funkgab

So I look at my trunk.. I hate that huge kicker in my trunk.. apparently today my amp decided to die or something as well.. I forgot I didn't have a spare tire for my car.. and was thinking would I be able to just throw something like an Infinity Basslink in there?

I refuse to ever pay a car audio shop again since I had such bad experiences (well unless of course its member referred) so what do ya guys think?

spetz

I think the enclosure would be too small for good bass reproduction

RHW

2Phast is known + trusted for quality advice. Note his response on this thread:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-question.html

ZedStyle

i've been meaning to post pics of my humble setup... i'll try to get some up by the end of the week, to give you an idea of options that take up VERY minimal trunk space...

STLe320

In my opinion, if you want the best sound with the least amount of rattle, mount it somewhere in the cab. The gas tank really is a sound barrier almost in these cars.

I have my subwoofers in the cab with me...but I also have no back seats due to a 8 cubic ft box with 2 15" Kickers

rivcal4life

Some of the best setups I've seen are mounted in the rear deck. I would do it on my 500E, but do not want to damage or remove the roller-blind. I believe ZorroAMG has a 10' woofer mounted where the medical kit usually is.

I can't remember the name of the other user who posted a very detailed stereo install.

Saijin_Naib

Would it be possible to keep the sub and the medi-pack by laying the medi-pack over the installed (flush to the deck) sub? I'd rather not lose that for the sake of some boomboom.

Mosselmann

heres mine two 8's under the headrests, which still fully function.

Saijin_Naib

Nice

Do they rattle the headrests or otherwise make noise when they are tucked down?

joef

Took some searching, but.................

https://mbworld.org/forums/2022361-post23.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...eaker-box.html

funkgab

hmmm wow props on the setup for those 8's.. i like my headrests down most of the time though (since I do have a huge box when the headrest goes up it does feel like a massage if your whole body is on it)

I had an audio shop install everything "professionally"
(this is where i messed up paying some stereo shop that ripped me off) [and now i would like to try my own ice setup cause it doesn't look that hard]

Basically I'm running infinitys in the front deck, and some infinitys in the rear deck.. they fit pretty flush for the front, but for the rear instead of making speaker mounts used dynamat (THAT I PROVIDED ) and just surrounded the speakers and wanted to charge me for it..

I've talked to calie320 and he says what I should do is cut a hole into the rear deck, and the med cabinet and mount something there..

I was thinking about punching a hole through the rear deck, and just running a infinity basslink or something in the little shallow side panels the trunk has but I still want to cut the hole anyways because it will probably allow more sound into the cabin..

RHW - I'll shoot him an email I guess.. I know he can be trusted.. i bought many things from him, and the ammount of work on his car is... just DAMN.

Right now I'm running a ghetto setup.. One day when I have money, knowledge, time (in that order) I'd like to redo my whole setup...

Right now my sub, is a Kicker W7 12" Solo Barrick in a huge ported box... honestly I can feel it.. but I'd rather have space and a little less bass because I don't blast the bass anyways...

The bass that kicker provides is a little too deep (IMO) and only sounds nice for hiphop.. and sometimes electronic.. I perfer bass that is more like a speaker, where its fast and just pounds instead of a deep rattle...

I'll post pics of my ghetto setup soon..

Also, is dynamatting the whole car worth it? Its only going to weigh it down more.. I only have the trunklid done for now.. (well the shop who did did my setup did it for me.. charged me up the ***.. didn't even do a good job)

keeponice

i sound deadened my 300e before i even took it home. i think sound deadening is always a good idea. I'll try to get some pics up later with my setup. I am very happy.

RHW

I paid to have my first coupe (89) dynamatted EVERYWHERE, every inch of the cabin below glass was covered.

You could hear the silence over the road - it was uncanny. Also improved that car's tri-amped stereo's sound.

However, since i was paying a shop, the variables:
1 cost
2 these guys reassembling my interior

Led me not to repeat.

I would recommend it if you were doing it yourself AND planning on keeping the ride. Have to buy that stuff in quantity online, not at a shop where they mark it up 3x.

funkgab

I've been on quite a stump if I'm going to keep her or not.. So I havn't dynamatted the rest of her actually.. How much did it cost for labor around just out of curiosity.. Also the car came with an aftermarket exhaust system.. The cat seems like some cheapy from a muffler shop, running a magnaflow 40 or something.. The sound is really nice actually.. It just drones like hell and I think it shakes the car.. I'm mostly sick of the car shaking at idle.. Or is this normal?

rivcal4life

If your car shakes at idle with the bass off, it is likely your motor mounts. Replacing them will make a world of difference.

funkgab

Oh so its my motor mounts? Cause I don't hear em or feel em creaking or anything when I accelerate

I always thought it was the cheap exhaust.. guess I'm wrong

rivcal4life

It's a fairly common problem. I would actually hold my car at around 1000 RPMS in my 300E to stop it from shaking. It would stop under acceleration as well. There are pretty detailed walk-throughs here on the forum somewhere. The mounts cost me (I think) something like $40-45 each from www.rock-auto.com. Also try www.autohausaz.com and www.pelicanparts.com.

funkgab

oh okay thanks.. how many mounts do i need to get? i know some cars have 4.. but im not sure about this one

rivcal4life

Just 2.

Floobydust

For large, flat surfaces I use the mass-loaded adhesive backed vinyl sheets sold by McMaster-Carr here: McMaster-Carr, part number 9709T26. At ~$25/sheet, for flat locations (door skins, trunk lids, etc.), it offers reasonable damping performance for 1/6 the price of Dynamat. For more irregular areas, the flexibility of the Dynamat is a must.

- FD

STLe320

You mean Kicker L7 Solo baric? JL Audio makes a "W7." I'm running 2 15" L7's currently. And...I can't lie, I shake other's mirrors at stoplights.