GEDaggett

So here they are. After I got the stinking chain guide pin out.

I highlighted the gasket fail areas in red. The surface area of the head where the leaks were cleaned to a polished shine from the amount oil being pushed out. Internals look like like a 50,000 mile engine. I didn't realize that I was leaking oil into the water jacket so you can see the now mustard colored goo that is my engine coolant. This would have been a one way ticket to total failure. The gasket failed front and back and in 3 of the water ports. You can definitely see the poor design in the original gasket when you have it in your hands. I will be starting the rebuild tomorrow and post when possible.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1236141176

sasjzl

Excellent pictures!
I wish my head looked that bad. I am at the same stage you are at although without any Mercedes experience. What is the cause of all that yellow stuff? Is that the result of oil and water mixing? I am starting to worry about if the cause of my oil leak was actually the head gasket because mine doesn't look anywhere as wasted as that. I'll take a picture of the old gasket tonight in case someone can see something I cannot. Other than being old I could not see any obvious traces of leakage anywhere. I have been told by more than one real mechanic that it was leaking from the front right...so that it was pouring oil on the alternator.

I see that you have the timing belt tensioner in there still. Are you having any problem removing it? I am having to actually completely remove the air pump AFTER undoing the bolt that allows it to swing down to the passenger side. Just not enough room to pull it out. Might be another half inch.

I guess every car is really different because I did not have any problems pulling that guide pin out. I am pretty sure that I did it with a valve cover bolt. Just tapped it and it popped out no problems.

Thanks very much and please keep the pictures coming.

Thanks,
Jim Lee
1995 E320

GEDaggett

Gary

Kestas

I see you use the cardboard method of keeping things in order as I do.
Don't forget to clean the egr tube of crud. Now is the best time to get at it.
Remember the tensioner will need to be removed for head and chain installation, and the tensioner is installed in a certain way.

GEDaggett

I didn't realize I had to remove the tensioner to put the chain back on?. I will have to go back and look at how to go about that. Do you remember why you can't just put everything back the way it came off without removing the tensioner?

Bigpete123

definitely great advice on cleaning teh egr tube while you have access. I've read a lot about how that thing gets clogged up and how its a PITA to clean due to limited access.

jagass

It will be great if you will call your mechanic to check that...

ps2cho

I highly recommend, along with the God Haynes...that you remove, clean and retorque the chain tensioner. He states that it is imperative.... Shouldn't take more than 5minutes to pull it out, pop all the pieces out, clean it and put it back together.

I am surprised at the amount of Carbon on your valves (not much!) Looks great!

GEDaggett

I will definitely take care of the tensioner. I was very pleased with the over all condition of the engine as well. Definitely does not look like 150K. I cleaned everything up last night and it is in great shape. Going slower than I want but it should be back together by Saturday.

Kestas

The tensioner is a ratcheting mechanism that will not retract. It must be installed only after the sprockets and chains are reassembled. Otherwise you may end up with too much tension on the chain which can break the cams in short order. This mistake happens all too often.

To reassemble the tensioner after it is out and cleaned, remove the middle portion of the tensioner, install the outer body to the engine, then install the inner workings of the tensioner.

This tensioner works with oil pressure. The oil pressure will push out the tensioner. But the ratcheting mechanism will not allow the tensioner to retract. This keeps the chain tight for startup. The oil pressure then takes up any tiny slack left over between the ratchet teeth during operating conditions, and also moves it forward as the chain wears over the years during use.

GEDaggett

Very cool. No wonder the chain is in such good shape and you never here chain slap on the timing chain when the engine goes slack.

ps2cho

Slower is 1st place with this type of stuff

Did you clean up the valves/pistons at all?

GEDaggett

I will know a the little bit that is on the pistons off. I examined teh valves and they are so clean that I would not really gain much by cleaning them so I am leaving them as is. This is the cleanest engine I have ever torn down. I do have to flush all the coolant and replace it and I am going to go ahead and just replace the EGR as I have it out anyhow. I should have the head set on tonight. We got rain coming an I don't what the hummidity starting in on the block surfaces. I will post some more pics tonight. My goal is startup on Saturday.

appatula

Is she alive!!

GEDaggett

Not yet. I have to get a couple of things. I just fought the oil filter housing for about an hour and a half. I am replacing the gasket on there to make sure there was no leak. I also need to replace the oil pressure sending unit which is sitting on that housing. I got the Head torqued down and I just gotta keep crankin.