Ouch
Ouch
So I just found out that my E320 needs a new head gasket. The part is relatively inexpensive but with labor, ect the bill comes out to $1500....
This would be fine if I weren’t still in high school. Are there any other, less expensive solutions to this problem?
This would be fine if I weren’t still in high school. Are there any other, less expensive solutions to this problem?
You can machine the heads, replace the valve guides AND replace the head gasket? That's what's done on our cars during a proper head gasket r&r...10hrs labor. I know MY time is worth more than that...
why would you replace the valve guides when there is nothing wrong with them? valve guides are probably the least likely thing to go wrong in the valve train..they don't usually need replacement or grind down unless there is a dropped or bent valve... if you're going to replace your valve guides you be better off replacing with all new valves, springs, retainer, and cotter. there's no point to replace the valve guides and put all the old valve train back in.. that be a truly waste of effort. Zorro i think you are referring to a full head Job. (valves, guides, springs, head resurfaced , valve seat cut, ect) If so than everything you just mention are right on target. this could be a shade tree weekend job if you are mechanical inclined, expect 10 plus more hours for sure.. and if you are in high school and have no ends I would consider it. Just make sure you have good references! worst case you'll end up taking it to someone, which you'll have to do anyways if you don't try it yourself. so nothing to lose while you're learning about your car....i love my free time but @ $150/hour... ($1500 for the 10 hour job) ..somebody show me my time card, i'm clocking in early!
If the wiring harness has not been replaced yet then you can count on having to replace the wiring harness as well. The harness is about $800 just for the part.
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why would you replace the valve guides when there is nothing wrong with them? valve guides are probably the least likely thing to go wrong in the valve train..they don't usually need replacement or grind down unless there is a dropped or bent valve... if you're going to replace your valve guides you be better off replacing with all new valves, springs, retainer, and cotter. there's no point to replace the valve guides and put all the old valve train back in.. that be a truly waste of effort. Zorro i think you are referring to a full head Job. (valves, guides, springs, head resurfaced , valve seat cut, ect) If so than everything you just mention are right on target. this could be a shade tree weekend job if you are mechanical inclined, expect 10 plus more hours for sure.. and if you are in high school and have no ends I would consider it. Just make sure you have good references! worst case you'll end up taking it to someone, which you'll have to do anyways if you don't try it yourself. so nothing to lose while you're learning about your car....i love my free time but @ $150/hour... ($1500 for the 10 hour job) ..somebody show me my time card, i'm clocking in early!
Second, you are right, the other stuff is for the full job, I had it done on my M103 2 years ago....the head tech at the dealer that worked on it is my buddy so I got a tiny break and a great job...I just know it was a lot of work....work that makes sense to do while the top end was already apart.
First you SHOULD machine the head to make sure the gasket fits, otherwise it's a waste of time.
Second, you are right, the other stuff is for the full job, I had it done on my M103 2 years ago....the head tech at the dealer that worked on it is my buddy so I got a tiny break and a great job...I just know it was a lot of work....work that makes sense to do while the top end was already apart.
Second, you are right, the other stuff is for the full job, I had it done on my M103 2 years ago....the head tech at the dealer that worked on it is my buddy so I got a tiny break and a great job...I just know it was a lot of work....work that makes sense to do while the top end was already apart.
With my previous American and Brit cars, when I replaced the head gaskets, I just laid a steel scale across the head to check for straightness.
I did a couple like that, without shaving the head, and crossed my fingers. Worked out fine.
That being said, I did it because I was cash-strapped, and I got lucky.
From all that I've read about the prevelance of W124 head gasket woes, you need everything going for you, and planing the head is highly recommended on these cars.
That's my 2 cents, anyway.
totally agree with doing it right! thats what I'm about too.. but there are pretty easy ways to tell if your heads are warped or not.. you can run a compression test.. if you have no or bad compression on all cylinders that could mean your heads are warped.. and if you have all good except for 1 or 2 than its a gasket.. or you can do the method 190E did with a straight edge from corner to corner and a feeler gauge.. not hard just time consuming...
totally agree with doing it right! thats what I'm about too.. but there are pretty easy ways to tell if your heads are warped or not.. you can run a compression test.. if you have no or bad compression on all cylinders that could mean your heads are warped.. and if you have all good except for 1 or 2 than its a gasket.. or you can do the method 190E did with a straight edge from corner to corner and a feeler gauge.. not hard just time consuming...
Dunno if my parents will help but hopefully my uncle will... he's a major benz guy so he understands. additionally i'd hate to get rid of it.....i love that car





