becareful with subs
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1993 Mercedes 300e 4-matic (m103 motor)
becareful with subs
my roomte has an 88 300e. I put a pair of 10" pioneers in there for him. The subs were never turned up all the way nor ever had crazy bass. Just enough to compliment the music. Any ways after running the subs for about 2 weeks the soldier in the welds of the wiring in the fuel pump broke causing it not to start.
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95' AMG SeeThreeSix
I don't think the solder would break.....rather if the wire was stranded the strands are always the weakest at the point of the soldered joint, and this is assuming the tinning job before soldering them was ****ty.....I doubt bass alone was the cause of this, I lean to normal wear and tear. Is the plastic cover attached to the bottom of that car?
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1994 E320 Estate Alpine Green/Cream Beige(dads) 1978 240D Sedan Pastel Blue/Blue MBTex (Mine)
I was expecting to find a serious problem. Got me kinda intriqued for a good five seconds there, disapointing.
lol
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1994 E320 (current)
careful of subs
I know a guy who used the wrong tire pressure gage to check his air pressure on his 84 190E and his front calipers started sticking and he had to replace his entire front braking system. His car only had 290,000 miles and he was pissed. I am very careful when I check my tire pressure now.
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'95 E420 SE
on a more Serius note...how one mounts and ISOLATES the subs/enclosure from the chassis makes all the difference in a good install...especially big SPL cars. Most people convert their cars into a giant rattle-boxes because they hard mount them to the package tray or trunk floor. Poor form and brutally annoying to the people that have to hear your license plate eating through the rear panel at every stop light.
Despite bustin' on you for the solder/weld thing, I can attest to the fact that really hard hitting, rigidly mounted subs can/will break stuff. Especially old, brittle wiring and plastic bracketry. Better check everything...and get the sub enclosure isolated from the chassis with either soft mounts or felt pad or whatever you deem best.
Despite bustin' on you for the solder/weld thing, I can attest to the fact that really hard hitting, rigidly mounted subs can/will break stuff. Especially old, brittle wiring and plastic bracketry. Better check everything...and get the sub enclosure isolated from the chassis with either soft mounts or felt pad or whatever you deem best.
Last edited by ShanMan; 02-13-2008 at 11:03 AM.
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'87 300E
my roomte has an 88 300e. I put a pair of 10" pioneers in there for him. The subs were never turned up all the way nor ever had crazy bass. Just enough to compliment the music. Any ways after running the subs for about 2 weeks the soldier in the welds of the wiring in the fuel pump broke causing it not to start.
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Last edited by Dan_Audio Man; 02-13-2008 at 06:27 PM.
#22
Digging around ive found people put alot more then 2 10" pioneers..
wiring i wouldnt be worried about.
what i am worried about is that the rear speakers might get messed up because of the pressure in the from the subs. because theres nothing separating them from the trunk.
although this would take alot of bass to cause this kind of problem.
just a thought.
wiring i wouldnt be worried about.
what i am worried about is that the rear speakers might get messed up because of the pressure in the from the subs. because theres nothing separating them from the trunk.
although this would take alot of bass to cause this kind of problem.
just a thought.
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'87 300E
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2007 GL500, 2007 E280
on a more Serius note...how one mounts and ISOLATES the subs/enclosure from the chassis makes all the difference in a good install...especially big SPL cars. Most people convert their cars into a giant rattle-boxes because they hard mount them to the package tray or trunk floor. Poor form and brutally annoying to the people that have to hear your license plate eating through the rear panel at every stop light.
Despite bustin' on you for the solder/weld thing, I can attest to the fact that really hard hitting, rigidly mounted subs can/will break stuff. Especially old, brittle wiring and plastic bracketry. Better check everything...and get the sub enclosure isolated from the chassis with either soft mounts or felt pad or whatever you deem best.
Despite bustin' on you for the solder/weld thing, I can attest to the fact that really hard hitting, rigidly mounted subs can/will break stuff. Especially old, brittle wiring and plastic bracketry. Better check everything...and get the sub enclosure isolated from the chassis with either soft mounts or felt pad or whatever you deem best.
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