shdoug

My car has almost 162,000 miles. Everything works perfectly (except the vanity mirror lights), but the body shows its age. It has been in a couple wrecks that were repaired, there's a small spot of rust on the back by the deck lid due to poor repair of the body damage, scratches, dings, the usual stuff. It has been repainted and there are small spots where the clear coat is coming off. A broker told me it was only worth $2500. I can't believe that because when I see other $2500 cars they usually don't even look like something I would want to borrow, much less own.

The rear flex disc (guibo) is the coupler between the drive shaft and the differential. The front couple the shaft to the transmission. If it is wearing out it can make a thump when putting the car in gear, or certain driving conditions. It has nothing to do with the rear suspension. Here is a pic of the part. It's $100.00

http://mercedes.thebenzbin.com/?year...ield22222.y=11

Rio Z Lander

my car dose this when im in drive only in low rpms once i go again it stops but as of a few weeks ago my car died at a stop light it starts runs fine but it will do this some times.*sighs* and my driver side door flys open some times that aside im woundering if i should get a tuneup on the car or let it go for now. it has not been doing it as much since the belt on it was replaced and new trans fluid was put in but it will still do it some times.

thanks dad for puting my car through hell you jack *** total money spent on this car has been 15k in repairs by my dad rebuilt motor in 06 new brakes in 07 new belt last week. new strut work and many other stuff he payed for be for he passed it down to me now it is my problem.

Brian McL

One exhaust valve is $42.50.....The book time for remove and replace head is 12 hours. But this includes resurface/grinding......which you may or may not want to do. As long as everything else is OK and you don't plan on keep the car for ever just do the one valve (or any other that look bad) and put it back together. So, do the math. 12 x $100 +- plus 6 x 42.50 = $1455 plus head gasket set. That is the shop rate. You save all the labour ($1200) by doing it yourself....and have some fun too!

WDBEA30D

Thanks for the advice, Brian McL--that may be a little more than I want to handle right now. I mean, I've done some minor stuff like fix the power headrests in my BMWs I had, attached/removed trim pieces; I also swapped out the headlights (assemblies themselves, not just bulbs) in my 528e for better ones, etc.

However, mechanical work like that is still more than I'm inclined to attempt. Plus the car would be out of service for QUITE A FEW days if I was to try this work myself, which I can't afford. (Of course it could be out of service forever if the engine gives out). And I'd end up paying even a competent friend many hundreds of dollars anyway to do the work given the amount of time involved. Anyone I know well enough to help me for free I wouldn't trust to work on the engine any more than I trust myself.

I'd rather pull together ~$1,000-1,200 to have a new engine put in (I'd be willing to part with the car for several days to have that work done). That is, of course, if I decide to invest in this car. I've found engines on eBay as cheap as $400 with 120-130K, and got a response from junkyarddog.com regarding an engine with only 61K on it for $995--that with a 6 month warranty as well. Of course, I'm looking at ~$500 to install, so we're getting close to what I paid for the entire car. And subtracting from what I'd spend on a new car...

Well, thanks for the advice--just too scared to attempt the work myself right now. This is my only transportation for the time being, so I don't want to risk screwing it up prematurely!

WDBEA30D

shdoug,

btw that is total baloney that your car is worth $2,500 (http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/Pric...izConditions=0).

I'll bet if you listed it for $3,500 you'd sell it in short order. And you could surely get another $1,000 if you're patient. Personally I'd rather get a '93-'94 LS 400 for $4,500, but for the die-hard Mercedes enthusiast, you still can't touch a W210 E-Class for that money, and '95 is the last year for the W124. I mean, it's a '95, not an '87!

So the guibo may be worn, but if it has nothing to do with the car swaying, I couldn't care less right now. My car doesn't thump or anything when going into gear or at any other time. I can accept that this annoying [hazardous?] swaying may be due to a rear suspension issue--but if that's the case, why is it so sensitive to driveline stresses while driving in a straight line? I mean, how come I can yaw the rear of the car back and forth just by hitting or letting off the gas while driving down a straight road at 60 mph?

shdoug

Thanks for the info on my car. I feel better about the value and that seems more reasonable than $2500. It even went up to $4795 when I added the CD changer and Telescoping wheel. You stole yours for $1700! I don't think there is a lot of difference in price from '86 to '95 with the 6 cylinder engines. The broker was going by what they sell for at auction. He was showing me actual sales of cars like mine going for $2,000 on an auction website. 6 months prior he told me he would find one for me for $7000. Sounds fishy, doesn't it? Maybe I should go into car sales if I can make $5K on one sale. If I sold a car a month I'd be doing well.

Here is a pdf of the rear axle assembly and "Torque Strut". There sure are a lot of parts that could wear out and move. I can't even tell what everything is. The Torque Strut looks like it could be the culprit, to me.

Brian McL

The 300E is worth what you are willing to take for it. I just sold a 1990 for $6750....with 350K Kilometers on it.....but it was well maintained. And with regards to putting in a replacement engine, you may just be jumping from the pan into the fire. If you are going to spend money then spend it on the engine in your car now. At last it is a known quantity....good oil pressure and temp with no weird banging from the main bearings. I doubt that you will find a 300E engine (M103) at a wreckers with 67K miles on it. Very unlikely. Just replace the valve!....and YES, it is worth fixing esp. if the body is in good shape.

shdoug

His engine has like 180,000 miles on it and it must be choking on carbon buildup. It got a piece stuck in the valve, cleared it, did it again, and burned the valve. It's likely to happen again. The carbon could have caused other problems, too. This engine could be a lemon, or driven at 30 mph all its life. The M103 is supposed to be indestructible, but this one wasn't. Don't you think it would be anti-cost effective to put $1400 into an engine that is KNOWN to be PROBLEMATIC than to spend the same or less on what is likely to be a better engine?

Brian McL

There is no guarantee (forget the yard guarantee) the replacement is any better, in fact it is unknown and could be worse. Carbon does affect the valves...fix the existing engine valve train and you are left with an engine you know is GOOD on the top end. If the guy is going to spent the money at least let him spend it on something he knows is done...not a "pig in a pock". To buy an engine that comes from a wrecker in the "hope" it may be better is like spending good money after bad. It really is a no-brainer.....start fixing the issues as they present themselves...eventually you will have a car you know is good and reliable...and one he may even want to keep. Otherwise you are always going to be wondering if it will last another year or so....but then again the casinos are full of people who like to take a chance!

WDBEA30D

Brian McL, I feel that I'm getting your message/bias coming through pretty strongly, and I respect your feelings. I sure can't say that I agree or disagree--I guess that's why I'm on the fence about this, and again I appreciate your input.

I don't have a digital camera (my profile pic was taken with my camera phone) but when I get or borrow one I'll take some pictures of the car. On overall condition, I'd give my car a 3 out of 10. I'm pretty good at detailing cars, so this one looks good enough to get compliments from average-joe's when it's clean. However, the rear part of the hood is serioiusly hazed where the clearcoat is cracking, and there's similar deterioration on the roof. The paint on the top of the trunk is scratched to hell, although with the Klasse sealant glaze and 3 coats of wax I put on the car, any surface looks decent from an angle vs. looking straight into the paint. The sides are hazed/fading in places. Inside, the MB-Tex is in decent shape with no tears, although the seats are collapsing the way older M-B seats like to do. The plastic and vinyl is good, the wood trim around the shifter is in poor shape (chipped and cracking clearcoat). Electronics work fine, except for the sunroof (broken cable?) and the driver's side rear window (apparently the regulator). And the car needs an alignment, has the queer rear suspension swaying, and of course the misfire issue. And the engine has near 185K on it now, although you're right--it runs cool and maintains correct oil pressure.

My point is that I'm not 100% sure I want to invest ANY money or time to fix this now, while I've been admittedly fishing for a cheap/easy solution with this thread. You all know I could pour WAY more money into fixing up this 20 year-old fair-at-best 300E (with I'm sure only lackluster results) than I'd need to get a pristine '90-'93 300E with much lower miles. I don't like to think this way, but if I'm going to drive a 300E into the ground, at least this one was already halfway there when I bought it. I view this as much less tragic than someone trashing a really nice 300E which has a lot more going for it.

btw, Brian McL, I'm interested in your experiences with the '98 E320. Do you feel it's a good car, and how does it compare to the W124 in reliability/durability? I'm more of a BMW person, but the W210 is the #1 newer Mercedes I'd buy (not counting the W140 S-Class which I love but know can be fraught with problems).

shdoug, thanks for the diagrams. I'll investigate that torque strut ASAP. I used to work with a dealer and attended dealer-only auctions all the time. (I bought my car from a private seller, though). Prices at these auctions are completely unpredictable. I've seen decent '90-'92 W124's actually sell for $500 when the seller was a large dealer auctioning trade-ins [selling everything regardless of price] and hardly any buyers happened to be in the lane to bid up the price. I've also seen '93-'94 1st gen. Lexus LS 400's push $6,000-7,000 ($1-2K above Blue Book) when lots of dealers crowded in the lane and were bidding on the same pristine vehicle. Your E320 could definitely sell for as little as $2,500 at such an auction. However, you'd be stupid to sell your car this way (not to mention unable to unless you're a dealer). If I were trying to get top dollar for your car, I'd list it for $4,995 on Autotrader.com ("run it till it sells"--you can have it sit on there forever), on your local craigslist.org (most of those buyers are looking for deals, but the listing is free), AND in your local paper (a more expensive proposition). I'd be shocked if you had to accept less than $3,800-4,000 to sell it.

And trust me, while you can make $2,000-5,000 off a single car flip as a dealer (you could get a 2002 S430 at auction for $22,000 and sell it for $28,000 to a customer, or steal a 1995 525i for $2,800 and sell it for $4,800), it's just as easy to pay good money for a car you didn't realize had a crippling problem, or not be able to buy a car at all because all the cars seem to be inexplicably selling for more than market price on that particular day. And don't get me started about trying to sell a good car at a price that is below Blue Book, and still have idiot potential buyers offer HALF of Book value--less even than what you paid for the car--because they have no idea what the car is worth. Or try to sell a nice car at a small or no profit and have no interest at all--for months. It's not as sweet as it sounds.

shdoug

^ Thanks for that information. I really appreciate the insight and it makes sense. I should check out Autotrader when I want to sell. I also think I would like the W210. I love the styling.

Brian McL

As I said earlier it is too bad you can't work on it yourself. Under the circumstances just drive it on 5 until it starts running on 4 or you sell it (or give it away). Re: the W210.....not my favorite car....mercedes really let the accounts have too much say in it's development. There are alot of body rusting problems. I think the W124 is the best car out there and if you can find one with no rust and a good maintenance history then hold on to it. The W140 is probably the best bang for the buck right now.....and cheap. The S500 would be the one to look for. The M119 engine is strong...but does have issues. The biggest thing you have going against you is that you don't work on your cars.......buy a book and tinker....it really is fun and you can save alot of money....but of course I assume that is something you would enjoy. If not, get a good paying job...but try and find a good 300E...just a great car!!!

shdoug

I agree that the W124 is a better car. I just worry about the rubber parts getting so old now. My fuel line was so rotted from age that it started leaking. What's next? If I found a rust free W210, couldn't it be a good car, too? Where do they start to rust? The ones I've looked looked at all looked solid, but I didn't crawl underneath.

WDBEA30D

Hmm..thanks for the info. While I may still invest in the misfiring problem, I think now there's a better than 80% chance that I'll do just what you said and drive the car as is until either I get a newer car (then I may GIVE this one to my best friend) or this car gives up completely before I get enough money for the new car (then I'll have to borrow!).

Brian McL, I do love the 140's. I've driven a 400SEL and a 500SEL (both with issues). The 500SEL especially impressed me--the power and authority of a German muscle car combined with the grace and space of a Boeing 747. I love the overwhelming presence of the stying and techo-overload of these cars, what with their vacuum-close doors and trunks, power-adjustable interior mirror, double-pane glass that looks like it's bulletproof, etc. I also like how they glide off in 2nd gear and don't even feel like their moving until you get up to 50 or so, at which point the car shifts to 3rd, still accelerating like a freight train.

However, I know of major $$$ wiring harness problems, vacuum pumps going out on on the door closers, double-pane glass shattering in hot conditions--and the 500SEL had an issue where the climate control would run nonstop on full fan speed even WITH THE KEY REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION and the car locked up from outside. Hitting "0" did nothing. This would continue until the battery died. I imagine this is typical of nightmarish electrical scenarios with these cars.

I prefer the W140, but thought the W210 would be more efficient and reliable--plus it's more modern, especially inside. Did not know about the rusting issues--I've never seen one with rust (and I live in Maryland). By the time I save $5,000-8,000 I'll be looking almost purely at 1997+ 5-Series and 1996+ 7-Series, but the W140 and W210 are top contenders if I was to stay loyal to the marque.

One more thing--I heard the 1992-1993 (but 1992 especially) W140's are prone to the most problems, and the 1995 and later ones are much better. Is there any truth to this? I've noticed that 1994's and 1995's are not much more expensive (if not cheaper) than 1992's and 1993's. I'd imagine M-B got everything well nailed-down by the time the 1997 editions came out, but for the $10,000-12,000 it takes to buy one of those I'd rather have a low-mileage ~1998 540i 6-speed.

WDBEA30D

P.S. Brian McL, your recommendation about buying a repair manual and tinkering with the car was not lost on me. I've felt inadequate about being a major car enthusiast (I know a huge amount about the features, model year changes, specs and car market) but having very little mechanical know-how for a long time now. I've got friends who know more, but I always feel bad enlisting them to help me with my car issues, which I always seem to have. Even if my car was mechanically perfect, I'd always find stuff to fix or make nicer.

While I feel fine messing with interior bits, bulbs, trim pieces and stuff like that, the engine and other mechanicals have just been too intimidating to me so far. I guess my confidence will build with experience.