still need to give it some gas to get it started. What would that relay behind the battery control? If it went out don't you think the car wouldn't start at all? Well, I'm still pissed that I have the problem (and the fact I spend $250) but that's life I guess. Let me know what you guys come up with.
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From: Northern Cali
W124
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I had exactly the problem you described. I took it to an independent mercedes mechanic. He replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, and what he called the fuel sensor. He also cleaned out the throttle body and added injector cleaner. In other words, a tune up. It fixed the problem. The "fuel sensor" was a sensor that screwed into the head near the back of the engine, just to the rear of the water temperature sensor. He showed it to me and it looked like a temperature sensor. But there are two of them in a row. My water temperature sensor had been replaced 3 months before to get the fan to stop. (At the dealership). I think you are losing some ignition spark and revving the engine gives it a little more boost. Try tuning up your car.
