E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Bought my first MB today - '90 300TE

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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 01:21 AM
  #26  
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Just curious while on the CC issue. Does that amplifier also control the accelerate/decelerate function or is there a different module? My 260E accelerates when you move the lever to decelerate.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 02:48 AM
  #27  
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From: NW Michigan (USA)
'90 300TE (S124)
Originally Posted by 190E 16V
I believe that the 3rd stoplight bulb needs to be working order for the cruise to work. My W201 190E, developed at the same time, and sharing many of the same components and systems, had this problem. The bulb was out in the 3rd (high level) brakelight. Once replaced, problem solved.

Maybe that's too simple?

Worth a try...
I checked but my 3rd brake light is working. Too simple, unfortunately.

Originally Posted by ps2cho
If the engine runs nice...you can always leave it alone...but if you are intent on getting back that power then read on. Also, hows your fuel economy? That can indicate pretty well how the engine is. My wagon runs great, but is massively overfueling for some reason as I get about 13mpg average which is terrible in comparison to my 260E which got almost 23mpg last fill up.
I filled up today with 14.8 gallons over 314 miles = 21 mpg. I was pretty happy with that. My driving is short distances to/from work (3 miles), in-town driving and 60mph cruising.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 03:11 AM
  #28  
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Maybe you do have a bad ground somewhere. Check that all dual-filament bulbs are proper (blinkers), the MBs rely on a good ground circuit and a single filament bulb in the wrong spot can cause ghosts.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Wulf
I checked but my 3rd brake light is working. Too simple, unfortunately.


I filled up today with 14.8 gallons over 314 miles = 21 mpg. I was pretty happy with that. My driving is short distances to/from work (3 miles), in-town driving and 60mph cruising.
Yeh my wagon definitely got some problems if I am getting only 13-14mpg average. Thanks for the info
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 190E 16V
I believe that the 3rd stoplight bulb needs to be working order for the cruise to work. My W201 190E, developed at the same time, and sharing many of the same components and systems, had this problem. The bulb was out in the 3rd (high level) brakelight. Once replaced, problem solved.

Maybe that's too simple?

Worth a try...
My 94 has a non functioning 3rd brake light and the cruise control works.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 05:24 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by neanderthal
My 94 has a non functioning 3rd brake light and the cruise control works.
Yes...I wouldn't understand why Mercedes would engineer it that way. It seems very redundant.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:46 PM
  #32  
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From: NW Michigan (USA)
'90 300TE (S124)
I found a CC amp on eBay, installed and it is working great! Easy fix for only $45.

Thanks for all the advice. Next up is changing the transmission fluid and filter and see if it will shift any smoother.

1,500 miles so far, including a camping trip. I have had wagons before and I am still surprised I could fit a bicycle, all camping gear, cooler inside and a kayak on top. It has been a comfortable car for longer distances, even though I could really have used CC on that trip. I guess I have to take another trip soon.



Few more here of the Michigan U.P.: http://wulfers.net/pictures/michigan4/index.html
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #33  
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sorry if I fed you a red herring, but I'm glad the CC is working for you
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 08:39 AM
  #34  
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From: NW Michigan (USA)
'90 300TE (S124)
It was worth it to check into. You just never know what could be causing the problem.

One thing I was wondering about... what's with the different size and shape of the left and right rear view mirrors? I imagine there must be some reason but I haven't figured it out yet.
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #35  
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From: NW Michigan (USA)
'90 300TE (S124)
7,000 miles and counting. I have done the following service so far.

Air filter $15.75
Oil and filter Valvoline Max-Life Synthetic Blend 10W-40 $32.00
Transmission fluid/filter - Valvoline Max-Life DEX/MERC $42.85
Spark Plugs - Bosch Yttrium HR9DC $9.60
Antenna mast $16.58
Fuel Filter - Bosch $13.41
Serpentine Belt - Continental $24.98
Transmission fluid change $24.00
Coolant change $13.72
Brake rotors and pads (front) $134.65

Total $327.54

How much would a MB dealer charge for all of this, including labor?

It's an easy car to work on and it just takes time to get familiar with it. I was doing my front brakes this evening and it took me 2 hours to do one side and 20 minutes the other.

I ordered some used Hella headlights in Germany and will have those in January after my visit there. That'll be a nice change to the car as well. The car is a joy to drive and I never feel like it will leave me stranded somewhere.

Last edited by Wulf; Oct 20, 2009 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 07:54 AM
  #36  
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 08:42 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Wulf
It was worth it to check into. You just never know what could be causing the problem.

One thing I was wondering about... what's with the different size and shape of the left and right rear view mirrors? I imagine there must be some reason but I haven't figured it out yet.
these cars are very aerodynamic. They did everything to reduce the Cd.
Left mirror is closer to the driver so does not need to be as big.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #38  
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You Are running resistor plugs so I'd recommend swapping those out. Next oil change make sure to be using a diesel grade oil as the one you are running is not best as it does not have the zinc additives that this engine likes. Without them there will a little more wear on the cams etc. Delvac, rotella or mobile 1 super 1300 are the correct oils to use.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 03:50 PM
  #39  
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From: NW Michigan (USA)
'90 300TE (S124)
Originally Posted by ps2cho
You Are running resistor plugs so I'd recommend swapping those out.
The HR9DC plugs are a direct replacement for the H9DC plugs. They showed up for my car on autohausaz.com and also on the Bosch website.

Since the H9DC are not made anymore, which ones are the recommended type for the M103? The engine runs great with these plugs.
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Wulf
The HR9DC plugs are a direct replacement for the H9DC plugs. They showed up for my car on autohausaz.com and also on the Bosch website.

Since the H9DC are not made anymore, which ones are the recommended type for the M103? The engine runs great with these plugs.
If it runs great then its probably okay, but I've heard from unconfirmed sources that it can degrade ignition components because the wires already have resistance built into them. It may be costing you a few miles every tank because the spark is not as powerful as it could be in theory.

NGK BP6EFS
Champion S12YCC

For H9DCO, you can try special order over at PP
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.w...sku=0031590403

I heard you can buy the zinc+phosphate additive to put into your current oil if you want to stick with it.

Your father’s motor oil may have been old reliable, but it may be time to move on. It’s more than a coincidence that engine builders have experienced more flat tappet cam failures in the last few years than at any point prior. And that’s because today’s engine oil has a lower amount of anti-wear additives than your flat tappet cam requires in order to keep it spinning freely.

Experts say that the reasons behind the changes in engine oil are numerous, but one of the main reasons is that the American Petroleum Institute (API) has regulated the amount of zinc levels to .08 percent, down from .15 of a few years ago (and even higher levels before that) due to its harmful effects on catalytic converters and emissions systems.
EDIT: I just called peachparts and confirmed they still carry's them, but he said they don't have a whole lot left. I'm gonna order 2 sets so I got a spare for each car.

Last edited by ps2cho; Oct 21, 2009 at 06:11 PM.
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