ps2cho

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ps2cho

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gorillajin

Excellent!!!
I read your HG DIY thread and it was very fun.
I know I have to do this someday, and actually you made me think that I can do this myself. I love working on cars although I am not that good.
I have changed the belt, tensioning shock absorber, and upper guide pulley so far. The hardest part for me was removing and installing the fan clutch due to stupid MB design.

Anyway, thank you so much for your post.
Thumbs up!!!!!

appatula

Suspension

Problem: Your W124 feels like a huge wobbly boat on the highway, You feel like your being blown off the road by gusts of wind, car tracks to the left or right only under acceleration.

Cause: Your rear suspension links have badly worn bushings, your rear subframe bushings are shot.

What end of the screwdriver do I hold?: There are 5 rear suspension links per side, they are the links that extend from the rear control arm to the frame, observe the bushings on each end to determine is replacement is needed. They should NOT wobble or look worn. There are two rear subframe bushings located on each side of the rear suspension carriage, take a peek and determine if they need to be replaced also.

Fix: (If your handy with a wrench) I did both the subframe bushings and rear links for both sides along with rear differential mount bushings in my garage, on the floor, using cyinder blocks (not recommended) You will need a bottle jack to jack the subframe bushings out of the sub frame and some blocks of wood to jam between the car frame and the subframe when popping them out with the bottle jack. Here's a nice DIY http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...53&postcount=5

Wolfe190

I'm a 201 guy but since I'm running a 3.0 right now I'll share what I've done. I've seen lots of threads asking "how do i get more power out of my m103?" Here's what I've done:

2.5" exhaust tubing, ditch the precats (just below the exhaust manifolds), magnoflo hi-flo catalytic converter, flowmaster 50 series muffler. I kid you not that this setup sounds like a small Mercedes V8. I finally got a camera and will be posting videos soon.

Steal some AC ducting out of just about any old MB. My choice was a 123 chassis since it was being parted anyway. You need about 4 feet of it (two complete sections will suffice). Cut a small oval hole in the rear of your airbox (about 3" across, 1.5" top to bottom) and plug it in! I figured this was a simple way to insure full usage of that huge air filter.

The R-16 resistor is real. Trash it. I read about it for monthes before I decided to give it a try. I went to unplug the thing and it had already completely corroded itself into nothingness hahaha. So there is definetly nothing to lose there.

If you can mate a LSD to the back of your M103 your car will be sooo happy!! Thankfully for me (being a 201) it was a pretty easy search. The next thing is a set of "LSD spring blocks". These are a custom item that I was able to track down thru a member on 190rev.net. They work perfect. He offers two sets of springs, I opted for the "performance springs", which are much stiffer, and bring your lock to about 80%. The install is straightforward, easy, and you can learn a few things along the way, as well as replace those leaking seals!!! The extra lock is great for drifting, and only slight popping in parking lots. But it will tear up your gravel driveway if you have to make any sharp turns to get out lol.
Thats all for now. I'll post pics and maybe a video when i get a chance. Happy motoring!

epowers777

Someone sticky this excellent!!

My key board is broke hopefully u can edit this up
How to test ur idle valve.

My car did this to me at work was embarrassing
car wont start cold? try this:

(while cold and wont start) Open flap with ur finger and spray starter fluid in it. Start car while pressing on gas peddle (might take a few sprays) when starts rev engine let go of gas pedal. (if it dies go to next step if not check ur 7 injector) Then spray starter fluid and repeat steps. When car starts rev engine until it warms up(dont let go of gas) It will take awhile. when warm let foot off gas if it idle that means ur idle valve is not working replace it.

Is my temp sensor working? (the on that controls computer)
while idling kick on ur ac ur elect fan should turn on. If it doesnt then replace ur temp sensor.

roach_juts

GOOD JOB !!!!!! very help full info !!!!!

epowers777

Just came across this
Need to decode your cars vin:

Decode Here

Decoded my car very interesting!

roach_juts

you for got to include neutral switch trouble shooting or fix ..... just a suggestion
thanks

ps2cho

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ps2cho

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ps2cho

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Wolfe190

I've got a great one this week!!

Problem for the last few monthes my ABS light has been coming on intermittently, becoming more and more often most recently. And in just the last month, it was accompanied by stalling, poor idle, loss of power. I've been doing research and have found quite a few other people who've had the same problem, but never found a conclusion

Solution OVP relay!!!! It takes about 4 minutes, requires a 13mm wrench to get the battery out, and a flatblade screwdriver to separate the old OVP from its plug.


When I picked up the new OVP my car actually stalled in the parking spot as I pulled up. Hasn't done any of that BS since. That 5 days ago At the peak of my troubles, it stalled 5 times going across town (which where I live is one straight shot, about one mile long with 4 stop lights lol)

ps2cho

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pifcat2

This should be a sticky thread!

epowers777

Fixing odometer


Ok here are some picsThis is if your shaft is turning
symptoms:
Numbers fall (right side) or numbers good and trip odometer doesnt work

Instructions below pics!!



Thats the gear we are concentrating on!!



Blue arrow is the shaft we will be removing.

Blue circle concentrate on how straight the numbers are if you rewind your odometer or fast forward make sure all numbers are straight. I look on craigs list and these guys go ,"look low miles" and the numbers are off. I can tell they rewinded there odometer.

The yellow arrow you need to put a screw driver in between the plastic frame and wheel to firmly press your shaft in. Mine was a pain I wack it hard witha screw driver end.



Notice the shaft on left and screw driver on right . Push on the screw driver will putting some resistance on shaft to keep together so the numbers wont fall. Pull shaft completely out while the screw driver wd40 hose toothe pick etc holds the numbers in. Also tilt left so shaft is facing dow while doing it the numbers stay in place easier.
Note yellow marks when installing shaft stick flat tip screw driver in spot to puch shaft in completely . If you dont the shaft will fall.



Pull shaft out completely and ruff shaft up with dikes. I did the whole shaft and it worked great. It will be hard to get back in be patient and dont be afraid to wak it good!!!
put shaft back in and put speedo in wont fall any more!!!


MORE COMING ON HOW TO REWIND OR FAST FORWARD ODOMETER WHAT EVER YOU DO DONT BE ILLEGAL AND REWIND ODOMETER TO BE A LOW MILES CAR.

ps2cho

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latief

This is my HeadGakset Replacement Thread also, it is for the m104 engine...not as clean of a thread as i would like, but hopefully it will help someone

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124...et-repair.html

ps2cho

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epowers777

Look what I found!!!!


Mercedes Code Retrieval
Accessing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
With Impulse Counter
• With ignition switch On and shift lever in P/N position, connect impulse counter.
• Depress Start button for at least two seconds but no more than four seconds, read codes.
• Read codes until first code displayed appears again.
• Codes will appear in ascending order.
With On-Off Ratio Readout
• On models equipped with on board diagnostics, depress non-locking switch to convert control unit to read on-off readout ratio codes.
• On all models, install on-off readout ratio tester to diagnostic socket.
• Allow engine to idle and oil temperature to reach 140-176?F (60-80?C).
• Read and record on-off readout ratio codes.
With Scan Tool
A hand-held tester can be connected to the underhood data link connector (DLC) X11/4 located at module box, or a generic scan tool can be connected to the generic connector X11/22 located in the tower edge of the instrument panel. To access diagnostic trouble codes, follow the tool manufacturer's instructions.
Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
With Impulse Counter
o Complete required repairs resulting from recorded codes.
o With impulse code displayed, wait two seconds then depress Start button for at least six seconds.
o Each code must be erased individually.
o If no number is displayed, then diagnostic trouble codes are erased from memory.
o If code higher than one appears, codes are still stored in memory.
With Scan Tool
To clear DTC's, follow the scan tool manufacturer's instructions.
Diagnostic Codes
Mercedes
90-93 190E & 300 series (2.3L)
1 No system malfunction.
2 Throttle valve switch.
3 Coolant temp sensor.
4 Airflow sensor position indicator.
5 Oxygen sensor.
6 Not used.
7 Td signal.
8 Altitude correction capsule.
9 Electro-hydraulic actuator (EHA).
10 Throttle valve switch and/or Idle speed contact.
11 Not used.
12 EGR temp sensor.
91 & later 300 series (2.8L and 3.2L)
1 No faults.
2 Oxygen sensor inoperative.
3 Lambda control inoperative.
4 Air injection inoperative.
5 EGR inoperative.
6 Idle speed control inoperative.
7 Ignition system failure.
8 Coolant temp sensor-open or short circuit.
9 Intake air temp sensor-open or short circuit.
10 Voltage at Air Mass sensor too high or low.
11 TN (RPM) signal defective.
12 Oxygen sensor heater open or short circuit.
13 Cam position sensor signal from-EZL/AKR ign. control unit defective.
14 Intake manifold pressure at start too low.
15 Full throttle Info defective.
16 Idle speed info defective.
17 CAN Data exchange-Malfunction between control units.
18 Adjustable camshaft timing solenoid-open or short circuit.
19 Fuel injectors-open or short circuit or Emission control system adaptation at limit.
20 Speed signal missing.
21 Purge switchover valve-open or shorted.
22 cam position sensor signal defective.
23 Intake manifold pressure w/ engine running too low.
24 Starter ring gear segments defective.
25 Knock sensors.
26 Upshift delay switch over valve-open or shorted.
27 Coolant temp sensor deviation between sensor ciruits 1 & 2.
28 Coolant temp Sensor.
91-93 190E and 300 series (2.6L and 3.0L)
1 No faults in system.
2 Throttle valve switch(full throttle contact).
3 Coolant temp sensor.
4 Airflow sensor potentiometer.
5 Oxygen sensor.
7 TNA (RPM) signal.
8 Altitude pressure signal from EZL Ignition control unit.
9 Current to Electro-hydraulic actuator.
10 Throttle valve switch(idle contact).
11 Air injection system.
12 Absolute pressure valves from ELZ ignition control unit.

epowers777

EGR LINK A Must read if you have an egr even if its running good.


Emission failure HCs and NOx

High HC) Hydrocarbon failures mean unburned gasoline is passing through the engine and entering the exhaust. The three most common causes include ignition misfire, lean misfire and low compression (typically a burned exhaust valve). Ignition misfire can be caused by worn or fouled spark plugs, bad plug wires or a weak coil. Lean misfire results where there is too much air and not enough fuel, so check for vacuum leaks, dirty injectors or a fuel delivery problem. In addition to these, hydrocarbon failures can also be caused by oil burning due to worn valve guides, valve guide seals and/or rings.

High CO) Carbon monoxide failures indicate an overly rich fuel mixture. On older carbureted engines without electronic feedback controls, look for things like a stuck choke, misadjusted or fuel saturated float or a rich idle mixture adjustment. On newer vehicles with electronic carburetors or fuel injection, the system may not be going into closed loop because of a bad coolant or oxygen sensor.

High HC and CO) If both HC and CO are high, the vehicle may have a bad catalytic converter or an air pump problem. See Troubleshooting P0420 Catalyst Code

High HC and NOx) NOx emissions: The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system's purpose is to reduce NOx emissions that contribute to air pollution. If the EGR system is leaking or inoperative, it can cause problems including; Not Opening = detonation (knocking or pinging when accelerating or under load), Not Closing = a rough idle, stalling, hard starting, elevated NOx emissions and elevated hydrocarbon (HC) emissions in the exhaust.

What Im getting to is the bottom. If you have an egr valve and have symptoms pull egr clean (do not blow air will ruin it) The tube that goes to ur intake is clogged usually up by the intake side. Bore it out with a speedo cable or remove it. The intake side has a 90 degree turn so make sure u get it all.

ps2cho

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ps2cho

oh wow stickied nice!

If I could just get the post unlocked so I can edit it...

gorillajin

If you hear loud ticking noise when start the car, try to change the engine oil to 15w40 diesel oil. I had this loud ticking noise(tapping) when cold start. the noise gets faster when you rev up the engine. It gets faded away when the engine gets hot.
After I changed the engine oil, it's completely gone. No more tapping noise when cold start or after.
Before you spend any $$$ on the engine, change the engine oil first.

Thanks.

epowers777

Use mobil delvac super 1300 15w40 (Cheap but good oil) Or a 20w50. Yeah I know theres a big controversy on oil pls save for another link. Use this cheap oil to make sure ur valves seat properly. We dont want u spending a ton of money on oil and ur valves still tap.
DO NOT USE ANY DIESEL OIL IN UR CAR DO RESEARCH FIRST MOBIL DELVAC SUPER 1300 15W40 IS COMPATIBLE WITH GAS ENGINES.