1994 E320 Wagon front control arm question
06-30-2013, 05:27 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1994 E320 Wagon
1994 E320 Wagon front control arm question
Hello!
Yesterday I had a ball joint failure at about 40 mph with vehicle full of kids. Not Cool!!
I cant figure how to remove the two 22mm bolts that hold the medial portion of control arm to frame. I have removed the nuts on both and realized there was washer...preventing bolt from turning. Bolt thread has a long groove in it which seems like bolt needs to be banged back out but Im unsure.
Please advise.
(the 94/95 model had the later control arm design with ball joint attached. I must remove entire arm)
Thanks
Yesterday I had a ball joint failure at about 40 mph with vehicle full of kids. Not Cool!!
I cant figure how to remove the two 22mm bolts that hold the medial portion of control arm to frame. I have removed the nuts on both and realized there was washer...preventing bolt from turning. Bolt thread has a long groove in it which seems like bolt needs to be banged back out but Im unsure.
Please advise.
(the 94/95 model had the later control arm design with ball joint attached. I must remove entire arm)
Thanks
06-30-2013, 06:33 PM
#2
Senior Member
After you've removed the spring, those bolts should just push out.
A long screw driver will give you enough leverage to pry the arm into alignment so the bolts move freely.
You also have to remove the caliper, brake disc, abs sensor, and spin the dust shield to get it apart.
There is a picture tutorial, google away.
A long screw driver will give you enough leverage to pry the arm into alignment so the bolts move freely.
You also have to remove the caliper, brake disc, abs sensor, and spin the dust shield to get it apart.
There is a picture tutorial, google away.
06-30-2013, 07:14 PM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1994 E320 Wagon
thank you for reply.
the two 22mm bolts about 4 or 5 inches in length seem to be locked in place. They do not turn as there is another lock washer behind the head of the bolt. I knocked the end of bolt with hammer several times but it would not it would not budge. I tried moving the arm up and down several times to allow for alignment while banging but nothing.
The spring and ball joint post cam down without having to remove brakes or any other items not sure if I will have to remove those items during reassemble. The 95 and 95 had a different ball joint/arm configuration than earlier w124's.
Maybe there seized in the rubber busing or something and I should use heat on bolts to help move???
first time is the hardest...
the two 22mm bolts about 4 or 5 inches in length seem to be locked in place. They do not turn as there is another lock washer behind the head of the bolt. I knocked the end of bolt with hammer several times but it would not it would not budge. I tried moving the arm up and down several times to allow for alignment while banging but nothing.
The spring and ball joint post cam down without having to remove brakes or any other items not sure if I will have to remove those items during reassemble. The 95 and 95 had a different ball joint/arm configuration than earlier w124's.
Maybe there seized in the rubber busing or something and I should use heat on bolts to help move???
first time is the hardest...
06-30-2013, 09:14 PM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1994 E320 Wagon
The two bolts in reference are the "eccentric bolts" that set aspects of alignment. I am having trouble sliding these out in order to replace arm with attached new ball joint. Here is a pic of the front with grove. I failed to mark the orientation of the grove before removing washer. I have banged on the end of this bolt but she wont slide out.
06-30-2013, 11:20 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
It seems like they might be corroded inside the bushing tubes and therefore stuck in place. Squirt a little Liquid Wrench or other penetrating oil into the groove in the bolt so that in can go down inside. Put the nut back on the end of the bolt (only a turn or two) so that you don't peen the end over, then bang away. Once it breaks loose you should be able to remove the nut and drive it out with a punch or large Phillips screwdriver.
Examine the bolts for damage to the threads once they are out. If the threads are worn or damaged, especially at the point where the bolt passes through the slot in the chassis, replace the bolts. Resist the temptation to lubricate the bolts when you reassemble the control arm - MB specifically sates not to lubricate the bolts when you replace them.
Lastly, if you are sourcing an aftermarket control arm, search this forum for my posts on this forum concerning issues with the wrong bushings being installed from the factory (the trouble I had was with Febi). The same LCA fits the W201, the R129, and the W124, but each application uses different bushings. The aftermarket manufacturers seem to have a complete lack of quality control, so caveat emptor.
- FD
Examine the bolts for damage to the threads once they are out. If the threads are worn or damaged, especially at the point where the bolt passes through the slot in the chassis, replace the bolts. Resist the temptation to lubricate the bolts when you reassemble the control arm - MB specifically sates not to lubricate the bolts when you replace them.
Lastly, if you are sourcing an aftermarket control arm, search this forum for my posts on this forum concerning issues with the wrong bushings being installed from the factory (the trouble I had was with Febi). The same LCA fits the W201, the R129, and the W124, but each application uses different bushings. The aftermarket manufacturers seem to have a complete lack of quality control, so caveat emptor.
- FD
07-01-2013, 01:15 AM
#7
Senior Member
If by ball joint failure you mean the wheel twisted, then it put a lot of lateral pressure. You'll have to "unlock" it if it was bent into place.
Large hammer and chisel ??
Try knocking the arm in the forward direction ??
Does the arm move up and down? Try setting the ball joint on a stand and knocking the inner end of the arm ??
They're most likely corroded inside the tube; heat, PB, and brute force!
Or pry the inner washer and the bolt head apart. If it's seized in the tube, the eccentric washer is holding it in place. A screw driver and the inner frame gives you lots of leverage to muscle the arm and turn the washer.
Large hammer and chisel ??
Try knocking the arm in the forward direction ??
Does the arm move up and down? Try setting the ball joint on a stand and knocking the inner end of the arm ??
They're most likely corroded inside the tube; heat, PB, and brute force!
Or pry the inner washer and the bolt head apart. If it's seized in the tube, the eccentric washer is holding it in place. A screw driver and the inner frame gives you lots of leverage to muscle the arm and turn the washer.
Trending Topics
07-01-2013, 09:31 PM
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1994 E320 Wagon
thank you for the suggestions!!!
I have a donor vehicle, 95 wagon. I am transferring the control arm from that to my 94...I know.. I know. Anyway the bolts came out of the arm on the 95 with ease, a few taps and bolts slid right out. Bolts were covered with antiseize on shaft. Ball joint dosent seem very strong (can move with thumb) but at least its together and the inner bushing seem clean.
Broken arm on 94 moves up and down, I changed shock mount up top as it seemed pretty wooped.
Will try heat on bolts to hopefully loosen up the rubber bushings biting on bolts.
Thank you folks again for your suggestions. I'll let you know how it turns out as I'm almost half way.
I have a donor vehicle, 95 wagon. I am transferring the control arm from that to my 94...I know.. I know. Anyway the bolts came out of the arm on the 95 with ease, a few taps and bolts slid right out. Bolts were covered with antiseize on shaft. Ball joint dosent seem very strong (can move with thumb) but at least its together and the inner bushing seem clean.
Broken arm on 94 moves up and down, I changed shock mount up top as it seemed pretty wooped.
Will try heat on bolts to hopefully loosen up the rubber bushings biting on bolts.
Thank you folks again for your suggestions. I'll let you know how it turns out as I'm almost half way.
