1990 300E Stalling problems, please help.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: New Jersey
SLS AMG | S65 AMG | GL550
1990 300E Stalling problems, please help.
Hi. We have a 1990 300E (3.0) thats seems to randomly stall at different times. Its usually when standing still for a few minutes (bank drive thru) and the when we decide to move she quits.
Sometimes her rpms fall to below 500 and she shakes a bit. Feeding gas, even light amounts, stops this. I personally think it is the fuel pump or pressure, but people seem to tell me its a sensor...any ideas?
Thanks,
Erik
Sometimes her rpms fall to below 500 and she shakes a bit. Feeding gas, even light amounts, stops this. I personally think it is the fuel pump or pressure, but people seem to tell me its a sensor...any ideas?
Thanks,
Erik
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 7
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From: Hong Kong
300CE24
Hi,
My car of same year and probably the same engine (3.0l in-line 6 24-valves) is having similar problem about a month ago. Unlike yours, mine doesn't have the falling rev and the shaking.
I am quite new to Merc but I've heard the OVP relay is notorious of causing problems to the engine control computer. Do you think it a likely culprit of our problem?
My car of same year and probably the same engine (3.0l in-line 6 24-valves) is having similar problem about a month ago. Unlike yours, mine doesn't have the falling rev and the shaking.
I am quite new to Merc but I've heard the OVP relay is notorious of causing problems to the engine control computer. Do you think it a likely culprit of our problem?
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03 S 500--94 BMW 325i--01 GSXR 1000
I don't even know what the OVP relay is!! I'll tell you one thing I was under their today for almost an hour and I can't find anything. These cars have like 100 or so relays and this and that what-cha ma call it's. I'm a little frustrated with it today. But over all Gotta love it! Any input on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Hong Kong
300CE24
The Over Voltage Protection relay is by its name a device protecting the ECU and may as well other circuits from excessive voltage. Quite a no. of users described this guy as notorious to have caused problems, mostly start-up problems. I am not sure if it is the one to blame for my occasional stalling problem.
Someone told me this guy is under the box behind the battery. I have yet to locate it.
Someone told me this guy is under the box behind the battery. I have yet to locate it.
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Super Member
Joined: Sep 2002
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The OVP relay does have a service bulletin on it. The problem part number escapes me but I think it was a Seimens part made in Australia. Call a dealer. Anyway the solder joints inside it break. If your any good with a soldering gun just take it appart (pretty easy) and re-solder the bad joint. I did and it work out fine. New part is about $90.
Good luck
Good luck
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: New Jersey
SLS AMG | S65 AMG | GL550
Update:
Well, I put on about 2,000 miles on the car (it usually sat for weeks at a time) and it has not stalled once. I think it was that we really never drove the car (10,000 miles in 3 years) and that when she did run for long periods of times she gave up. The car does eat oil like its going out of style...atleast 1qt a week, but other then that its running smoothly. The idle sometimes drops and shakes, but no stalls. I canceled the mechanic appointment because the problem went away, but if it comes back I will post again.
Thanks,
Erik
Well, I put on about 2,000 miles on the car (it usually sat for weeks at a time) and it has not stalled once. I think it was that we really never drove the car (10,000 miles in 3 years) and that when she did run for long periods of times she gave up. The car does eat oil like its going out of style...atleast 1qt a week, but other then that its running smoothly. The idle sometimes drops and shakes, but no stalls. I canceled the mechanic appointment because the problem went away, but if it comes back I will post again.
Thanks,
Erik
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Mercedes 280TE W124
My 1993 280TE also has the same stalling problem - I'm taking it to a specialist next week to get it looked at, but it looks to be the throttle housing may be letting in too much air, this can be cleaned as I have had it done once already - but once on the way out its a nasty big bill.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1
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From: Europe
MB 300CE
Hello,
I had quit the same problem.
Engine starting only when cold and then it dies when it comes to normal temperature.
The only way to keep it running is to depress the accelerator, when released the engine stops.
I solved the problem changing the distributor rotor and the distributor cap.
They were completely used and burned inside.
Now the engine is running like silk, no more rough idle, no more engine dies, and no more long crank before engine starts.
Hope this writing will help
Regards
I had quit the same problem.
Engine starting only when cold and then it dies when it comes to normal temperature.
The only way to keep it running is to depress the accelerator, when released the engine stops.
I solved the problem changing the distributor rotor and the distributor cap.
They were completely used and burned inside.
Now the engine is running like silk, no more rough idle, no more engine dies, and no more long crank before engine starts.
Hope this writing will help
Regards
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3
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260E and S500 Coupe
Stalling
Sounds exactly like the problem I had on my 260E. Would stall at stoplights. Also if parked for short stop it was impossible to start unless I let it set for a few minutes. Solved completely by replacing the fuel relay module. (located behind battery in engine compartment). A 200$ item but solved the prob
Cheers, Larry
Cheers, Larry
Almost a Member!
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: san francisco bay area
300e
stalling car
hey man,
My car would die ramdomly, have a weak idle. I took it to the dealer, they replaced 2 fuel pumps, ovp relay, idle controller- over 2k. Their work fixed nothing. I was so pissed I sued them and got my money back. Anywho, I fixed the problem by replacing the fuel pump relay. Behind the batt is a rack o fuses The first is the fuel relay, behind it is the kickdown relay. Good luck
the shemdogg
My car would die ramdomly, have a weak idle. I took it to the dealer, they replaced 2 fuel pumps, ovp relay, idle controller- over 2k. Their work fixed nothing. I was so pissed I sued them and got my money back. Anywho, I fixed the problem by replacing the fuel pump relay. Behind the batt is a rack o fuses The first is the fuel relay, behind it is the kickdown relay. Good luck
the shemdogg
Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 81
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From: Chicago
90 300e and B5 S4
If your car is drinking oil like its going out of style and fouling the plugs or running ruff, then you probably need new valve stem seals (very common problem on higher mileage mercedes 300e). Pull the spark plugs out and examine them for oil build and or excessive carbon. Changing valve stem seals on the inline 6 cyl. 12 valve engine is really not that difficult.
Dan
Dan
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8
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From: Tampa, Florida USA
88' 300CE, 02' ML500, 65' Triumph TR4A, 78' Datsun 280Z
Had a similar problem even after replacing the OVP thing and fuel pump relay - lots of conjecture from several Benz gurus, but before taking the their next advice to replace the ignition module (>$1,000), I took it to Mercedes Benz of Tampa where the problem was diagnosed and cured by replacing the timing sensor.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Bellevue, NE
1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold) 2007 CLK350 Cabriolet 2014 ML550
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 10
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From: Mankato, MN 56001
1991 300E 4Matic
please
i have checked the OVP relay but no connections were loose
i have replaced the spark plugs + wires
rotor (was broken)+distridutor cap
fuel filter
air filter
the problem is not solved do you have any other idea
please help me
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 1
From: Bellevue, NE
1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold) 2007 CLK350 Cabriolet 2014 ML550
You can't really check an OVP for loose connections; you just replace it if you suspect it's bad.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 375
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From: Toronto Ont Canada
GL350
I didn't want to spend $700 for a new one and couldn't find a used one so just took it a part separated the 2 panels and reheated all the soldering joints (appr 200)
Sold the car 2 years later and it is still running with the same ECU.
Good luck!
