AMG Aero II 2-piece ET 44 18x8.5 questions
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1994 E320
AMG Aero II 2-piece ET 44 18x8.5 questions
I've tried to read all the search results but can't find a definitive answer. I have to drive tomorrow for 2+ hours to buy the (AMG Aero II 2-piece 18x8.5 ET44) wheelset and I don't want to waste my time or money if this wheelset will not work for my W124. My plan is to use 225/40/18 for tires. You guys think this wheelset would work? Anyone running the same specs?
My future plan is to lower the car as well but not slammed. I don't mind rolling the fenders or using spacers to make it fit.
I am very new to the W124 scene and I just picked up the car last month. It's a black 94 E320 with 44k original miles.
My future plan is to lower the car as well but not slammed. I don't mind rolling the fenders or using spacers to make it fit.
I am very new to the W124 scene and I just picked up the car last month. It's a black 94 E320 with 44k original miles.
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
You may have interference with the 8.5 x ET44.
The fact that they are 18" diameter indicates that they were never intended for a 124 chassis.
AMG only made 16", 17" upgraded wheels for the 124.
Optimum width and offset requiring no fender rolling is around 8 x ET35.
The fact that they are 18" diameter indicates that they were never intended for a 124 chassis.
AMG only made 16", 17" upgraded wheels for the 124.
Optimum width and offset requiring no fender rolling is around 8 x ET35.
Last edited by RBYCC; Sep 17, 2013 at 08:26 AM.
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2003 CL600 2005 745Li
I've tried to read all the search results but can't find a definitive answer. I have to drive tomorrow for 2+ hours to buy the (AMG Aero II 2-piece 18x8.5 ET44) wheelset and I don't want to waste my time or money if this wheelset will not work for my W124. My plan is to use 225/40/18 for tires. You guys think this wheelset would work? Anyone running the same specs?
My future plan is to lower the car as well but not slammed. I don't mind rolling the fenders or using spacers to make it fit.
I am very new to the W124 scene and I just picked up the car last month. It's a black 94 E320 with 44k original miles.
My future plan is to lower the car as well but not slammed. I don't mind rolling the fenders or using spacers to make it fit.
I am very new to the W124 scene and I just picked up the car last month. It's a black 94 E320 with 44k original miles.
Last edited by 1995E320Cab; Sep 17, 2013 at 12:27 PM.
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i had a set of aero II knockoffs (1 piece) in ET44 and they didn't fit. The rim face is very flat and when i bolted them up to the car, the front wheels ended up compressing the brake caliper so the car wouldn't move. I would have put on spacers but then they would have rubbed the fenders so i cut my losses, sold the wheels, and got new wheels with ET35.
not to say that you couldn't get them to fit with the right combo of spacers, fender rolling etc., but this was just my experience.
not to say that you couldn't get them to fit with the right combo of spacers, fender rolling etc., but this was just my experience.
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2003 CL600 2005 745Li
you can read more about the car here ....http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27595
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
you can read more about the car here ....http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27595
I prefer handling, speed and staying within the limits of the suspension geometry.
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1994 E320
Well I pulled the trigger and bought the AMG Aeros and I am able to stick em in the car with minimal problems.
8mm spacer used in the front to clear the shocks. The front tires are 225/40/18.
No problems in the rear and I am running 235/40/18.
I will post some pics as soon as the car is lowered.
8mm spacer used in the front to clear the shocks. The front tires are 225/40/18.
No problems in the rear and I am running 235/40/18.
I will post some pics as soon as the car is lowered.
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Just responding to the white car with the strange stance that you introduced.
Not a fan of making a Merc look like a VW..handling and safety aside....
OP probably hasn't driven the car over varying road surfaces and attempted full lock on the steering.
He already indicates"minimal problems" which will become "maximum problems" when he lowers the car.
Spacers to "fit' wheels are not the best idea even if you are using hub centric styles.
What has he achieved in using a wheel not suited to his chassis?
Last edited by RBYCC; Sep 23, 2013 at 11:10 PM.
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I said minimal problems because I have to use an 8mm spacer. But once the spacers were installed, no rubbing at all even with full lock on U-turns. I also drove the car with 2 adults and 3 kids with no rubbing even on big dips on the freeway.
I agree that driving on 17" is more plush and quieter but these rims are worth it. Handling is definitely degraded with the 18" wheels.
Dropping the car 1.25" may or may not present problems. We will see. The wheels are still tucked in the wheel wells so there is still room there. Also, I can still roll the fenders if necessary. The ideal width for the front is 7.5 ET35. The rear's has more potential though. I don't see a problem fitting a 9" width wheels at the back with the right offset.
I agree that driving on 17" is more plush and quieter but these rims are worth it. Handling is definitely degraded with the 18" wheels.
Dropping the car 1.25" may or may not present problems. We will see. The wheels are still tucked in the wheel wells so there is still room there. Also, I can still roll the fenders if necessary. The ideal width for the front is 7.5 ET35. The rear's has more potential though. I don't see a problem fitting a 9" width wheels at the back with the right offset.
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From: Del Mar, CA
2003 CL600 2005 745Li
Just responding to the white car with the strange stance that you introduced.
Not a fan of making a Merc look like a VW..handling and safety aside....
OP probably hasn't driven the car over varying road surfaces and attempted full lock on the steering.
He already indicates"minimal problems" which will become "maximum problems" when he lowers the car.
Spacers to "fit' wheels are not the best idea even if you are using hub centric styles.
What has he achieved in using a wheel not suited to his chassis?
Soory man, just trying to show OP a W124 with the wheels he asked about.
Last edited by 1995E320Cab; Sep 24, 2013 at 01:13 AM.
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
I said minimal problems because I have to use an 8mm spacer. But once the spacers were installed, no rubbing at all even with full lock on U-turns. I also drove the car with 2 adults and 3 kids with no rubbing even on big dips on the freeway.
I agree that driving on 17" is more plush and quieter but these rims are worth it. Handling is definitely degraded with the 18" wheels.
Dropping the car 1.25" may or may not present problems. We will see. The wheels are still tucked in the wheel wells so there is still room there. Also, I can still roll the fenders if necessary. The ideal width for the front is 7.5 ET35. The rear's has more potential though. I don't see a problem fitting a 9" width wheels at the back with the right offset.
I agree that driving on 17" is more plush and quieter but these rims are worth it. Handling is definitely degraded with the 18" wheels.
Dropping the car 1.25" may or may not present problems. We will see. The wheels are still tucked in the wheel wells so there is still room there. Also, I can still roll the fenders if necessary. The ideal width for the front is 7.5 ET35. The rear's has more potential though. I don't see a problem fitting a 9" width wheels at the back with the right offset.
Good luck fitting 9" at the back.
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
The pic you posted is of a lowered 124 with the wheels being discussed.
My comment was to the point of the poor camber required to tuck the wheel in a lowered car.
The more you lower the more camber you get.
There is no camber adjustment.
The OP thinks he can fit 9" wide in the rear without any sheet metal mods.
1.25' drop that the OP indicated will not give enough camber to tuck the wheels without sheet metal mod..
I run 17x10 ET7 AMG / OZ three piece with 295/35R17 on the rear with a 1.5" drop.
It required a AMG widebody modification to fit the tires.
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From: Del Mar, CA
2003 CL600 2005 745Li
Maybe we have a failure to communicate.
The pic you posted is of a lowered 124 with the wheels being discussed.
My comment was to the point of the poor camber required to tuck the wheel in a lowered car.
The more you lower the more camber you get.
There is no camber adjustment.
The OP thinks he can fit 9" wide in the rear without any sheet metal mods.
1.25' drop that the OP indicated will not give enough camber to tuck the wheels without sheet metal mod..
I run 17x10 ET7 AMG / OZ three piece with 295/35R17 on the rear with a 1.5" drop.
It required a AMG widebody modification to fit the tires.
The pic you posted is of a lowered 124 with the wheels being discussed.
My comment was to the point of the poor camber required to tuck the wheel in a lowered car.
The more you lower the more camber you get.
There is no camber adjustment.
The OP thinks he can fit 9" wide in the rear without any sheet metal mods.
1.25' drop that the OP indicated will not give enough camber to tuck the wheels without sheet metal mod..
I run 17x10 ET7 AMG / OZ three piece with 295/35R17 on the rear with a 1.5" drop.
It required a AMG widebody modification to fit the tires.
As I said I was just just trying to show the OP a W124 with the wheels he asked about, what he does from there is up to him.
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1994 E320
All I am saying is its possible. Maybe not advisable but possible. I am not trying to disagree with everything that you said because I know how knowledgable you are with MB cars.
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
With wider rims the main interference is usually on the suspension side.
Wheels have to be pushed out either with spacers or offset.
Then you interfere with the inner wheel arch.
Best to add the AMG fender spacers on the front and roll the rear wheel arches.
I ran 18x8 ET35 monoblocks for years with no problems.
Just trying to save you having problems
Ed A.
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Well I pulled the trigger and bought the AMG Aeros and I am able to stick em in the car with minimal problems.
8mm spacer used in the front to clear the shocks. The front tires are 225/40/18.
No problems in the rear and I am running 235/40/18.
I will post some pics as soon as the car is lowered.
8mm spacer used in the front to clear the shocks. The front tires are 225/40/18.
No problems in the rear and I am running 235/40/18.
I will post some pics as soon as the car is lowered.
I am now running these adjustable camber arms. Super cheap but very solid and worth it. Got an alignment and the shop was able to bring the whole car into spec and it drives and handles much better.
Looking forward to seeing the pictures!
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1994 E320
Hey! Is this car a daily driver? I lowered mine, and had negative camber in the rear. Nothing insane, but it was there. I regularly stuck my head under the car to check the tread and never noticed anything fishy until i decided to rotate the wheels... on the rears, at the very edge where the tread meets the sidewall, there was a narrow (like 1 or 2 cm) wide band of wear. but it was almost worn through the tire! I had to scrap tires that had 80% of their life left because of that bit of wear.
I am now running these adjustable camber arms. Super cheap but very solid and worth it. Got an alignment and the shop was able to bring the whole car into spec and it drives and handles much better.
Looking forward to seeing the pictures!
I am now running these adjustable camber arms. Super cheap but very solid and worth it. Got an alignment and the shop was able to bring the whole car into spec and it drives and handles much better.
Looking forward to seeing the pictures!
Another question. How important is it to change the shocks if I change the springs? The reason I'm asking is that I lowered my other car 2" and used the same oem shocks and it hasn't given me problems whatsoever even after 130,000 miles. That other car is a Honda Fit. I was just wondering if OEM mercedes shock will hold if I change to hr sport springs.
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That looks like a great deal and worth it. I have the car in the paint shop right now having the gray body panels painted. I am having it painted same color as the body. As soon as I get it back, I am lowering it with hr springs and then I'll post pictures.
Another question. How important is it to change the shocks if I change the springs? The reason I'm asking is that I lowered my other car 2" and used the same oem shocks and it hasn't given me problems whatsoever even after 130,000 miles. That other car is a Honda Fit. I was just wondering if OEM mercedes shock will hold if I change to hr sport springs.
Another question. How important is it to change the shocks if I change the springs? The reason I'm asking is that I lowered my other car 2" and used the same oem shocks and it hasn't given me problems whatsoever even after 130,000 miles. That other car is a Honda Fit. I was just wondering if OEM mercedes shock will hold if I change to hr sport springs.
The most popular choice is bilsteins, and then koni, for lowering. eEven with bilstein, you have the Sport and the HD. They are more or less the same, except the sport is a little shorter than the HD, and bilstein says its designed for lowered cars. they cost a bit more though. a LOT of people just get the HD and there seems to be no reliability issues at all so either way you would be safe.
Long story short, you would probably be okay to leave them, but if you have it in your budget i would get new ones, especially if you're driving the car regularly...
hey, do you mind if i ask how much they're hitting you for the paint? is it a national chain type place or an independent shop? thanks!
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There's a lot of speculation with fitments on here, you can fit those wheels with a 3mm spacer on the front and no spacers on the rear on 235/40/18s.
If you keep the stock spring pads the drop will only be 1.25" on H&Rs. If you drop it more I recommend using Bilstein Sports or Koni shocks.
How important is it to change the shocks if I change the springs?
