lsboogy

i have a 95 E320 (104 motor) that the air pump has gone out in - again. Owners manual says 2445 belt length for the thing with air pump, does anyone know what length I would need to just unplug the air pump and bypass the thing? I am on my third pump now, and I think I should just bypass it - car is now being driven by my daughter as it is the safest car I have, but I do not want to drop too much into the thing - she will get my father's W220 in a couple of years, and that will be fine for her in college, and this is her first car.

bsmuwk

why are the pumps going out? do the bearings keep freezing or what?



you know you can unplug the pump and prevent the clutch from engaging right? if your problem is only when the thing engages, then unplug away and just keep the dead weight there.

lsboogy

I don't know why they keep going out - I had the first one done at 80K, thing started making the putt-putt noise, and I took it to my mechanic. Second one went out at 90K - probably not a great pump re-build, but my mechanic put in a new one for labor only. Car has 160 on it now, and the bearings in this one are going.

bsmuwk

holy crap man.
i still have my original one after 166k! (although unplugged because the clutch is going out)


i dont know the belt length and am eager for an answer here soon because i'd love to get rid of that dead weight.

Carbooks

OK, get on the Euro EPC ($9.95 per year) and make out a list of what parts you need. Use an early version of the 104 engine.
As I recall you'll need a bracket, spacr tube, a few fasteners and MAYBE, MAYBE the bearing bracket but I am not sure of that. If you don't need the bracket it's about $15 in parts not including the belt from your local MB dealer. Might as well get a new pulley while it's apart (around $50 or so).

When on the EPC you'll be able to check the belt length for the air pump delete option for the 104 engine.

If you need me to order them my guy will order stuff direct from Germany even though the parts are technically blocked by MBUSA. "Ve have our vays!"

If I have time next week I'll make out a conversion list if no one does it first.
FWIW you can do the same for the M119 engine by using the Euro 034 car as a guide.

Kind Regards,

Ron

little_e

Check belt lengt on the w124 E36. The E36 didn't have the air pump as far as I know.

lsboogy

I just used the old string trick - took one piece and wrapped it around the alternator, air pump, and idler pulleys, cut it, and then took the air pump out, wrapped a string around the alternator and idler pulleys - length difference is about 30mm - should be the same for most others in this series as well. Off to the auto parts store!

Floobydust

I recently did an extensive search for the same thing (different reason). Try looking here: smog-pump-answer-finally-number. A 30 mm difference seems correct as that person went to a 6PK2415 belt.

Hope this helps.

- FD

vanwiek

You also need part number A1040160033
To plug air injection bore/Smog pump bore on the side of the head. It was $3.60 when I bought it from my dealer in January. Also, I was able to use my existing belt, the belt tensioner took up the slack with no problem.

lsboogy

Car is back on the road - no check engine light, running fine. I used the rubber hose with an aluminum plug in it to seal off the thing for the weekend, I will go get the correct plug this week if I can. 30mm shorter belt, pull off the pump, plug the hole for air injection, and thing is working fine.

Next weekend, re-build the calipers and do the flexible brake lines for her.