Nasty Front End Squeek
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Oakville, Ontario Canada
'89 300E
Nasty Front End Squeek
I think I have a worn suspension or steering bushing in the left front. It started suddenly as I pulled away from a light yesterday. Now whenever I turn the wheel, either direction, or go over bumps, there's a lound groaning noise. I think it's one of the big A-arm bushings, but I'm not sure. It's really cold here (Toronto) just now, so I just glanced at it this morning. When I lift the car manually it groans. Any clues? Is this an easy DIY?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Middlefield, CT
1994 E320
The suspension bushings wear out over time. The bushings on control arms can be replaced separate from the arm, however, the bushings in the links are not available separately. You have to replace the entire link.
These seem to make more noise in the winter, and are much quieter in the summer.
These seem to make more noise in the winter, and are much quieter in the summer.
Thread Starter
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From: Oakville, Ontario Canada
'89 300E
Thanks Jer. Turns out to be lower ball joint. I picked up a pair from the dealer for $26 CDN apiece. I was surprised they were so affordable. Is that the normal ball joint price at most dealers?
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From: Oakville, Ontario Canada
'89 300E
Right you are. My mechanic fixed me up for $300 CDN. Had the car back good as new same day. I could never have done it myself, as the ball joints are pressed into the A-arms.
Best of luck!
Best of luck!
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 29
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From: Bristol, UK
MB E280
Dogy mecanics in Bristol UK. 
I went to the garage and showed them the noice i spoke about earlier. When i picked the car up in the afternoon they had replaced the damper and coil. Nice,, ok, 20 min the sound is back.
I removed the wheel and had a look myself. I can find nothing wrong. Going back to that shop tomorrow..
Any advice? The mecanic said something about a "little" worn steering box. But why does the grinding sound only come when the wheel is on and on the floor. If you test with the wheel of, there is no sound. If this was the steering box, i would expect sound 24*7 ?? or?
The sound is right wheel as well, when you turn it left and right at about 70-80% steering. The steering box is in the middle of the car, and the sound comes from right wheel. =(
Any advice, i think that workshop don't know what they are doing.
Daniel
I went to the garage and showed them the noice i spoke about earlier. When i picked the car up in the afternoon they had replaced the damper and coil. Nice,, ok, 20 min the sound is back.
I removed the wheel and had a look myself. I can find nothing wrong. Going back to that shop tomorrow..
Any advice? The mecanic said something about a "little" worn steering box. But why does the grinding sound only come when the wheel is on and on the floor. If you test with the wheel of, there is no sound. If this was the steering box, i would expect sound 24*7 ?? or?
The sound is right wheel as well, when you turn it left and right at about 70-80% steering. The steering box is in the middle of the car, and the sound comes from right wheel. =(
Any advice, i think that workshop don't know what they are doing.
Daniel
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From: Oakville, Ontario Canada
'89 300E
Calling Bamberger
I really don't know. I suspect Mr. Bamberger would be the one to ask on this one. In my case, the sound began suddenly as I pulled away from a stop. All was fine, and suddenly there was this loud metallic groaning as I turned the wheel and as I went over bumps. Probably the ball joint housing had suddenly slipped from its pressure fit and was moving around in the A-arm, likely with the actual ball and socket seized.
Bamberger, your advice is more than welcome.
Bamberger, your advice is more than welcome.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Aridzona
'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
Yes, the idler arm bushing is probably shot. This is an easy fix and does not take that much time if you are into DIY. It is also relatively cheap at ~$26US.
-D
-D
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Reading, UK
C280
Froodmine.
I have just replaced the balljoints on my 280 and I then noticed that I was getting a bit of steering shake at about 80mph+.
I took the car into a wheel alignment company who reset the wheel alignment on all four wheels by laser at a cost of $35 or so. The car was transformed. Talking to the mechanic who did the work he mentioned that the toe-in on my car was way out due to the new ball joints being fitted.
It may be worth just getting your alignment checked out as it may give you an even better ride and stop your tyres/tires wearing on the outer edges.
I have just replaced the balljoints on my 280 and I then noticed that I was getting a bit of steering shake at about 80mph+.
I took the car into a wheel alignment company who reset the wheel alignment on all four wheels by laser at a cost of $35 or so. The car was transformed. Talking to the mechanic who did the work he mentioned that the toe-in on my car was way out due to the new ball joints being fitted.
It may be worth just getting your alignment checked out as it may give you an even better ride and stop your tyres/tires wearing on the outer edges.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Germany
'00 S320 W220, '98 A160 W168/ sold in 2005 '86 260 E W124 '90 260E W124
Re: Calling Bamberger
Originally posted by Froodmine
I really don't know. I suspect Mr. Bamberger would be the one to ask on this one. In my case, the sound began suddenly as I pulled away from a stop. All was fine, and suddenly there was this loud metallic groaning as I turned the wheel and as I went over bumps. Probably the ball joint housing had suddenly slipped from its pressure fit and was moving around in the A-arm, likely with the actual ball and socket seized.
Bamberger, your advice is more than welcome.
I really don't know. I suspect Mr. Bamberger would be the one to ask on this one. In my case, the sound began suddenly as I pulled away from a stop. All was fine, and suddenly there was this loud metallic groaning as I turned the wheel and as I went over bumps. Probably the ball joint housing had suddenly slipped from its pressure fit and was moving around in the A-arm, likely with the actual ball and socket seized.
Bamberger, your advice is more than welcome.
But you need jack up the car and turn the wheel and have someone to listen close to bearing. Sometimes it only appears to be the joint. It can also be the rubber seat of the shocks in the fendor dome. The sounds is pretty similar and distributed of the metal assembly, so from inside the car relatively hard to tell from where the sound originates.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 571
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From: Upstate NY
400E (177k)
Speak of it and it will come. Today i was making a left into my school parking lot and i hear the loud groaning noise. I thought it was from my power steering pump, but i guess not.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4
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From: NOTTINGHAM UK
300D 1992
front end noise
Daniel UK,
from what you've said, its sounds to me like your bottom ball joint has gone. The grease inside the bellows contraption/boot dries out over time and causes friction and hence the noise. It will need replacing but there is a medium term solution. Firstly, clean and pierce the boot with an engineers (very small ) screwdriver and through this hole inject WD40 (it comes with a straw just sharpen the end). When the boot "inflates" pull the straw out being careful not get sprayed in your eyes. Wipe around the hole and seal the hole with a bit of rubber compound from a bicyle puncture repair outfit.
If you make an effort to buy your serviceables from a dealership, they'll get to know you and may offer free advice on any worrying problems you'll experience That's where i got this tip from. The main dealer parts are not that expensive and what's more, they will ensure you get exactly the parts you need.Try them, you'll be surprised.
from what you've said, its sounds to me like your bottom ball joint has gone. The grease inside the bellows contraption/boot dries out over time and causes friction and hence the noise. It will need replacing but there is a medium term solution. Firstly, clean and pierce the boot with an engineers (very small ) screwdriver and through this hole inject WD40 (it comes with a straw just sharpen the end). When the boot "inflates" pull the straw out being careful not get sprayed in your eyes. Wipe around the hole and seal the hole with a bit of rubber compound from a bicyle puncture repair outfit.
If you make an effort to buy your serviceables from a dealership, they'll get to know you and may offer free advice on any worrying problems you'll experience That's where i got this tip from. The main dealer parts are not that expensive and what's more, they will ensure you get exactly the parts you need.Try them, you'll be surprised.
