ps2cho

I have the JTC klann-copy compressor and a set of Eibach springs (thanks to AMGDave )

...Anything I need to know other than just put the two plates on, compress, remove and replace?

Is there any special orientation upon reinstall? I practiced compressing on of my eibach springs on the carpet and I got the procedure. Just need to know anything special about the actual install.

Thanks,
Robert

Saijin_Naib

Glad you picked that set up off of Dave. I was looking at it before but I just couldn't swing it at the time. Let me know how it goes and I defo want to see pics

RHW

You beat me to those Eibachs by a few days. Should be an ideal drop.

What offset are the wheels you are going to run?

ps2cho

For right now I am going to stick with the 16 Lorinsors I am running. They are 205/55/16 ET35. I shouldn't have any rubbing issues at all.

Soon as I saw them I jumped on it I have been looking for the past month for a good used set..but didn't find any I really liked so was almost ready to buy new @ over $300...

pifcat2

Make sure you place the plates as close to the top and bottom mounts without binding so that you can compress them as much as possible. Try to keep the center screw assembly aligned perpendicular to the spring and LCA hole and so it doesn't bind. Removal of the strut will help R&R the springs. I've used a jack to bring up the LCA to compress the spring which is easier than ratcheting the compressor.

I have the same tire size and wheel offset and still have rubbing on the fender cladding at turns with dips. My cladding is retrofitted so maybe the tolerances are off. I also have rear SLS stuck at extension so the car sits higher in the back and lower at the front.

I liked the Eibachs ride I had on my sedan better than the H&R's on my wagon but will wait for final judgement until after I've corrected the rear struts and possibly added spring shims.

RHW

I am going to try the same 205x55x16 tire size, w 16x7.5 et40 on the wagon today, now dropped on B&G springs. If I had a lick of sense, I'd have bought some Eibachs for a more subtle drop. But there's always next month for that.

YNVDIZW124

Don't do this when installing the new springs. Try to keep the lower plate close to the bottom and on the top leave enough room so that the plate doesn't get stuck on top.

pifcat2

I meant the same thing, the point is they can bind if the plates are too close to the mounts...

ps2cho

Do the rears require the control arm to be removed?

YNVDIZW124

Rears are pretty easy and shouldn't even require a compressor.

Well yeah, but they won't bind on removal of the springs just when you install them.

ps2cho

Attempted the fronts tonight, but I can't seem to compress the springs enough. I compressed 8 coils and it still wasn't enough. I had no jack under the LCA to give me the most space possible.

Looks like I'll have to remove the bolt at the top of the strut then...

ps2cho

^ question bump.

Starting my big brakes, tie rods and springs starting tomorrow now the garage has the wagon gone so if I could get that info that would be great! Do I need to free the strut from the mount or am I doing something wrong here?

Thanks

Declan

u might consider Lorinser, with bilstein stopper for front

ps2cho

Declan

i think its better to cut rather than press

ps2cho

Anybody know what the height of the #1 (is this the lowest?) spring pad is?

My spring pads look in exceptional condition...but it seems like it does add at least 3/4" from the pads. Is running with no pads really rough?

Both front shocks are in. Second side only took me 10minutes once I figured out the placement.
PS: Once I am done with all this if anybody wants to rent out the compressor I would be happy to do it. I'll post more info once I am done, but just food for thought.

edcarls

Yes, 1 bump is the lowest (thinnest) pad. And running with no pads would not result in rough ride. The spring and shock combination determines the roughness of the ride. You need spring pads to contain (hold in place) the springs to the spring perch. Without pads the spring will slip and slide around the perch and produce noise and wear the perch due to metal-to-metal contact.

BTW, I'm interested to buy, if you want to get rid of your original springs.

YNVDIZW124

Number 1 pads are 5mm.

ps2cho

Looks like the OE pad is 8mm. 3mm difference is probably not worth it...

Oh and PS: Our springs are not progressive. These are linear springs they are exactly the same diameter all the way. So whoever said they are progressive is wrong. These springs can be cut without issues. At least that clears up the cutting springs argument!

ksing44

I'm not sure that is true about not being progressive. The spring may be the same diameter, but the spacing between the coils changes from top to bottom. I'm not saying you can't cut the springs, many people have. They cut the bottom, which looks like it would be the softer part of the spring. Actually it seems that cutting the bottom of the spring might produce a slightly stiffer spring overall, although I am certainly not an expert about springs.

ocpanther

The spring rate is only about the spacing between the coils. You can have tapered diameter and the same rate by adjusting the gap between the coils.

If the coils are not all evenly spaced then they are progressive.

ps2cho

I just tackled the rears and the spring compressor won't work...period. After you begin to compress the top of the shaft goes to the top of the body before you even get half way compressed.

How do you do the rears? Support the inboard side of the control arm and unbolt it then slowly let it down?
If so, is that bolt self locking or any hidden rubber I should replace with it unbolted?

ps2cho

Got the rears yesterday.

Wasn't too bad and I didn't need to unbolt the LCA. As the hole is smaller on the rear I needed to jack up the LCA so the spring was straight allowing the compressor to fit. Once that was done, easy. It needed to leverage with a screwdriver at the end, but nothing crazy.

Today's goal: Refinish my Monoblocks, get the tires mounted to them and I am done! I'll see if I can get some pics up tonight if I get speedy with my refinishing!

The OE springs have no different spacing between each oil either. I'm pretty sure they are linear.

ps2cho

A quick shot...

Front is sitting a little higher than the rear...but the rear is dead on. Not the greatest pictures and the car ain't clean either, so take it with a grain of salt. I am going to go buy the #1 spring pads and give the car a few days driving to let the springs settle.

YNVDIZW124

When is the AMG body kit going on? You also need to lower that front some more. Getting smaller spring pads will still leave a gap...