Larger master cylinder and booster for those doing brake upgrades on their w124's and w201's.
The booster is out of a w140 part number 430 55 30 and master cylinder ends in 10 04, if memory serves me correctly was out of a r129.
I had this combo along side R129 334mm Silver Arrow brakes.
$70+shipping
Located in Southern Ontario
Paypal Okay
Email me at jfilipcic@gmail.com for quicker response

Notice a big improvement in pedal feel? Was it too touchy?

I wouldn't say touchy - keeping in mind I had larger calipers and rotors than stock. Very responsive would be a better word. It worked well with the other parts.

I have bought a set of C32 amg brakes for my W124 3.4 amg.

im tempted by this....donno if it will help out or not in my case coz i dont know what does my car have from factory (and im out of the country for the moment so i cant check)

Joef,

One of my cars seems to have the front brakes doing all the work and the rears have gone lazy. Everything is in good order etc etc. Is there a way of fixing this and giving a little more bias toward the rear, is it a case of overhauling the clipers, booster or master cylinder. Hoses are all factory, even if they are expanding it should not affect the bias, is that right.

I need a little advice to fix the lazy rears. Hardly any dust, where as the fronts are almost black!

Sorry, I'm not an expert in this. I relied on my cousin and his knowledge.
Try AMGDave/GSXR (not sure what user id he uses on this forum) I believe he is knowledgable in this subject.

You seem to be the only one on this thread that has a legitimate concern. I think everyone else has more money than brains. Mercedes has always engineered a braking system to match the needs of each model. If you're going to drive an AMG to the mountains or down the autobahn at 160 km, Mercedes beefed the brakes up to match. The brake systems in all standard vehicles are more than sufficient.

In answer to your question, I think your brakes are probably just fine. Front brakes on probably all vehicles do 75% of the work. The rear brakes only do 25%. If you look at all the other Mercedes vehicles, you will find the front wheels all dusted up and hardly any on the rears. This is perfectly normal.

Hey :\ I do autocross so I'm looking for a bit extra braking perf, but thanks for the slight.

Mercedes have a good braking system but that doesnt mean its perfect and the imporvment is impossible. the parts for sale does help when you have a brake upgrade.

No. The brakes are not working the rears enough. Other car is much much better. I would like to know why rather than just replace parts.......

Have you replaced all the brake lines that go to the rear brakes?

That would stiffen up the pedal but would not "up the pressure" on the rears, as pressure is equal through-out the system.

I think it is likely this may be something to do with the master cylinder, or the rear callipers themselves...........?????

I doubt if that has anything to do with the hoses. The chance of both of them becoming occluded is highly unlikely.I also doubt that there is a problem with two calipers. If all four pads are wearing evenly, chances are none of the four Pistons is stuck. It is not a common tool, but a brake shop may have a pressure gauge set.You remove the four pads and install special pressure sensors.You then apply the brakes and read the pressure per square inch on a gauge. You could also remove the two lines from the master cylinder that go to the front brakes and install plugs in the master cylinder. Drive and stop the car with just rear brakes, and see how that works. Remember the rear brakes only do about 25% of the work, so don't expect them to really stop the car effectively,but it might give you some clues. Good luck.

Hey guys, sorry to tread-jack, the m/c and booster are sold!

Congrats on the sale Joe

I had problems with no brakes on my rear end last year, found the brake pads was totally worn out while the front pads was good as new.
Changed the rear pads, and while doing so I found the piston inside the caliper was hard to move.
But the brakes got very good after I installed the new pads, until now.. The problem is starting to come back, with almost no brake effect on the rear end. I think I need to overhaul my calipers, seems like they are hanging on and wearing out my pads by record time.

It is really not fun on icy roads when the front wheels tend to lock when I try to get stopped, and you need to put it in neutral just to get it to a full stop..

Let us know if you do mate!

Required reading for anyone thinking about updating their MC and/or booster:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...r-upgrade.html

Summary: Pedal feel is highly subjective, and what one person thinks is great, another may not like at all. Pad compound can seriously affect pedal feel as well. Bigger is not always better, as I learned the hard way; I had to "downgrade" to a different setup after my big MC+booster turned out to be un-modulateable (hmmm, is that even a word?) during trail braking.

Exactly my concern. I like the highly analog feel of the w124 components. Sure, its not direct, but you can steer/brake/accelerate very smoothly. I'd not want an instant-on feel to the brakes like some cars I've driven.

To avoid that i will just attempt the c32 amg brake setup with the regular MC and brake booster

thanks Dave!

To avoid ALL of that I'm sticking with stock brakes like I've said before. I've done Carson Pass just South of Lake Tahoe which has an elevation of 10,000 ft. in a good old 82 300SD without a problem. There's a long section of road on the way to Yosemite appropriately named Priest's Grade. Many years ago they built a switchback road for the faint of heart which is safer but much longer,because of all the switchbacks. Old Priest's Grade is open to those who want to save time, trust their brakes, and carry a change of shorts. I've been down old Priest's Grade several times in a mercedes with stock brakes. Trust me a trip down that road will put your autocross braking to shame. You talk about a few seconds of braking. I'm talking about several gruelling miles down hill where you hope your brakes hold and don't fade, because if they do fail, you are going several thousand feet down a cliff, and you probably won't survive.

As someone pointed out, selection of pads is very important. If you are willing pay extra for the best braking from your system as designed, go with OE pads instead of OEM. Your wheels will look like crap from all the black dust, but your brakes will operate at peak efficiency.

I don't think a 100rwhp 126 diesel is typically the kind of car people are looking to improve the brakes on. But yes, pad compound and brake fluid type/condition have a significant effect on fade resistance.

Regardless, for performance use the stock MB brakes are often inadequate, particularly if the engine power has been increased substantially. Larger brake rotors, pads, etc offer both increased fade resistance as well as increased brake torque. Almost all factory AMG cars came with larger brakes than stock. Would you say that AMG didn't need to do that...?

The original 500E brakes were barely adequate at all, no matter what pads were used. Even MB figured that out and increased the front brake size mid-production for USA and Japan (the Euro-spec cars got larger front AND rear brakes). Even those larger brakes on the late 500's are borderline when stopping from autobahn speeds, while they're fine for under 100mph, they're not confidence inspiring from 130mph. The infamous Silver Arrow kit makes a BIG difference from Warp 9 compared to the late 500E setup. I have one car with each and the difference is very obvious.

Besides, stock sucks!! LOL!

No I wouldn't say that AMG needs less brakes. Because of the power of the engine they are and should be beefed up. In fact they are so different that on some if not all models, the rotors can not be swapped side to side. Each side takes a different part #.