Happy new Owner
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Happy new Owner
Hi everyone, I am new here and wanted to just jump right in....
just bought my first Benz, an 88 300E. It drives nice and handles well, but comes with hopefully only a few problems.
So, I need you alls help. How can I determine if my rear brakes are squeaking or it is something else. I hear a squeaking noise at any speed while moving, and less while I am accelerating. Once my foot is off the gas, I hear the squeak, squeak, squeak... sounds like metal rubbing. Second, is it cheaper to convert to R-134, or keep the R-12, the car needs freon. Third and lastly, when I turn my wheel hard to the left I hear a metal grindy, clunky, kinda noise, any ideas? Sorry for the long letter, but excited and I really want to get rolling. Thanks for any and all advice...
Greg
just bought my first Benz, an 88 300E. It drives nice and handles well, but comes with hopefully only a few problems.
So, I need you alls help. How can I determine if my rear brakes are squeaking or it is something else. I hear a squeaking noise at any speed while moving, and less while I am accelerating. Once my foot is off the gas, I hear the squeak, squeak, squeak... sounds like metal rubbing. Second, is it cheaper to convert to R-134, or keep the R-12, the car needs freon. Third and lastly, when I turn my wheel hard to the left I hear a metal grindy, clunky, kinda noise, any ideas? Sorry for the long letter, but excited and I really want to get rolling. Thanks for any and all advice...
Greg
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 302
Likes: 1
From: Salem, OR
08 Lexus GS350 AWD. 08 Lexus RX350 AWD - wife's. 94 MBZ E320 - still have it.
Do your brakes squeak when you apply very light pressure on the pedal? Is the squeaking does not stop under a very light pressure, it could be something else.
Definately cheaper to convert to R134. Everybody recomends replacing the receiver drier. I recently converted my neighbor's Volvo to R134 without replacing it, and the AC works great.
Arnie.
Definately cheaper to convert to R134. Everybody recomends replacing the receiver drier. I recently converted my neighbor's Volvo to R134 without replacing it, and the AC works great.
Arnie.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
From: Middlefield, CT
1994 E320
Best off taking the car to a Benz mechanic for A/C work. They have to change out then receiver-drier, TXV, and possibly pressure switches. Have them add UV dye to the system so you can watch for leaks. The W124s were built with evaporators that leak. Big $$$ to replace.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 33
From: Germany
'00 S320 W220, '98 A160 W168/ sold in 2005 '86 260 E W124 '90 260E W124
Hi and welcome to the club.
Your questions my recommendations:
the squeking is most probably not originating from the brakes rather the rubber bearings of the rear axle. Two possibilities to fix it. If the rubber pads are visibly briddle and gone you need to replace them (4). If your DIY workshop is only failrly equipped dont try it yourself, its a tough job w/o a lift. To find out whether the rubber bearings are causing the squeaking noise spray them heavily with WD40 and see wheather the noise goes. It can even be all you need to do if the bearings are not broken. Also spray in a second go (if necessary) the rubber bushings of the sway bars.
Brake pads and disks are simple to replace yourself.
The convertion of R12 to R134a is well worth it, since it's becoming almost impossible to get R12 (at reasonable $). Also have the dryer and the compressor oil changed. R12 A/C's use mineral oil, R134a use polyesther oil. Best to go is the MB shop since they have all the tools and also grant a warranty on their work. Converting A/C from R12 to R134a, I think, is not a DIY job, at least from environmental point of view since the R12 needs to be carefully disposed. Actually I had both of my cars converted, and the offer from MB was by far the best (but this was in Germany)
The P/S noise is normally caused by a "loose" belt. When the steering wheel is put in int extreme positions the load on the belt is the highest, caused by the P/S pump, and may start the belt to slip, and make noises. If you have the A/C converted at the dealer, have the belt swapped also, since you dont know how old it is anyway.
Your questions my recommendations:
the squeking is most probably not originating from the brakes rather the rubber bearings of the rear axle. Two possibilities to fix it. If the rubber pads are visibly briddle and gone you need to replace them (4). If your DIY workshop is only failrly equipped dont try it yourself, its a tough job w/o a lift. To find out whether the rubber bearings are causing the squeaking noise spray them heavily with WD40 and see wheather the noise goes. It can even be all you need to do if the bearings are not broken. Also spray in a second go (if necessary) the rubber bushings of the sway bars.
Brake pads and disks are simple to replace yourself.
The convertion of R12 to R134a is well worth it, since it's becoming almost impossible to get R12 (at reasonable $). Also have the dryer and the compressor oil changed. R12 A/C's use mineral oil, R134a use polyesther oil. Best to go is the MB shop since they have all the tools and also grant a warranty on their work. Converting A/C from R12 to R134a, I think, is not a DIY job, at least from environmental point of view since the R12 needs to be carefully disposed. Actually I had both of my cars converted, and the offer from MB was by far the best (but this was in Germany)
The P/S noise is normally caused by a "loose" belt. When the steering wheel is put in int extreme positions the load on the belt is the highest, caused by the P/S pump, and may start the belt to slip, and make noises. If you have the A/C converted at the dealer, have the belt swapped also, since you dont know how old it is anyway.
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Super Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 696
Likes: 4
From: Motor City
95 E320 Cabriolet, 108K
On the a/c, the first order of business is to identify how the freon leaked out and repair the leak. If it is determined that it was only a slow leak (a bit every year over a number of years) in an otherwise healthy system, then the system can be more cheaply serviced by topping off with r-12 and a UV dye (for future leak detection).
A/C service can be a DIY project, except you need access to a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, and a source of compressed air to flush out the system for conversion to HFC-134. You also need to know what you're doing. Surfing through aircondition.com can get you started.
If you decide to DIY and have the proper tools, we can help you here.
A/C service can be a DIY project, except you need access to a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, and a source of compressed air to flush out the system for conversion to HFC-134. You also need to know what you're doing. Surfing through aircondition.com can get you started.
If you decide to DIY and have the proper tools, we can help you here.
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