M103 Fixing List / FAQ / Links / Tips
10-05-2009, 05:38 AM
#29
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85 euro w124 300d non turbo black on black......coming soon hx35 turbo intercooler
I will throw in there amsoil Go to that link and search. The tranny oil is within MB specs (the true numbers not dextron junk) Also engine oil is great and has long change intervals (cheaper long run) and u can sent oils in to get tested which I highly recommend.
Ps i am not an amsoil rep just a happy customer.
Ps i am not an amsoil rep just a happy customer.
10-23-2009, 04:48 AM
#31
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300TE / 300E / 300CE
the rear motor/regulator is distinctly different from the scissor type fronts
The motors are replaceable (AFAIK for early models). I had a rear wire type from a sedan with a bad motor but with good wire and pulley and another from a wagon with no wire and broken window mounts. There are differences but the motors are interchangeable. The orientation on the motor on the regulator is different and the housings were metal vs. plastic with different screw thread types. The plate must be removed to expose the serrated or tri-armed wire spool. The screws are T-star type. The wire ends have ends that fit into the spool and wrap around on opposite sides. Once wound tight, you have to force the spool into the motor housing and get the plate that secures it on and screwed. It is tight. Make sure the orientation of the window bracket it correct, apply 12V on the motor to move it back and forth to check. Grease it and your assembly is ready to install.
Last edited by pifcat2; 10-23-2009 at 04:52 AM.
02-04-2010, 10:01 PM
#39
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1989 190e
Just throwing this out there... If anyone is thinking of replacing their fuel injectors:
http://190rev.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36419
BTW if you are ever testing M103 fuel injectors - make sure you keep everything as clean as possible! today we had a new one get completely clogged and is now basically doesn't work at all.
http://190rev.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36419
BTW if you are ever testing M103 fuel injectors - make sure you keep everything as clean as possible! today we had a new one get completely clogged and is now basically doesn't work at all.
03-18-2011, 08:09 PM
#44
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w124
Does anyone have a DIY for replaceing power steering fluid and changeing the filter? Reason for this is that i have a serious groaning noise on the right hand side and someone mentioned to me that i should change my power steering fluid aswell as my filter.
That should make the noise disappear. Well that or it's my wheel bearing!!!
That should make the noise disappear. Well that or it's my wheel bearing!!!
04-25-2011, 07:26 PM
#46
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1988 300e
watercoolant leaks
Hi, tx for all the DIY, they are awesome, but I have further problems with leaks. I own and 1988 300e and it seems that Im leaking coolant fluid... when I look under the car it looks like it dripping near the junction between the engine an the transmission. I changed the radiator, the hoses, and the hose that goes to the heater... anybody can gimme a clue ??
tx all
tx all
11-01-2011, 04:54 AM
#47
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"88 300CE- First Year Production
So I got a good question and new an answer quick.....Are all M103's interchangable? And are all the automatic transmissions that are go on m103's the same?
Local craiglist guy has an engine/tranny setup from a 1986 300e he isn't using and wondering if its a straight shot for temporary use at least.....?
Local craiglist guy has an engine/tranny setup from a 1986 300e he isn't using and wondering if its a straight shot for temporary use at least.....?
12-20-2011, 06:13 PM
#48
HIRSCHMANN ANTENNA INTERNAL WORKINGS
Hi People,
Merry Xmas to All. I found this excellent post reply on peachparts regards the internal workings of the Hirschmann Automatic antenna. His technical descriptions are wonderful lots of "thingys" but the actual description of how the mechanism extends and retracts is worth reading.
Rather than link to it in case it ever disappears, I reproduce it here with full thanks to the original poster "300SD81 from Atlanta !"
================================================== ========
The antenna uses a switch to stop, lemme see if I can explain it.. Borrowing a pic since I don't know where I put my broken one. Part C is an adjustable arm thingy that makes part B turn about 45 degrees for every full rotation of the pulley that the antenna cable wraps around. If you look closely at the top of part B in the pic, there is 1 pin on the gear thats different from the rest. That one goes between the switches (A). So the full travel of the antenna is a full rotation of B, or 8 rotations of the pulley. If the motor is good, you might want to check A for bad connections. I don't think there are any relays in the antenna. It took me about 20 minutes to fix the junkyard antenna I pulled with the part B from mine after I broke the mast, and swap the tubes that the antenna goes into. Mine had a lot of internal corrosion so I didn't just swap the mast.
Merry Xmas to All. I found this excellent post reply on peachparts regards the internal workings of the Hirschmann Automatic antenna. His technical descriptions are wonderful lots of "thingys" but the actual description of how the mechanism extends and retracts is worth reading.
Rather than link to it in case it ever disappears, I reproduce it here with full thanks to the original poster "300SD81 from Atlanta !"
================================================== ========
The antenna uses a switch to stop, lemme see if I can explain it.. Borrowing a pic since I don't know where I put my broken one. Part C is an adjustable arm thingy that makes part B turn about 45 degrees for every full rotation of the pulley that the antenna cable wraps around. If you look closely at the top of part B in the pic, there is 1 pin on the gear thats different from the rest. That one goes between the switches (A). So the full travel of the antenna is a full rotation of B, or 8 rotations of the pulley. If the motor is good, you might want to check A for bad connections. I don't think there are any relays in the antenna. It took me about 20 minutes to fix the junkyard antenna I pulled with the part B from mine after I broke the mast, and swap the tubes that the antenna goes into. Mine had a lot of internal corrosion so I didn't just swap the mast.
01-17-2015, 05:01 AM
#50
Super Member
Hi, tx for all the DIY, they are awesome, but I have further problems with leaks. I own and 1988 300e and it seems that Im leaking coolant fluid... when I look under the car it looks like it dripping near the junction between the engine an the transmission. I changed the radiator, the hoses, and the hose that goes to the heater... anybody can gimme a clue ??
tx all
tx all
The place i found leaking was at the rear of engine lifting eye,its fixed to the alloy head its there to remove cylinder head. It is held on wth 3 allen screws.It is also the take off for water in put for the heater system ,The O ring is perished its located on the rear of this lifting eye and is pushed in to the head as you fit it back on. I had replaced my pump, radiator ,tensioner.Only to find next start up was water dripping from gearbox housing to the floor. To see if it is this leak ,feel around the top of engine in the area it fits to the block. The O ring is only pence,and sealer put on the bracket before re fitting it. This is a good fix.
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Trevor Hadley (11-22-2021)
