New calipers...

Last edited by YNVDIZW124; May 21, 2008 at 07:53 PM.
You may use C32/C55/CL500/C230 Sports.... the list goes on but I would use the C32 rotors and cyro treat them!
You might need to trim the steering knuckle but I would try to find an alternative and try to route the brake line differently with adapters and etc so you can avoid that.
Congrats on the new brakes too! It's gonna feel gooooooooooooood on the 300E.
or they may be 345mm from the s55 but im not sure?
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; May 22, 2008 at 08:45 PM.
You may use C32/C55/CL500/C230 Sports.... the list goes on but I would use the C32 rotors and cyro treat them!
You might need to trim the steering knuckle but I would try to find an alternative and try to route the brake line differently with adapters and etc so you can avoid that.
Congrats on the new brakes too! It's gonna feel gooooooooooooood on the 300E.
Great process if you race the car as they freeze with liquid nitrogen the rotor down to -300 f for a few days and it changes the crystalline structure of the metal to make it even tougher then heat treatment.There are places you can send new rotors out to for treatment but it costs a few hundred dollars for two rotors after all is done.
good luck with the brake change,how are you going to proportion the brake balance front and rear?install a proportioning valve?
ohlord
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The brake lines are pretty easy. I got custom stainless braided ones from Paragon Performace. Confirm the fittings on the ends. I ended up getting the wrong ones on the inboard but made them work. The length they have for this application should be good. He kept the info for this conversion.
I used a banjo fitting on the caliper for the clearence issue.
Besides the stainless lines really firm up the pedal.
You need 17" and up to put these on with enough clearance for the caliper on the spoke.
With these brakes you'll def want to pick up a set of SL500 rear calipers and rotors (the 300mm ones) to maintain some semblance of brake balance unless you put a valve in line like ohlord suggested. Some of the SL500s up to '02 had 334mm rotors, and the caliper looks exactly like that. You probably will need the newer LCA. If you aren't running the biggest stickiest rubber you can find I would recommend that also :p Put some SS brake lines on there while your at it. This mod is really more for looks than anything. You can get pretty much the same stopping power out of a 2 or 4 piston ATE with R4S pads and a good rotor. But it does look bad *** when its done.
Good luck!!!
-Mike
So, chris still have those ATE 4 piston calipers?
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; Dec 4, 2008 at 10:24 PM.
You need 17" and up to put these on with enough clearance for the caliper on the spoke.
My calipers are from the CL500 as well and they are exactly the same as the C32/C55 but the brake line part was different.
The ones you have I am REALLY confident you will NOT need to trim the steering knuckle. You'll need to purchase some L-Shaped adapters for the brake lines. Can you take pictures of the caliper where the brake line connects to? If I can - I am trying to get my car worked on this weekend and if it's on a lift I'll take a picture of what I'm talking about. Anyways, C32 rotors will work or even those SLK32 rotors you're talking about.
17" Wheels of course
and also - You can invest in 2-Piece rotors like Mike suggested but keep in mind how costly those are.



Marky






