Cannot get my 89 300TE to start - PLEASE HELP!!
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1989 300 te
Cannot get my 89 300TE to start - PLEASE HELP!!
Hi gang,
I'm having the infamous problem of my car had been running with that irritating stalling problem (the one where it stalls at the stop light or when you slow down to make a turn) and then after sitting in the driveway for a complete 24 hours, it simply will not start ! The car turns over and over but will not start. I've had to hook it up to one of my other cars to keep the battery from dying out so I can continue to try starting it. Here's what I've done to the car recently to try to fix the stalling issue that led to this:
- replaced OVP (got several from a junk yard)
- replaced crankshaft position sensor (got several from the junk yard)
- replaced fuel pump relay (again from junk yard)
- replaced spark plugs (non-resistor BOSCH Super Plus)
- new distributor and rotor
- new BOSCH alternator
- new ignition coil
- new fuel filter
Tested the following and they all work:
- temperature sensor (top rear of the engine - near the firewall)
- crankshaft position sensor
- getting good spark on the plugs
- cold start valve is spraying fuel when hooked up directly to 12V source
- can hear the fuel pumps run when turning the key on
- have "built up the fuel pressure" prior to starting (turning the key to the on position several times before fully trying to ignite)
So what am I missing??? I hate to take this thing to the shop and pay out out the ***; however, I am running out of options. I have a car that is completely dead in the water and is stressing me out beyond what an automobile should. Any ideas or thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated - before I just push it off the cliff.
I'm having the infamous problem of my car had been running with that irritating stalling problem (the one where it stalls at the stop light or when you slow down to make a turn) and then after sitting in the driveway for a complete 24 hours, it simply will not start ! The car turns over and over but will not start. I've had to hook it up to one of my other cars to keep the battery from dying out so I can continue to try starting it. Here's what I've done to the car recently to try to fix the stalling issue that led to this:
- replaced OVP (got several from a junk yard)
- replaced crankshaft position sensor (got several from the junk yard)
- replaced fuel pump relay (again from junk yard)
- replaced spark plugs (non-resistor BOSCH Super Plus)
- new distributor and rotor
- new BOSCH alternator
- new ignition coil
- new fuel filter
Tested the following and they all work:
- temperature sensor (top rear of the engine - near the firewall)
- crankshaft position sensor
- getting good spark on the plugs
- cold start valve is spraying fuel when hooked up directly to 12V source
- can hear the fuel pumps run when turning the key on
- have "built up the fuel pressure" prior to starting (turning the key to the on position several times before fully trying to ignite)
So what am I missing??? I hate to take this thing to the shop and pay out out the ***; however, I am running out of options. I have a car that is completely dead in the water and is stressing me out beyond what an automobile should. Any ideas or thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated - before I just push it off the cliff.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Try jumping the pins on the connector where the fuel relay mounts, you'll need to check the diagram. Have you disconnected the fuel line to the fuel distributor to confirm gas is getting to it?
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You should never buy a used OVP -- you are simply asking for problems. Start with a new one they aren't too expensive ~$50. Once you have done this you can rule it off the list. It is not the cause of a no-start condition, but it will be your stalling issue.
Check both hoses that come out of the Idle Control Valve for cracks or splits. Unmetered vacuum loss there will cause a no-start condition. I know from experience. If you have never replaced them or they are hard, go ahead and replace them. The one that goes down to the slide of the engine block is a little tricky, but the one leading under the fuel distributor shouldn't be hard to replace at all.
Also since you are doing it, remove the ICV completely and shoot it with carb cleaner. Get all dirty crap out of there.
Check both hoses that come out of the Idle Control Valve for cracks or splits. Unmetered vacuum loss there will cause a no-start condition. I know from experience. If you have never replaced them or they are hard, go ahead and replace them. The one that goes down to the slide of the engine block is a little tricky, but the one leading under the fuel distributor shouldn't be hard to replace at all.
Also since you are doing it, remove the ICV completely and shoot it with carb cleaner. Get all dirty crap out of there.
Last edited by ps2cho; Jun 5, 2010 at 10:01 PM.
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1989 300 te
Thanks for both messages guys. I was assuming that fuel was getting to the fuel distributor since the Cold Start Valve was producing a nice mushroom shaped mist of gas and I don't see where it's getting the fuel source from anywhere else. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Ps2cho- can you point me to the ICV? What does it look like? Does anyone have any pics of this part? I have read several post about the ICV and I know I haven't touched it since I don't know what I'm looking for. I'm hoping that is the problem. BTW, I do plan on buying a brand new OVP as it solved my original problem of the stalling - just figured since I was in the junkyard, I'd get one to try to see if it fixed the original problem - and it certainly did.
Ps2cho- can you point me to the ICV? What does it look like? Does anyone have any pics of this part? I have read several post about the ICV and I know I haven't touched it since I don't know what I'm looking for. I'm hoping that is the problem. BTW, I do plan on buying a brand new OVP as it solved my original problem of the stalling - just figured since I was in the junkyard, I'd get one to try to see if it fixed the original problem - and it certainly did.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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Oh ok I thought when you listed it meant you tried and failed...Goodjob 
The ICV has two rubber vacuum hoses going into it. It has an electrical plug going into the front of it and two bolts that hold it down. Very easy to remove.
The ICV has two rubber vacuum hoses going into it. It has an electrical plug going into the front of it and two bolts that hold it down. Very easy to remove.
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1989 300 te
I just found the ICV! Thanks for helping to point it out, ps2cho. Now, is there a way to test this thing to know if it works? The hoses, both coming in and going out, look to be in really good condition and are very pliable. If this thing is completely not working - can that cause the car to completely not start (remember, it will turn over and over and over). thanks again.
UPDATE: I just went out, removed the ICV but kept it plugged in, attempted to start the car and had a friend hold the ICV and we can see the valve inside open up during cranking and then close back down (with a minimal opening) when the key is turned off. So, it appears the ICV itself is working when commanded; however, the car still will not fully start.
Any other ideas????
UPDATE: I just went out, removed the ICV but kept it plugged in, attempted to start the car and had a friend hold the ICV and we can see the valve inside open up during cranking and then close back down (with a minimal opening) when the key is turned off. So, it appears the ICV itself is working when commanded; however, the car still will not fully start.
Any other ideas????
Last edited by frogkid11; Jun 6, 2010 at 10:05 AM.
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1989 300 te
Apparently no fuel is getting to the injectors !!
While I was under inspecting the ICV (thanks to ps2cho) I pulled the first fuel injector at the front of the block. It wasn't spraying any fuel when the key was turned and trying to crank the car. I pulled the line at the top of the fuel distributor for that injector and then tried to start again - no visible signs of any fuel being pushed through that line. I pulled the lines that come into the fuel distributor (one on the back and one on the front that goes directly into what I think is the pressure regulator) and they are both spraying fuel when I loosen them. So it appears fuel is getting to the fuel distributor; however, it is not being sent out to the injectors. That would definitely explain why I cannot start the car. Now, before I spend over $1,000+ for a new fuel distributor, is there anything else I should check that say triggers the fuel distributor to send fuel? Is the fuel pump relay involved here at all or does it just control the fuel pumps in the rear of the car? Any help is greatly appreciated.
