That Da^^# Ignition Switch again!! HEEELP
#1
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1993 400E
That Da^^# Ignition Switch again!! HEEELP
I got some good instructions on how to Remove this but my 1993 400E seems to be slightly different.
Spent some time (carefully) removing the mats but couldn't find the speedo cable - electronic speedo!! OK, that makes it easy.
Now I am looking for the piece that I need to grind off the steering column to release the lock assembly.
I see a set-screw that looks like it clamps it in and have removed that but can't seem to get any further.
Don't know how to include a picture - I'll keep trying.
Spent some time (carefully) removing the mats but couldn't find the speedo cable - electronic speedo!! OK, that makes it easy.
Now I am looking for the piece that I need to grind off the steering column to release the lock assembly.
I see a set-screw that looks like it clamps it in and have removed that but can't seem to get any further.
Don't know how to include a picture - I'll keep trying.
Last edited by KenF; 09-22-2009 at 04:42 PM. Reason: pressed wrong button
#2
Why are you trying to take out the ignition? Do you need to take off the switch or the whole assembly? The switch should just pull off on the back of the ignition. If you are taking out the whole assembly, there is a little button on the cylinder that needs to be pushed in before you can pull out the whole ignition to the side. The button cannot be pushed in unless the key is in the ignition. I hope that makes sense, I just did this several months ago.
***This was on my '95 E320, I can't guarantee we have the same ignition. Pictures look the same though***
***This was on my '95 E320, I can't guarantee we have the same ignition. Pictures look the same though***
#3
I assume you can't turn the key?
I used a dremel to cut V sections out of the black cover at every angle possible until I could break the cover with a thick screwdriver. I tell you it took a while and that cover is brutally strong to break...but you can get it with enough time and patience (we are talking hours here and lots of dremel parts). Once the lock cover is off, you can get the cylinder out easy.
DO NOT turn the lock assembly without a tumbler in. It will break and you will have to replace the entire thing. Its an anti-theft thing. So make sure to be careful once the cylinder is out.
I used a dremel to cut V sections out of the black cover at every angle possible until I could break the cover with a thick screwdriver. I tell you it took a while and that cover is brutally strong to break...but you can get it with enough time and patience (we are talking hours here and lots of dremel parts). Once the lock cover is off, you can get the cylinder out easy.
DO NOT turn the lock assembly without a tumbler in. It will break and you will have to replace the entire thing. Its an anti-theft thing. So make sure to be careful once the cylinder is out.
#4
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1993 400E
Yes, Key won't turn, So I am trying to replace the lock. Probably have to pay $240 at the Stealership (I guess they only sell the thing complete) But I am almost ready to do that 'cause it's tough to get parts in Canada. tumbler costs $24, Cover is $54 plus $25 freight....
The instructions I have say to grind off the top of the paul to release the lock assembly. But on this car it's not raised so I would have to grind the bracket that holds it - part of the steering column. You can see it in the photo - it's just left of the big "U" bracket - the hole that points downwards at about 45 deg. (I think) Maybe I could try a drill?
If I could get the tumbler out I might just replace that and the cover (maybe I'll try my angle grinder!!) but I have seen a couple of places that they recommend replacing the electric switch also. Seems unnecessary really, this car only has 160K on it and all the electrics I have seen look like they are in good shape.21
I can't imagine grinding that cover off with a dremel - not sure I have that much patience! (actually don't have a dremel either!!)
Is that still my best bet, do you think?
The instructions I have say to grind off the top of the paul to release the lock assembly. But on this car it's not raised so I would have to grind the bracket that holds it - part of the steering column. You can see it in the photo - it's just left of the big "U" bracket - the hole that points downwards at about 45 deg. (I think) Maybe I could try a drill?
If I could get the tumbler out I might just replace that and the cover (maybe I'll try my angle grinder!!) but I have seen a couple of places that they recommend replacing the electric switch also. Seems unnecessary really, this car only has 160K on it and all the electrics I have seen look like they are in good shape.21
I can't imagine grinding that cover off with a dremel - not sure I have that much patience! (actually don't have a dremel either!!)
Is that still my best bet, do you think?
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1993 400E
Ps2cho,
Just went back and read your saga. Wow, and you didn't drop the steering wheel.
If I get the tumbler out can I release the switch body from the column?
I understand that this will mess up the switch but replacing the whole thing may just be my best option. I'm physically not capable of doing what you did!!
Just went back and read your saga. Wow, and you didn't drop the steering wheel.
If I get the tumbler out can I release the switch body from the column?
I understand that this will mess up the switch but replacing the whole thing may just be my best option. I'm physically not capable of doing what you did!!
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1993 400E
Oops! What's next?
Got the cover off but the tumbler doesn't seem to want to come out! Pry'd so hard the front section (bezzel) came off so now I put a part of grips on the tumbler and have tried pulling pretty hard. (without turning!)
Am I missing something here?
Ps2cho, you didn't answer my last question I'm hoping that if all else fails I can still remove the whole thing from the column?
FOR ANYONE GOING TO TRY THIS....
It took about 1 hour with the dremel! Found some dremel cut-off discs at my favourite Princess Auto store. If you let it heat up too much (as you do with a cut-off) it will disappear in a hurry so use it more as a grinding too - keep it moving. It's plenty fast enough.
Also helps to know how thick the material is - I make it .080" also the soft casting metal underneath has a MUCH duller spark.
The casting underneath is ribbed so if you can figure out where the ribs are (& avoid them) you can cut above the cavity - look at the pics in Ps2cho's post. Also it would be nice to avoid cutting thru' the clips which are imbedded in the base area top and bottom. But I cut mine pretty good and it still looks like it will work.
Am I missing something here?
Ps2cho, you didn't answer my last question I'm hoping that if all else fails I can still remove the whole thing from the column?
FOR ANYONE GOING TO TRY THIS....
It took about 1 hour with the dremel! Found some dremel cut-off discs at my favourite Princess Auto store. If you let it heat up too much (as you do with a cut-off) it will disappear in a hurry so use it more as a grinding too - keep it moving. It's plenty fast enough.
Also helps to know how thick the material is - I make it .080" also the soft casting metal underneath has a MUCH duller spark.
The casting underneath is ribbed so if you can figure out where the ribs are (& avoid them) you can cut above the cavity - look at the pics in Ps2cho's post. Also it would be nice to avoid cutting thru' the clips which are imbedded in the base area top and bottom. But I cut mine pretty good and it still looks like it will work.
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1993 400E
Sorry, but I am REALLY stuck!!
I have read everything I can find but am at a dead end.
The ignition key wouldn't turn on my 1993 400E.
So I pulled the cluster, removed the lower panel and dropped the steering wheel. All attempts to turn the key have failed so I used a Dremel with cut-off wheels and removed the tumbler cover - but the tumbler will not come out. I have broken of the front of the tumbler trying. There seems to be some movement but something is still locking it in place.
In desperation I used the Dremel again to grind away the pawl and was surprised to have the whole switch out of the column in about 1/2 an hour.
NOW, if I could just unplug the electrical plug???? It appears that I also need to turn the key to remove that??
What are my options? Cut further? turn the tumbler by force?
Does anybody know why I can't remove the tumbler at this point?
The ignition key wouldn't turn on my 1993 400E.
So I pulled the cluster, removed the lower panel and dropped the steering wheel. All attempts to turn the key have failed so I used a Dremel with cut-off wheels and removed the tumbler cover - but the tumbler will not come out. I have broken of the front of the tumbler trying. There seems to be some movement but something is still locking it in place.
In desperation I used the Dremel again to grind away the pawl and was surprised to have the whole switch out of the column in about 1/2 an hour.
NOW, if I could just unplug the electrical plug???? It appears that I also need to turn the key to remove that??
What are my options? Cut further? turn the tumbler by force?
Does anybody know why I can't remove the tumbler at this point?
Last edited by KenF; 09-24-2009 at 01:17 AM. Reason: typo
#9
You have to release it using a coathanger. There will be two small holes. Press a coathanger in and push until it releases the mechanism.
You can see the tool in the pic:
![](http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/photos/300TE/tumbler/tumbler_4.jpg)
It should be the same mechanism on your 400E.
PS: If your coathanger is too thin, it may not engage. FYI. IIRC mine was 2mm, but don't quote me on it. Just cut the thickest coathanger up into the shape I show and take a shot at it.
If your tumbler is still all intact, you may have to dremel off the faceplate because the holes may not be aligned obviously. You can also see the faceplate in the pic of mine. Luckily for me, it just fell off.
You can see the tool in the pic:
![](http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/photos/300TE/tumbler/tumbler_4.jpg)
It should be the same mechanism on your 400E.
PS: If your coathanger is too thin, it may not engage. FYI. IIRC mine was 2mm, but don't quote me on it. Just cut the thickest coathanger up into the shape I show and take a shot at it.
If your tumbler is still all intact, you may have to dremel off the faceplate because the holes may not be aligned obviously. You can also see the faceplate in the pic of mine. Luckily for me, it just fell off.
Last edited by ps2cho; 09-24-2009 at 12:25 PM.
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Thanks Ps2cho,
Missed that point first time around.
Took about 1/2 hour - for some reason it wouldn't release then suddenly it fell out into my hand. There is only one catch on the tumbler itself and it is on the side away from the column. Funnily enough I was fiddling with the other side when it fell out. So maybe I was pushing the tumbler over - taking up the slack? The locking tab is smaller than the pics I have seen and it is black plastic, half way along the tumbler. This may help anyone else having this problem.
But the saga continues...
I ordered the parts and then starting putting things back together. The little clips that hold the cover were kind of loose so I had removed then so as not to lose them. They have a little tiny spring that tips them out and locks the cover. Well small as it is, sprooong and away it flies!! You know that little gap between the centre console, the carpet and the main dash? Just has a couple of cables in it? Well it didn't even touch the sides! A couple of little tinkles and rattles tells me that I better go back and order up a new switch body. lol
Here is a pic of my tumbler with my pin in it. The black piece is the locking tab.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/attachments/e-class-w124/166477d1253828803-da-ignition-switch-again-heeelp-tumbler.jpg)
If your pin is too thin try bending it a little and then rotate it to press the tab completely in.
A couple of other things...
DON'T remove the carpet - the '93 400E has an electic speedo.
DO remove the cluster and drop the steering wheel - gives you much better access and you can do most of this sitting in the driver's seat.
If you think you might have this problem and are ready to fix it, then every time you park your car extend the steering wheel fully and move the driver's seat back before turning off the ignition. And if you're in a garage, make sure your wheels are straight!
Seems like all these cars are a little different so if anyone needs more detail email more or reply to this post. Be glad to help if I can.
Big thanks to all who have helped me (Ps2cho - yo da man!). Thanks to peachparts webpage and Diesel pages. Ps2cho thanks for picking up Skinners CD index.
It will take about a week to get the parts, I'll post to close this thread out - hope I don't have any more probs.
Missed that point first time around.
Took about 1/2 hour - for some reason it wouldn't release then suddenly it fell out into my hand. There is only one catch on the tumbler itself and it is on the side away from the column. Funnily enough I was fiddling with the other side when it fell out. So maybe I was pushing the tumbler over - taking up the slack? The locking tab is smaller than the pics I have seen and it is black plastic, half way along the tumbler. This may help anyone else having this problem.
But the saga continues...
I ordered the parts and then starting putting things back together. The little clips that hold the cover were kind of loose so I had removed then so as not to lose them. They have a little tiny spring that tips them out and locks the cover. Well small as it is, sprooong and away it flies!! You know that little gap between the centre console, the carpet and the main dash? Just has a couple of cables in it? Well it didn't even touch the sides! A couple of little tinkles and rattles tells me that I better go back and order up a new switch body. lol
Here is a pic of my tumbler with my pin in it. The black piece is the locking tab.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/attachments/e-class-w124/166477d1253828803-da-ignition-switch-again-heeelp-tumbler.jpg)
If your pin is too thin try bending it a little and then rotate it to press the tab completely in.
A couple of other things...
DON'T remove the carpet - the '93 400E has an electic speedo.
DO remove the cluster and drop the steering wheel - gives you much better access and you can do most of this sitting in the driver's seat.
If you think you might have this problem and are ready to fix it, then every time you park your car extend the steering wheel fully and move the driver's seat back before turning off the ignition. And if you're in a garage, make sure your wheels are straight!
Seems like all these cars are a little different so if anyone needs more detail email more or reply to this post. Be glad to help if I can.
Big thanks to all who have helped me (Ps2cho - yo da man!). Thanks to peachparts webpage and Diesel pages. Ps2cho thanks for picking up Skinners CD index.
It will take about a week to get the parts, I'll post to close this thread out - hope I don't have any more probs.
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1993 400E
It's never over till......
...you burn the car???
I Originally posted this on the wrong thread. I wanted it here just to keep the story together. Can't seem to get the images to link though. AND I still haven't solved this
I will detail my experiences here for the benefit of those that follow but my question (HELP PLEASE) is at the end if you don't want to read all this - thanks.
Well Got new ignition parts from Autopartsway.ca - Barrel, cover, body and switch. Sprung $10 to the Stealership or the 3 screws that hold the switch on (Part# 124 990 01 32).
Cut thru' the screws on the old switch to get it out of the car. Couple of tips for anyone following this, 1) the screws are 3/4" and heads are at the bottom of the electrical switch - pick which part you are going to cut. 2) Wear a mask!
Inside the switch (falls out as I take it apart) is a plastic cam-style switch which connects to the "in park" cable. Didn't come with my new lock body and I wish I had ordered it also - part#124 462 14 75.
The other thing that I wish I had ordered is the switch that is on the side of the lock body (part # 124 545 04 14). I guess this thing slides out but it doesn't seem to want to move. So I look at the new parts and it looks like it maybe locked until you turn the key.
My key still won't turn even with all the pins removed from the tumbler and the switch removed from the back. So there is something messed up in the main body of the lock. I try drilling to release the switch - bad move!!! I thought it was just a clip to stop you removing it but it is actually a switch that follows a cam inside the body. So it's still not coming off - I take my zip blade and cut the sucker in two!! Good move, too late!! I now get the switch off but it is buggered by my drilling!!
QUESTION.
Here's a pic of the switch from the side of my lock body (with the cover removed)..
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1254629213
I look up the part# on Autopartsway.ca and it is different from the one I have - it's only half of it. This is what it looks like..
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1254629213
This switch is pretty simple - it makes one circuit and breaks the the other, so here's the problem...
If I can't get the correct replacement - WHAT DOES THIS SWITCH DO? And what can I do if I can't get it replaced??
I Originally posted this on the wrong thread. I wanted it here just to keep the story together. Can't seem to get the images to link though. AND I still haven't solved this
I will detail my experiences here for the benefit of those that follow but my question (HELP PLEASE) is at the end if you don't want to read all this - thanks.
Well Got new ignition parts from Autopartsway.ca - Barrel, cover, body and switch. Sprung $10 to the Stealership or the 3 screws that hold the switch on (Part# 124 990 01 32).
Cut thru' the screws on the old switch to get it out of the car. Couple of tips for anyone following this, 1) the screws are 3/4" and heads are at the bottom of the electrical switch - pick which part you are going to cut. 2) Wear a mask!
Inside the switch (falls out as I take it apart) is a plastic cam-style switch which connects to the "in park" cable. Didn't come with my new lock body and I wish I had ordered it also - part#124 462 14 75.
The other thing that I wish I had ordered is the switch that is on the side of the lock body (part # 124 545 04 14). I guess this thing slides out but it doesn't seem to want to move. So I look at the new parts and it looks like it maybe locked until you turn the key.
My key still won't turn even with all the pins removed from the tumbler and the switch removed from the back. So there is something messed up in the main body of the lock. I try drilling to release the switch - bad move!!! I thought it was just a clip to stop you removing it but it is actually a switch that follows a cam inside the body. So it's still not coming off - I take my zip blade and cut the sucker in two!! Good move, too late!! I now get the switch off but it is buggered by my drilling!!
QUESTION.
Here's a pic of the switch from the side of my lock body (with the cover removed)..
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1254629213
I look up the part# on Autopartsway.ca and it is different from the one I have - it's only half of it. This is what it looks like..
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1254629213
This switch is pretty simple - it makes one circuit and breaks the the other, so here's the problem...
If I can't get the correct replacement - WHAT DOES THIS SWITCH DO? And what can I do if I can't get it replaced??
Last edited by KenF; 10-04-2009 at 12:09 AM.