E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Newb w/ question on 88 300ce

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Old 02-27-2010, 04:14 PM
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1988 300CE
Newb w/ question on 88 300ce

Hello MBworld,

I'm looking to buy a 300ce and it's in less then immaculate shape. Not terrible just shows its age a bit.

The problem I have noticed is that it feels like there is no power with the pedal. You have to really stomp on it to get it to go. It's the automatic and I'm hoping that its not the transmission.

On the freeway the car can get up to higher speeds 80+ but it seems around town it wants to just go slow.

I am good with cars so if its a fix I can accomplish myself, I would rather take that route then having to go to a mechanic for a check.

The owner said it needs a tune up, things like cap rotor and plugs but I don't want to trust his word for it because he is by no means an enthusiast of these vehicles like most people on the board would be.

I have read that it could be a problem with (vacuum or fuel) lines that dry out and reduce performance, the tps, or a regulator. I Just want to make sure its not a transmission problem because if that was the case I would most likely pass up on it.

He is asking $1100 which isn't too bad for the cars shape but, I am weary of the sluggish power band which I know is not common with the CE's.

Thanks for any and all help.

EDIT: Also forgot to mention the engine runs a bit rough. Nothing like a bad cylinder, more like plugs and rotor are getting old. The car does start up quickly though.

Last edited by Raw-b88; 02-27-2010 at 04:16 PM.
Old 02-27-2010, 06:15 PM
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300ce
#1 thing to ask for when buying a used car.......Maintenance records. Ask the owner everything about the car , from top to bottom of the vehicle. You could either be buying gold or a lemon, you never know. When I first bought my 300ce, I asked for the maintenance records, she kept all of it from day 1. Original owner kept a thick binder from oil changes to major repairs. Thats why I bought it off her. If they don't have any records or knowledge of the vehicle, I say pass on it. Or take the car to a mechanic and do a 50 point inspection. Ask the owner if it passes smog or do a pre smog inspection.
Old 02-27-2010, 06:31 PM
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Unless the transmission slips, flares or is very slow to engage reverse, don't worry about it.

How many miles?
Old 02-28-2010, 01:58 AM
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1988 300CE
253k
Old 02-28-2010, 12:45 PM
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Why don't you go drive another 300E and see if they feel the same?


Mercedes tends to use a "heavy" accelerator and people who aren't used to it could think the engine doesn't respond to inputs from the pedal very well.
Old 02-28-2010, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Raw-b88
253k
Too many miles without any history. Pass on it. You could EASILY stack up $5000+ on repairs at an independent repair shop to just get it back up to standard...so why do that? Spend an extra $3k and get a sub 100k miles coupe.
Old 02-28-2010, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ps2cho
Too many miles without any history. Pass on it. You could EASILY stack up $5000+ on repairs at an independent repair shop to just get it back up to standard...so why do that? Spend an extra $3k and get a sub 100k miles coupe.
Well I'm looking for a CE in the lower price range. I just wouldn't want to spend the money if its not worth it. From what I have been driving, this is the cleanest one in my area. The only other coupe I have seen in decent condition is about 75 miles away.

The owner has records, and the car itself only has 140K on it. But he says "its not perfect" as well and I cant justify driving that far away to find something in the same condition for more money.

As far as the local one goes, I have driven my friends 90 300e sedan and it seemed to have more Throw-you-in-your- seat pep, but both were about the same in acceleration.

I test drove it while it was raining, but it still got going quickly.

A list of things I believe will need to be replaced/repaired

It needs fluids changed (trans, oil)
It seems to have a bad rotor on the drivers side front.
The engine needs cap/rotor/plugs.
Tires are getting worn.

Everything else is in decent shape. No check engine light, and the car tracks smooth and straight. No accidents (Carfax)

I can change the trans fluid, and do the tune up stuff. Just about the only thing I cant do is a full engine rebuild or dissassemble the tranny. My buddy can do the transmission rebuild for cost at his shop, but I might just be overthinking the sluggish attitude as a bad tranny instead of small tune up/maintanence items that can fix the problem.

One thing I noticed is that the tranny seemed to shudder 3 times (im assuming what is meant by flaring) when I accelerated when it first started out but not at all after that. It never did the shuttering thing after the first time, it was smooth and felt like it wasnt slipping at all after.

From what I have read and understand the autos are picky about changing the oil every 50k or 24 months. When I go look at it I will check the fluid for varnish, contamination, and/or smell to detect if its bad fluid or a real transmission problem.

Sorry if I typed a lot of information, I figured I would detail everything I can to better help you guys. I hate to let a good deal slip away, but if you guys think I'm pissing in the wind, then let me know.
Old 02-28-2010, 09:34 PM
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You must remember at 253k it is getting towards the end of its life if it has not had impeccable maintenance. You are taking a crap shot basically. Absolutely no way would I even think about the car without having a full inspection at a reputable independent Mercedes shop.

Performance issues are engine related, not transmission. If it shifts too early/late then it can kill power a "little", but nothing drastic.

These transmissions can flare between 2nd and 3rd, but there is a shift kit you can install when you drain the fluid as it is attached to the valve body and can be accessed easily -- It is about $15 and resolves the problems (I am about to put it in my 300TE).

These are the things you want to look at:
1) Does the A/C work? Heater core leaks are a 6+hour job and removal of dash entirely is required.
2) Check coolant for any oil. It usually rises to the top and sits. If so, head gasket is leaking.
3) Check spark plugs for burnt oil. If so, valve stem seals may need to be replaced.

At 253k it should have had the head gasket replaced, but you never know, so the head gasket is at least a $1200+ job done right. A/C can be $1k. Valve seals can be $400+. Just keep that in mind.
Old 02-28-2010, 09:54 PM
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Good thing I waited on it. Usually its too good to be true when the owner says, "not really" in response to "Do you know of any problems?"

I'll just keep looking since I wasn't absolutely thrilled with this car or the owner.

Thanks guys.
Old 02-28-2010, 10:45 PM
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Just be patient...Use crazedlist.org for easier searching. There are plenty here in socal to search.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1617940538.html
^ Shoot him an email, might be a very nice CE especially with the AMG bodykit.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1613678383.html
^ Another here for $2100...

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/1575941207.html
^ 138k...$1800...might be a steal...

Keep searching you get the idea
Old 03-01-2010, 12:07 AM
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Remember kids, what forest dump used to say.... "Buying a used car is like a box of chocolate....Because you never know what you gonna get." ...lol
Old 03-01-2010, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by koalabear
Remember kids, what forest dump used to say.... "Buying a used car is like a box of chocolate....Because you never know what you gonna get." ...lol
True that.
...a good box of chocolates will have the ingredients attached on the reverse
Old 03-01-2010, 12:43 AM
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The 88 in Lancaster is 2 hours away from me, so if i decided to go that far I would want to know everything to look at before i drive 100+ miles
Old 03-01-2010, 12:52 AM
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This is a really great buyers guide
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124...ers-guide.html

Take a read and you should be in good standing to see any w124.

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