Possible Modifications to 1991 300ce?
#301
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New Toys:
+ w124 Limo/w124 Cabrio Front Swaybar & Bushings
+ w124 500e Rear Swaybar & Bushing
+ w140 Warning Triangle Bracket
+ w124 Shifter Linkage Bushings/Clips
+ w202 Shifter/Shift Rod + Bushing (thanks Jse420!)
+ w124 Limo/w124 Cabrio Front Swaybar & Bushings
+ w124 500e Rear Swaybar & Bushing
+ w140 Warning Triangle Bracket
+ w124 Shifter Linkage Bushings/Clips
+ w202 Shifter/Shift Rod + Bushing (thanks Jse420!)
#302
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Hoarding info again, don't mind me
Over the past few months I've been doing a ton of research (mostly online) and have found that forums arn't the greatest place to find info on any form of Bosch CIS, mainly because nobody knows everything. Any info I could find had to be cross referenced and pieced together from several locations. So to save anyone who is trying to diagnose their K, K lambda, KE, Jetronic or Motronic fuel injection:
http://bentlypublishers.com/isbn/978...001/index.html
I was lucky enough that my boss has one, and it is by far the most comprehensive, clear, readable, understandable literature I could find (as it should be considering it is a Bosch manual)
Goes through all the theory (which is very important to understand) as well as test procedures. Troubleshooting is included too. Great book. I finally know what an EHA valve is, what it does, and how it works!
PS: not hating on the forums, this topic is just a mystery to most people, and the best way to gain knowledge is to get it from the right place
http://bentlypublishers.com/isbn/978...001/index.html
I was lucky enough that my boss has one, and it is by far the most comprehensive, clear, readable, understandable literature I could find (as it should be considering it is a Bosch manual)
Goes through all the theory (which is very important to understand) as well as test procedures. Troubleshooting is included too. Great book. I finally know what an EHA valve is, what it does, and how it works!
PS: not hating on the forums, this topic is just a mystery to most people, and the best way to gain knowledge is to get it from the right place
#303
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For the record... I use the 5W-40 in all my vehicles, both gas & diesel, and get oil analysis at each change.
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#305
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Eeep! You did an engine flush? Like, pour in a can of cleaner and let the car idle for 10 minutes, then drain? If so, pleeeeease don't do that again - you were lucky nothing bad happened. Do some Googling about that. Good synthetics have a cleaning action all by themselves, it just takes a long time to fully clean internals (like, 5-10kmi, maybe more). The only cleaning product that is truly safe is Auto-RX, although most cars aren't sludged up enough to benefit from this, and based on my testing it doesn't do particularly well removing the brown varnish from M119 internals. Sure doesn't hurt anything though. Bottom line - no worries just switching to 5W-40 at your next oil change.
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#306
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I'm not sure. I had the techs at Jiffy Lube do it, so whatever method they used is what went down.
Good to know, I'll start buying up quarts of 5w-40 to keep in the trunk.
Do you know if the Mercedes Sanctioned Background Oil Consumption Rate of about 1 QT per 1000mi is still true of the synthetic?
Also, Bucky is in the shop today getting Swaybars put on, Ed's braided steel brake lines, brake fluid flush, brake fluid replaced with Castrol GTR DOT4, trans flush + filter, diff flush + filter, radiator flush + fill, Power Steering flush + fill.
I'm not sure I'm ready for how different it is going to be :P
Good to know, I'll start buying up quarts of 5w-40 to keep in the trunk.
Do you know if the Mercedes Sanctioned Background Oil Consumption Rate of about 1 QT per 1000mi is still true of the synthetic?
Also, Bucky is in the shop today getting Swaybars put on, Ed's braided steel brake lines, brake fluid flush, brake fluid replaced with Castrol GTR DOT4, trans flush + filter, diff flush + filter, radiator flush + fill, Power Steering flush + fill.
I'm not sure I'm ready for how different it is going to be :P
#307
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*cringe* Oh boy... you're brave. The Iffy Boob chains (or similar) are a risky place to take any vehicle you care about. I think they mostly specialize in stripping oil pan drain plug threads. If you don't have the time (or place) to do it yourself, I'd find a local German car shop and pay the additional cost. Or invest in a Topsider, where you don't even need to remove the drain plug! (Changing the filter is still messy on models with spin-on filters though, but I think yours has a cartridge filter).
Most likely the flush-in-a-can.... it's a quart of strong solvents, but you risk breaking piston rings, scoring cylinder walls, or damaging bearings. Those kind of failures are rare, but I sure wouldn't take the risk. That's why the instructions say in big capital letters to not drive the car with the flush in the engine, and not to increase RPM's above idle.
Bah! The official MB line is that a quart per 600 miles is acceptable, or some other ridiculous BS like that, so they don't have to pay for replacement engines under warranty. In the real world, a good engine will go 5kmi or more per quart. In the 2-3k range isn't great but it's not bad. At 1kmi per quart, you either have some serious leaks, or it's consuming it somehow (valve guides or seals). Consumption may get worse simply by using thin oil... in general, if the engine uses oil, you want to run a thicker oil, like a 10W-40, 15W-40, or 15W-50. The thicker viscosity can help slow down the consumption, but the proper fix is to replace the worn seals / guides / etc.
Ooooo, cool! I can't find any info on Castrol GTR... are you sure that is the correct name? Replacing fluids is always a good idea. You should definitely notice a difference with the swaybars - much less body roll.
Most likely the flush-in-a-can.... it's a quart of strong solvents, but you risk breaking piston rings, scoring cylinder walls, or damaging bearings. Those kind of failures are rare, but I sure wouldn't take the risk. That's why the instructions say in big capital letters to not drive the car with the flush in the engine, and not to increase RPM's above idle.
Also, Bucky is in the shop today getting Swaybars put on, Ed's braided steel brake lines, brake fluid flush, brake fluid replaced with Castrol GTR DOT4, trans flush + filter, diff flush + filter, radiator flush + fill, Power Steering flush + fill. I'm not sure I'm ready for how different it is going to be :P
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#308
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Well, my father trusts this specific Jiffy Lube because he knows some of the people who work there.
I know I need valve guides/seals, but I was going to save the kind of engine R&R for such a time as when I can afford to have it built to the AMG 3.6l specification.
Castrol GTR is source misattribution, it is Castrol LMA fluid. DOT4+ I'd call it. Higher boiling point than DOT4 mandates, etc.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7024043
Turns out the lines I got from Ed don't fit and the shop decided that I needed new lines so OEM lines have been purchased for 40$ a pop. Pisses me off because that is about what a set of braided steel lines would have run me. Oh well.
They also decided water pump needed replacing especially since they were doing the serpentine belt at the same time. Reduced labor cost :\
I know I need valve guides/seals, but I was going to save the kind of engine R&R for such a time as when I can afford to have it built to the AMG 3.6l specification.
Castrol GTR is source misattribution, it is Castrol LMA fluid. DOT4+ I'd call it. Higher boiling point than DOT4 mandates, etc.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7024043
Turns out the lines I got from Ed don't fit and the shop decided that I needed new lines so OEM lines have been purchased for 40$ a pop. Pisses me off because that is about what a set of braided steel lines would have run me. Oh well.
They also decided water pump needed replacing especially since they were doing the serpentine belt at the same time. Reduced labor cost :\
#309
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Castrol GTR is source misattribution, it is Castrol LMA fluid. DOT4+ I'd call it. Higher boiling point than DOT4 mandates, etc.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7024043
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7024043
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#310
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$40 EACH? Ouch, ouch, ouch. Next time, order a set of the WRXtra s/s braided hoses, $100 shipped for all four, and they fit properly. I have 'em on my cars - just make sure you specify the 17mm hex fitting on the front hoses. When you do the big brake kit, swap the hoses too. ![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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Yeah, I don't mind that. I just wished they had asked me so I could have ordered the stuff from Rust @ BuyMBParts for cheaper. Oh well.
#311
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Oh, there are a number of better DOT4 spec fluids, but the cost starts to get crazy if you're not on the racetrack. The Castrol LMA or Valvoline is good stuff for street use. Ate SuperBlue or Type 200 Gold are the next step up, and are the last semi-affordable fluid. Everything after that is more of a racetrack-only luxury. I added a worksheet in my brake spreadsheet with fluid specs... just put the LMA in there last night, but haven't loaded the new version to my website yet.
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Last edited by AMGDave; 03-04-2010 at 03:32 PM.
#313
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Brett..
I doubt any "modern" Merc wheel will be a direct fit to the 124 hub...
Sparco and a few other aftermarket companies make the "DTM LOOK" wheel and probably offer the hub adapter for the 124.
http://www.saferacer.com/sparco/stee...FQuB5QodTnBLNw
You will no longer have your air bag but who cares...
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Ed A.
P.S.
Finally got the Black Series ...
Can't wait for the C124TTWB to be finished and do a "older brother-younger brother" photo shoot !!!
![](http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/CLK016.jpg)
![](http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/CLK014.jpg)
#314
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Brett..
I doubt any "modern" Merc wheel will be a direct fit to the 124 hub...
Sparco and a few other aftermarket companies make the "DTM LOOK" wheel and probably offer the hub adapter for the 124.
http://www.saferacer.com/sparco/stee...FQuB5QodTnBLNw
You will no longer have your air bag but who cares...
![Stick Out Tongue](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Ed A.
P.S.
Finally got the Black Series ...
Can't wait for the C124TTWB to be finished and do a "older brother-younger brother" photo shoot !!!
The Smart wheel is really quite exceptional in feel. It has the DTM style grips, tight radius, and a really soft/grippy perforated covering.
I know I can get a w210 or w202 wheel, but I'm not sure if I can do other cars from around that year range.
#316
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Do you know if it would work with the RDMTek upgraded strut towers?
Also, I don't have a benzworld account, do you think you could ask him for me?
And also, I can't see his email address
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Thanks,
Brett
#317
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Incredibly tempting. I think that might be a good thing to buy eventually :P
Do you know if it would work with the RDMTek upgraded strut towers?
Also, I don't have a benzworld account, do you think you could ask him for me?
And also, I can't see his email address
Can you send me it?
Thanks,
Brett
Do you know if it would work with the RDMTek upgraded strut towers?
Also, I don't have a benzworld account, do you think you could ask him for me?
And also, I can't see his email address
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Thanks,
Brett
It's inhabited by a more serious group of Merc enthusiasts...
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#318
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I have the strut brace on one of my 124's. It's a nice piece, but it's more bling than functional. The 124 chassis is already pretty stiff so the brace doesn't add much more. The effect is similar to going up one size in sway bar thickness. Mine is a Wiecher's bar, btw, and it will not work with the RDM TEK front strut mounts. I'm using it with Meyle HD strut mounts.
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#319
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I have the strut brace on one of my 124's. It's a nice piece, but it's more bling than functional. The 124 chassis is already pretty stiff so the brace doesn't add much more. The effect is similar to going up one size in sway bar thickness. Mine is a Wiecher's bar, btw, and it will not work with the RDM TEK front strut mounts. I'm using it with Meyle HD strut mounts.
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I guess I'll save that 200+ for the H&R Sports for now. Those will be more effective, correct?
#321
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I'm not liking having my car unbalanced right now, so I figure might as well get those worn bushings replaced and get the rear sways in so I can feel a bit more balanced.
My car feels like this now:
![](http://www.cartoonstock.com/lowres/epa0128l.jpg)
#322
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![](http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/Saijin_Naib/m104_wtfux.png)
Can anyone tell me what the indicated parts are, if they are available, and whether or not I could put these on my m104 in my driveway.
I've got a pretty complete socket set and standard tools (knives, solder, hammers, wrenches) but nothing to weld with. Oh, also a breaker bar (about 3" long).
#323
Intake box on the very left side...I would guess the 2nd left one points to possibly the MAS.
Bottom two are the coolant hoses that go from the radiator -> pump and pump -> head. I believe on the 103, that bottom hose is actually metal, but it seems on the 104 it is hose.
I don't own a 104 though
Bottom two are the coolant hoses that go from the radiator -> pump and pump -> head. I believe on the 103, that bottom hose is actually metal, but it seems on the 104 it is hose.
I don't own a 104 though
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#324
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Thanks man. Interesting intake box, it is VERY different from my m104 one. Also, the far right arrow intrigues me. What is that?
Question:
Air filter has oil on it and some black areas. When I flex/shake it, crap falls out. Time to replace?
Should I bother with K&N and risk debris entering my engine at the cost of freer flow or not?
Question:
Air filter has oil on it and some black areas. When I flex/shake it, crap falls out. Time to replace?
Should I bother with K&N and risk debris entering my engine at the cost of freer flow or not?
#325
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
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Thanks man. Interesting intake box, it is VERY different from my m104 one. Also, the far right arrow intrigues me. What is that?
Question:
Air filter has oil on it and some black areas. When I flex/shake it, crap falls out. Time to replace?
Should I bother with K&N and risk debris entering my engine at the cost of freer flow or not?
Question:
Air filter has oil on it and some black areas. When I flex/shake it, crap falls out. Time to replace?
Should I bother with K&N and risk debris entering my engine at the cost of freer flow or not?
What M104-24V do you have...early or late...
I'm assuming early if your engine looks different then the pic you posted.
The early M104 has the Bosch KE-Jetronic III CIS-E and the intake looks exactly like the M103-12V.
The later model picture uses the Bosch HFM injection system.
Extreme right is the intake runner assembly.
Parts are not compatible.
K&N will not let any more debris into the engine then the OEM will...
Your filter should not be oil stained and nothing should fall out of it..
Appears like you're getting crankcase stuff sucked into your air filter housing...
Check your crankcase ventilation system...
Ed A.