lol.. Or if you get bitten by a spider in they car they may help you to become a super hero
So, wich subs and amp combo would you get?
I'm thinking subz and I want opinions!
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From: Long Beach, Ca
lots of cars
I thought it had three 10" inch subs....radiators are basically subs without the magnet and are not powered...when the main sub goes up and down it also pushes these other two subs..
The correct term is passive radiators...check this picture out..
one on the right is the subwoofer and the left is another subwoofer without the magnet or motor that is just pushed by the main sub..
The correct term is passive radiators...check this picture out..
one on the right is the subwoofer and the left is another subwoofer without the magnet or motor that is just pushed by the main sub..
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Jul 20, 2006 at 03:58 PM.
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From: OC California
'92 300E
Originally Posted by YNVDIZW124
I thought it had three 10" inch subs....radiators are basically subs without the magnet and are not powered...when the main sub goes up and down it also pushes these other two subs..
The correct term is passive radiators...
The correct term is passive radiators...
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From: Seattle
1990 300ce
nope, you don't want to do that because the airspace required for 3 subs is very different than the airspace required for one sub with 2 passive radiators.
Passive radiators sound much like a ported box. The don't sound like a sealed enclosure because the radiators move, unlike a sealed enclosure where the sides of the enclosure are solid. When the radiators move when the subwoofer hits, it does not have as much of an effect on the pressure inside the enclosure, which means that the subwoofer doesn't sound as "quick" since the back pressure doesn't pull the cone back as quickly.
Basically, these setups are space-efficient ported boxes with one subwoofer. The enclosure would need to be much larger if they were three real subs.
Passive radiators sound much like a ported box. The don't sound like a sealed enclosure because the radiators move, unlike a sealed enclosure where the sides of the enclosure are solid. When the radiators move when the subwoofer hits, it does not have as much of an effect on the pressure inside the enclosure, which means that the subwoofer doesn't sound as "quick" since the back pressure doesn't pull the cone back as quickly.
Basically, these setups are space-efficient ported boxes with one subwoofer. The enclosure would need to be much larger if they were three real subs.
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From: OC California
'92 300E
Originally Posted by Bigpete123
does the infinity setup have a built-in amplifier? otherwise this isn't an apples-to-apples comparison.
Yes it does, and I belive it's 200 or 250 watts
Either way, they are clearly different options in alot of ways.
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From: Kirkland, WA
500E Signal Rot
I like the Basslinks very much, they are space efficient and hit hard. Before I instaled this, I put a Obcon bandpass cabinet with two JL Audio 10w1's in my trunk, although it hit hard also, it takes up allot of space and getting at your spare tire or hauling any groceries is difficult. What suprised me was how much bass actually gets into the cabin without the need for cutting any vents in the rear deck. I took a different approach in my 190, utlizing a Basslink with a single 10" sub and single passive radiator, vented into the cabin through the first aid kit opening.
Anyway, this Basslink T, utilizes a single 10" Infinity sub and two passive radiators. It has a internal 250 watt amplifier and accepts either low level inputs or high level inputs (you can tap off of your rear speakers to get a signal) so it is very easy to install and connect and for those of you with the battery in the trunk, its easy to run power/ground as well.
I am very satisfied with this item.
Anyway, this Basslink T, utilizes a single 10" Infinity sub and two passive radiators. It has a internal 250 watt amplifier and accepts either low level inputs or high level inputs (you can tap off of your rear speakers to get a signal) so it is very easy to install and connect and for those of you with the battery in the trunk, its easy to run power/ground as well.
I am very satisfied with this item.
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From: OC California
'92 300E
It has a internal 250 watt amplifier and accepts either low level inputs or high level inputs (you can tap off of your rear speakers to get a signal) so it is very easy to install and connect and for those of you with the battery in the trunk, its easy to run power/ground as well.
I am very satisfied with this item.
I am very satisfied with this item.
Sounds good! I think I have been sold on this system!
You say it has low level and high level inputs... does that mean not only I can tap off the rear speakers but also RCA it directly to my reciever?
Last edited by SNSMBZ W124; Jul 22, 2006 at 01:49 AM.
I found this setup for $300 on ebay!
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From: Kirkland, WA
500E Signal Rot
With the internal amplifier of the Basslink, you can use EITHER the high level inputs (speaker level) which also allows the unit to turn on, when you turn your stereo on, thus eliminating the need for a remote turn on lead. Although, I did try this on my 190e and it behaved strangly, didn't like it. The low level inputs are regular rca type inputs from a aftermarket headunit, the prefered method for connection IMO.
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From: Long Beach, Ca
lots of cars
hey SNSMBZ let me see if next week i can hook you up with a system for cheap. There are other cheaper brands but i do trust power acoustik... i used to have the fire and ice series and ghotic series in my last benz and they hit hard...I would stay away from audiobahns subs!!
Oh yeah not all power acoustik amps are good the older models handle the rated power not those new ones..
Oh yeah not all power acoustik amps are good the older models handle the rated power not those new ones..
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From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
1994 E320 Estate Alpine Green/Cream Beige(dads) 1978 240D Sedan Pastel Blue/Blue MBTex (Mine)
I just ordered a Hifonics 300x2 RMS amp and a single Alpine Type R 12. I got the amp and sub off some website called Techronics, and including the amp kit and shipping it cost me less than 400$ (no box though, custom built one into the floor, no more spare tire, just a cell and AAA LOL) but that setup hits really hard in my car (1978 240D). I'd reccomend checking out their website.
Just my random and sometimes very incoherent thoughts
-Zach
Just my random and sometimes very incoherent thoughts
-Zach
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From: marlboro, nj
Mercedes benz 1991 300ce(RIP), now an 89 300ce
2phast, i realize this is an old thread but any chance that you have a db rating on the basslink? my rockfords in a big *** box aint working any more...but i like my subs real loud
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From: STL
95 e320...sold the rest
i used to have 1 12" audiobanh 1206t flame sub with the power acoustic 1600 watt gothic series. Now, i know the amp really isnt pushing 1600 at 2 ohms. Maybe 7-800 rms...bridged, and maybe 4-500 per channel...but that wasnt loud enough for me.
So when i got my benz...i went out and bought a hifonics brutus 1606d amp. Running 1600 watts at a 1 ohm load. I have 2 12" kicker L7's ( wired down to 1 ohm). I havent installed them yet...how do you think they will sound.
Oh, by the way, i'm removing my rear deck speakers for a port into the cabin...
So when i got my benz...i went out and bought a hifonics brutus 1606d amp. Running 1600 watts at a 1 ohm load. I have 2 12" kicker L7's ( wired down to 1 ohm). I havent installed them yet...how do you think they will sound.
Oh, by the way, i'm removing my rear deck speakers for a port into the cabin...
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Atlanta
1983 240D, 1989 300E
Has anyone ever cut the area under the first aid kit, and designed a box so the subs fire directly into the cabin off the rear windscreen. I have been thinking about this for a summer project. I was thinking of a single JL W7 13".
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From: marlboro, nj
Mercedes benz 1991 300ce(RIP), now an 89 300ce
