Brian_I.

Wow, this is my first time in the W124 forum. *looksaround* I like what you guys have done with the place.

Okay, enough fooling around. Here's the deal guys, I am in desperate need of a 7-passenger vehicle and I don't want anything new. I thought the W124 was a great choice after watching this video and seeing how it stood up to the test of time and then some.

I have been looking around the classified boards and found a few (most recently a '92 with 168k miles and 1 owner in good condition). I was wondering if there are any common issues I should look for. Any advice on specific years and what not. I don't care about any exterior upgrades on the later years (although the lights on the last MY look really hot) just worrying about reliability and stuff. This will be mostly a kid-hauler so it will probably be driven about 25 miles a week at most. Tired of the kids messing up the interior on my other cars.

Thanks.

Brian_I.

Okay, after doing a little research I've found some things to look for. Any others?

1. Insulation on Engine Wiring Harness
2. Leaky Head Gasket
3. Climate Control Button (?)
4. A/C Issues
5. Transmission problems from complete stop

CDP

Driveshaft flex disks - Expect the front ones to last about 80-100K miles and the backs to last at least 150K miles. First symptom is clunking sound while coasting to a stop. Center bearing supports can wear out, causing droning vibrations at cruising speeds.


Climate Controls - Most climate control systems (ACC) on MBs do not seem to be as long-lived as the counterpart American systems. Don’t know why, but since most Mercedes systems are automatic, an extra layer of complexity has been added to the mix. ACC systems seem to need service at least every 50K miles. A/C parts that tend to wear out are: Compressors, Pushbutton Control Units and control relays. Non-operating aux fan can cause compressor failure. In most cases, just a coolant recharge is all that is needed. Many of the flaps controlling venting are activated by vacuum elements that tend to develop leaks at about 150K to 200K miles. Blower motors typically last about 150K miles. The brushes wear out and the first symptom is intermittent operation. Squealing is caused by the bearings in need of lubrication – use ATF.


Shocks/Struts - They tend to be more robust and last much longer than people expect, which may lead to unnecessary replacements. Expect to get at least 125K miles or more out of a set of shocks and struts.


Gas Engines - Expect to replace the valve seals at 125-150K miles on gas engines. First symptom is increased oil use. Head jobs are typical at 180-200K miles. Bottom ends should last at least 250K miles as long as oil is changed regularly. Expect oil leak problems on the 190E 2.6/300E/E320 engine at the head gasket, front timing cover and valve cover gasket. Timing chains and tensioners (and maybe rails) should be replaced at 100K miles. Owners of 91 or older 4.2 liter V-8s should especially heed this advice or your engine could be trashed. Big $$$$


Diesels Engines - Most of the Mercedes diesels are very robust and do not require much internal service for 250K miles. Timing chain “stretch” should be monitored and changed if beyond 4 degrees retarded. Chains generally are shorter and last longer in diesels. Expect a set of injectors to last at least 100K miles and glow plugs typically last 75K miles. Older diesels (in 123s) require valve adjustments every 15K miles. Vacuum pumps last 125-150K miles. Failures in certain 123 vacuum pumps can result in oil being sucked into ALL the vacuum lines. $$$$ to clean and replace all the lines.


Exhaust Systems - Tend to be more robust (and heavy!). Expect 100K miles at least. Keep the engine in tune and get longer life from the catalytic converter and the muffler. Rust is usually the culprit for failures.


Bushings - 150K miles is a good estimate. The rubber just gets hard or shrinks, resulting in excessive vibrations, squeaks, and harshness. This is one of the most neglected service items and yet it plays such a pivotal role in ride comfort.


Cruise Control (CC) - Is there anyone who has owned a Mercedes at least 5 years who has NOT had CC problems? Typically it is the amplifier under the dash that causes the most problems. The servo and the stalk switch can also cause problems. The amplifier tends to have solder joint cracks that cause intermittent operation, the typical first symptom of trouble. Make sure all linkages at the engine are cleaned and lubed with transmission fluid. There are testers that can quickly diagnose CC problems.


Motor Mounts - Typically last about 100K miles. First symptom is excessive vibration at idle. Mounts for diesels typically last less than their gas counterparts.


Hydraulic Suspensions - Nitrogen cells last about 75-100K miles. First symptom is very hard ride because hydraulic fluid permeates the nitrogen gas cells. Most other parts are robust, but make sure fluid is drained and filled at recommended intervals. Use only MB fluid. Older air suspension systems have characteristic sag as a first symptom and can be very expensive to maintain. 2000 S-Class? Too early to tell.


Airbags - There may be a sticker on your car that says to replace the airbag after 10 years. The change interval has been extended. Check with Dealer if unsure. NOT a DIY item.


Transmissions - B2 piston failure causes no forward gears but reverse works. Overhaul is usually not required in this case. Most transmissions last 150K miles or more. Some transmissions will go 250-300K miles without problems, assuming regular fluid/filter changes. 722.2/3 transmission flairing/hard shifts can be a misadjusted Bowden cable, vacuum modulator leakage or modulator out of adjustment. Long delays in engaging reverse can signal an overhaul is due, but if all else is OK, drive it until it fails.


Turbos - Can last the life of the car with proper care. Diesels with Trap Oxidizers can have catastrophic turbo failures. Check dealer for campaign to replace Traps and inspect /replace turbos for free.

Fuel Pumps/Fuel Pump Relays - The relays typically last about 100K miles. Carry a spare. Easy to replace. Fuel Pumps often last the life of the car. Fairly expensive but not hard to replace.


Diesel Fuel Injection Pumps - Typically last the life of the car. Expensive to have rebuilt or replaced.


Wheel Bearings - Not unusual to last life of the car if re-packed at 90,000-mile interval. Make sure grease levels are strictly maintained and runout is within specs. Don’t mix greases.


Brakes - Pad wear is too dependent on driving style. Fronts can last from 10K-60K miles.

Rear pads can last 30-70K miles. Front rotors last about 50K miles. Backs last longer. Do not have them turned; replace them. Original equipment is highly recommended. ABS systems are fairly robust, with exception of the sensors/wires at the hubs. First symptom is ABS activating when wheels aren’t sliding.


Cooling Systems - Plastic radiators crack at upper hose mount. Usually last only about 75K miles. All-metal radiators can last 100-150K miles. Fan clutches last about 100K miles. Water pumps last about 100K miles too. Thermostats last about 40-50K miles.


Electrical - Alternators last indefinitely but regulator brushes should be changed at about 100K miles. Bearings cause squeal. Regulators can fail but are cheap and easy to replace.

Fuses tend to corrode over time. Clean and or replace all fuses at regular intervals to prevent intermittent operation of electrical devices. Make sure battery posts and grounds are clean and connections are tight.

Brian_I.

Wow, thank you very much!

Now I'm scared to even look at the car. The one I'm looking at is a '92 and has 168,000 miles. Single owner who is an old wealthy lady in Pasadena. :p The son that is handling the sale says it has been well kept and was recently tuned and what not. It has been garage-kept and the interior is almost in perfect condition. He mentioned the third brake light is broken, not sure if that is a bulb or wiring. Also says the freon needs to be re-charged.

He's selling it for $4k so it's almost a steal. Planning on offering $3600 for it unless I see any signs of problems.

myfirstbenz

Get a model with a m103 that has been well maintained. I have driven both m104 and my m103 and the m103 feels better suited for the wagon since the vehicle is heavier and an m103 seems to me to develop its torque sooner than the m104 '94-95 which gitty up and goes over 50mph.

I also think that the 91? and earlier seats are more supportive than the newer. I prefer a firm but well designed driving position in a seat.

I love my 89 TE. Now with my new rims and tires, tint, euro HL's, new suspension parts, and catback exhaust, my car is very very comfortable and attractive even compared to modern cars...

NorCal124

You can also bypass all the issues of the M103 engine and opt for a diesel. They're great on gas, practically bullet proof, and they last forever. You can usually find a granny owned 300TE wagon for well under 5K and with pretty moderate milage.

neanderthal

great post chris

we should sticky that here labelled for new owners to read that first. then if anybody asks "what should i, ...." we can tell the to look right at the stickied thread first.

Brian_I.

Thank you for the added info on the different MY's and engines. I would love to see pics of your car with all of those mods. Funny thing is, this car is supposed to be just a kiddie-hauler but I'm getting the itch to mod it and I haven't even purchased it yet.

When I had my w208 I loved it and all I could do was think about what I wanted to do to it. Then after I sold it and bought the w211 I totally lost the desire to mod it other than change out the grill and a few small things. Now with this w124 I'm getting that feeling back again!

That could be good or bad depending on if you're asking me or my wife.

lkchris

Avoid 4-matic

Brian_I.

Okay...

94-95 Bad
Diesel Good
4-Matic Bad

myfirstbenz

Diesel not always good, the heads are known to have issues, and you can only find them new from MBZ. It was one of mercedes first aluminum head diesels. When I was shopping for my TE I was wanting a diesel, however with the fuel prices climbing and biodiesel taking off, these TD wagons are very very expensive for low mileage versions. I get 23mpg in my m103 TE, not bad.

I'll convert my TE to a new CDI diesel in the next few years, but until then, the m103 is a great motor.

I'd be happy to email you pics of my TE which is mildly modded.

Brian_I.

Okay guys, wish me luck! I'm on my way out the door and will meet up with the seller this afternoon. When I return I may just be the newest w124 owner. Hope all goes well!

Ooohhh, pics would be much appreciated! junk 212 at comcast dot net

Thanks!