Hey Everyone! I just wanted to kill two birds with one stone! :D
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, California
1991 Mercedes E300 3.0L
Hey Everyone! I just wanted to kill two birds with one stone! :D
Hey guys/gals!
I first want to introduce myself! I have always owned BMWs and don't know anything about Mercs but being that I have worked on my cars for the last ten years I feel as though I should catch on quickly!
With that being said...I come to you because my father owns a 1991 W124 E300 3.0 with 170K on it and I have recently started to work on it for him being that he neglects it sooo much! I started my tune up process with the simplest thing, the air filter, and when i went to start it to warm up the engine and tranny oil so I may change all those fluids out as well it wouldn't start.
It made a cranking noise...eh eh eh eh eh eh ...then nothing....then eh eh eh eh eh...then nothing...similar to this but not exactly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXnEQ...layer_embedded
And I was like all this from a air filter change as it use to start before with a very rough idle. So I took the air filter out...and tried to start it with out it and all of a sudden it made some sort of sparking noise...so I ran up and smelt a burning smell (starter fried?)...so then I replaced it and then it started! I was like WOW this car is random!! haha!
At this time it had a very rough idle like it was about to die...so I thought because I tried to start it sooo many times that there was a fuel back up issue of some sort so I let it idle as I moved the other car to make room to take this out of the garage.
When I pressed the gas while in park I noticed that it would not rev up and it almost killed it. I was puzzled. So I put it in reverse and tried to drive it. When I engaged Drive and pressed the gas it BARELY putt putted and gain speed and a very slow rate all while almost dying. I then floored it to see that it made no difference. So I stopped the car then changed the gear all the way down to 1 to see what would happen. I noticed that from idle to ~2500k rpm it would suffer and hardly go any where but once it hit 3000K or so it would run like a champ....huh?!?!
So then I click the gear up to 2 and noticed that it would suffer only at low RPMs but would run semi-okay at high. So then I pulled (tried) into my garage (uphill) for the car to only die half way up (low RPM) and not to start any longer.
So now with that said what should I do...start looking at?!
Is it the starter? Fuel Pump?
Please help as this has stumped me and I have never experienced a problem like this before
I first want to introduce myself! I have always owned BMWs and don't know anything about Mercs but being that I have worked on my cars for the last ten years I feel as though I should catch on quickly!
With that being said...I come to you because my father owns a 1991 W124 E300 3.0 with 170K on it and I have recently started to work on it for him being that he neglects it sooo much! I started my tune up process with the simplest thing, the air filter, and when i went to start it to warm up the engine and tranny oil so I may change all those fluids out as well it wouldn't start.
It made a cranking noise...eh eh eh eh eh eh ...then nothing....then eh eh eh eh eh...then nothing...similar to this but not exactly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXnEQ...layer_embedded
And I was like all this from a air filter change as it use to start before with a very rough idle. So I took the air filter out...and tried to start it with out it and all of a sudden it made some sort of sparking noise...so I ran up and smelt a burning smell (starter fried?)...so then I replaced it and then it started! I was like WOW this car is random!! haha!
At this time it had a very rough idle like it was about to die...so I thought because I tried to start it sooo many times that there was a fuel back up issue of some sort so I let it idle as I moved the other car to make room to take this out of the garage.
When I pressed the gas while in park I noticed that it would not rev up and it almost killed it. I was puzzled. So I put it in reverse and tried to drive it. When I engaged Drive and pressed the gas it BARELY putt putted and gain speed and a very slow rate all while almost dying. I then floored it to see that it made no difference. So I stopped the car then changed the gear all the way down to 1 to see what would happen. I noticed that from idle to ~2500k rpm it would suffer and hardly go any where but once it hit 3000K or so it would run like a champ....huh?!?!
So then I click the gear up to 2 and noticed that it would suffer only at low RPMs but would run semi-okay at high. So then I pulled (tried) into my garage (uphill) for the car to only die half way up (low RPM) and not to start any longer.
So now with that said what should I do...start looking at?!
Is it the starter? Fuel Pump?
Please help as this has stumped me and I have never experienced a problem like this before
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 534
Likes: 13
From: Beirut, Lebanon
2006 C55 AMG 6 speed
Ahhh, the beauty of Merc's Jetronic system. :P
Scroll down the thread list, maybe skip to the next page, there's a comprehensive CIS (the 3.0's injection system) troubleshooting guide. It's good enough to get you started, definitely.
Scroll down the thread list, maybe skip to the next page, there's a comprehensive CIS (the 3.0's injection system) troubleshooting guide. It's good enough to get you started, definitely.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 534
Likes: 13
From: Beirut, Lebanon
2006 C55 AMG 6 speed
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,494
Likes: 17
From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Start with the basics...
Do a complete tune...plugs, wires, rotor and cap...
Check the OVP relay and the Fuel pump relay
Fill the tank with fresh high quality gas and some injector cleaner.
Find and eliminate all vacuum leaks.
Get a shop manual and set the KE to factory specs..
Do a complete tune...plugs, wires, rotor and cap...
Check the OVP relay and the Fuel pump relay
Fill the tank with fresh high quality gas and some injector cleaner.
Find and eliminate all vacuum leaks.
Get a shop manual and set the KE to factory specs..
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, California
1991 Mercedes E300 3.0L
Sadly the news keeps getting worse!
So being that I wanted quick answers and didn't want to throw money left and right at the car I decided to take it to the mechanic!
When it got there, in non running condition, the mechanic said lets do a compression test first!
OH OH!
HORRIBLE!
All of the cylinders were half the compression of what they were suppose to be, ranging from 60-70. He basically told me that my engine is DONE and I either need a new engine or a total rebuilt costing thousands. And with that said he said you may just want to sell this car as parts being that it is only worth 3k or so.
Now my question is what can cause this low compression?
Fixable with under a grand?
Worth fixing?
Any other tests that can be done?
Sadly is that the body and interior of the car ARE PERFECT! and I am no over exaggerating either. Worth it or part it?
And help is welcomed!
thanks!
So being that I wanted quick answers and didn't want to throw money left and right at the car I decided to take it to the mechanic!
When it got there, in non running condition, the mechanic said lets do a compression test first!
OH OH!
HORRIBLE!
All of the cylinders were half the compression of what they were suppose to be, ranging from 60-70. He basically told me that my engine is DONE and I either need a new engine or a total rebuilt costing thousands. And with that said he said you may just want to sell this car as parts being that it is only worth 3k or so.
Now my question is what can cause this low compression?
Fixable with under a grand?
Worth fixing?
Any other tests that can be done?
Sadly is that the body and interior of the car ARE PERFECT! and I am no over exaggerating either. Worth it or part it?
And help is welcomed!
thanks!
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 534
Likes: 13
From: Beirut, Lebanon
2006 C55 AMG 6 speed
Buy an engine and stick it in. The longblock itself shouldn't be too expensive if it's used.
Anything other than that is dangerously over 2 grand. :S
I believe I saw an M104 longblock go for 600$ or so here. Installing it shouldn't take more than a day or two.
Anything other than that is dangerously over 2 grand. :S
I believe I saw an M104 longblock go for 600$ or so here. Installing it shouldn't take more than a day or two.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, California
1991 Mercedes E300 3.0L
Will I need a new computer?
New tranny?
Plug and play?
The labor may be the killer part $$$$ as I cant do it myself
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, California
1991 Mercedes E300 3.0L
He said he was going to check the timing chain to see if it skipped...
But for the most part he says the car is toast
he advised that I can keep the car and if I come across an engine locally then I can pop it in
Or sell it as is for like a g
But for the most part he says the car is toast
he advised that I can keep the car and if I come across an engine locally then I can pop it in
Or sell it as is for like a g
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
320TE
Second that, can't believe all cylinders will have low compression..
Why would the timing chain skip? how rare is that? especially If it ran like a champ above 3000 rpm. And by looking at your video i doubt it would even run like that!
My current guess is fueling issue.
Why would the timing chain skip? how rare is that? especially If it ran like a champ above 3000 rpm. And by looking at your video i doubt it would even run like that!
My current guess is fueling issue.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
320TE
Another thought...
Test Battery voltage.
If it was a half dead battery you would have a poorly running starter motor hence the low compression readings on all cylinders, and possibly a poorly running fuel pump so no fuel pressure..
Just check everything yourself before you assume / are told it's toast!
Test Battery voltage.
If it was a half dead battery you would have a poorly running starter motor hence the low compression readings on all cylinders, and possibly a poorly running fuel pump so no fuel pressure..
Just check everything yourself before you assume / are told it's toast!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 3
From: North NJ
94 Wagon and 94 Cabriolet
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, California
1991 Mercedes E300 3.0L
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 534
Likes: 13
From: Beirut, Lebanon
2006 C55 AMG 6 speed
No, not idiot proof.
Car needs to be warm, not cold. Keep it on for 15 minutes, then let it cool for 10-15 minutes and take the compression test.
Test should be taken by depressing the gas pedal FULLY before you start cranking, crank it 10-15 times, and check your figure. Remember to make sure the compression dial's valve is functional, so that it holds your reading steady. It's a 2 people job, don't even try to do it alone. :P
All of them being low is an anomaly, like RHW said. Take the test again.
Car needs to be warm, not cold. Keep it on for 15 minutes, then let it cool for 10-15 minutes and take the compression test.
Test should be taken by depressing the gas pedal FULLY before you start cranking, crank it 10-15 times, and check your figure. Remember to make sure the compression dial's valve is functional, so that it holds your reading steady. It's a 2 people job, don't even try to do it alone. :P
All of them being low is an anomaly, like RHW said. Take the test again.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, California
1991 Mercedes E300 3.0L
No, not idiot proof.
Car needs to be warm, not cold. Keep it on for 15 minutes, then let it cool for 10-15 minutes and take the compression test.
Test should be taken by depressing the gas pedal FULLY before you start cranking, crank it 10-15 times, and check your figure. Remember to make sure the compression dial's valve is functional, so that it holds your reading steady. It's a 2 people job, don't even try to do it alone. :P
All of them being low is an anomaly, like RHW said. Take the test again.
Car needs to be warm, not cold. Keep it on for 15 minutes, then let it cool for 10-15 minutes and take the compression test.
Test should be taken by depressing the gas pedal FULLY before you start cranking, crank it 10-15 times, and check your figure. Remember to make sure the compression dial's valve is functional, so that it holds your reading steady. It's a 2 people job, don't even try to do it alone. :P
All of them being low is an anomaly, like RHW said. Take the test again.
I will go to him and tow the car to another mechanic I guess. Or ask him about the car needing to be heated and see what he says.
I forgot to stop by today but I'll go sometime tomorrow
