Will I be able to remove my coil springs with just a spring compressor, or will I need to drop the "A" arm?
Thanks, Jim

 

For the front springs, a spring compressor is highly suggested.


The rear springs can easily be removed by removing the inner bolt for lower control arm. Leaving the rear tire on the car in the rear actually helps immensely in providing a counterweight.

 

Thank you very much,
Jim

 

I'm going to be looking into replacing the shocks and spring myself as well.

When replacing the rear springs and letting the lower control arms come down, I am assuming that the rear spring at this point will just fall out?

I have seen a Klann spring compressor to remove the front springs and hear that the conventional spring compressor won't work. Anyone have any additional insight?

 

For the rear springs when I removed them, I got some pictures from any forum member, here are a couple. When you detach the lower control arm pivot bolt, you can guide the lower arm down with a small floorjack. Another tip is to remove the plastic cover that surrounds the bottom of the control arm. If you leave it on, it is hard for the jack to grip the arm. From memory, the springs will come out very easily with a small tug. I don't recall them just falling out. But there is not tension in the assembly when the spring is removed.

As for the front, I've attached a picture of a CLK using a conventional spring compressor, this person was able to get the compressors on both sides of the front coil spring. On W210, the sway bar placement makes it near impossible to do the same thing.

Another tip, I broke or released the upper ball joint on the upper control arm of my W210. I then raised the front of the car as high as I could with a large floorjack. I disconnected the sway bar links and even the tie rod ends. I tried to let the lower control arm droop down far enough to remove the coil. Even when the lower arm was all the way down and my foot pushing it down further, the spring still had enough compression to keep it in. If you remove the pivot bolts of the lower arm, I have read that you can remove the coil that way. I did not try because I was unsure if I could raise the lower arm back into the correct position.

You can rent the proper coil spring compressor from performance products. You will have to call, it is not in the catalog for rent. It costs about $90, to have it for a week.

Note: These pictures are NOT mine. I am not claiming any type of ownership and only want to share the details of the photos to all forum readers to help them with these types of suspension questions.


Hope this helps.

 

I too have tried to remove the front springs on my w210 without success. I have used to external spring compressors and have not been able to get enough compression to get the springs out. What type of compressor does pp have for rent? I have though of trying an internal compressor next. Would this work? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Ok this is my question now that I am trying to remove my OEM springs in the front with absolutely no success. I have not given up enough to get the right spring compressor.
Will it be possible to partially compress the spring using external spring compressor, then disconnect ball joint from upper control arm, disconnect ball joint on steering tie rod, and disconnect droplink from sway bar so the control arm is free, then lower it and remove the spring? Any help would be appreciated.

 

raymond for jack removal instructions.cargo straps help also.

 

thanks ohlord, will do. This lowring thing turned out to be more than I asked for but I am still looking forward to the results.
If anyone else has done this successfully please post so I know it is doable. thank you all.

 

right behind you, ohlord...

try unfastening B (torx) and C (lower shock mount)

that will give you another inch of clearance and you should be able to tilt out
the OEM spring. also critical is the spacing of the plates. you need to get
them as far apart as possible, so that maximum # of coils are being compressed.

 

thanks raymond, just sent you a pm. I am not using mb spring compressor btw. Also the shock is completely out.

 

Although I have not had my w210 for a while, I did not actually remove the stock front springs, I had cut about 1turn and 1/4 coil off while the spring was installed. As the picture in the previous post indicated, I removed the shock, sway bar link and undid the tie rod end. I also "broke" unseated the upper ball joint and jacked up the front of the car as high as I could. The front coil springs are extremely long in length, the lower control arm was pushed down as far as I could get it and the spring still had some tension on it. I used some cheap external compressors to clamp down about 3 or 4 coils to release enough tension so I could use a cut off wheel die grinder to cut the lower coil. Even then, when the spring still had enough tension to create a "pop" when the coil was cut. Renting the ~$90 tool is probably a must if you want actually remove the springs.

Similar Topic - A couple of weeks ago, I changed out the springs on a c230 w203. The front suspension uses struts. My friend bought me the Harbor Freight hydraulic strut spring compressor. You mount the entire strut assembly to the compressor and compress the spring with a hydraulic ram. This tool was a must! Do not try to compress MBZ springs with cheap strut compressors, they will most likely bend or fail. Even the w203 springs were very long in length, the pre-tension on MBZ springs is incredible.

 

When I did my front springs I used a cargo load strap wrapped around the spring to keep it somewhat compressed. I then disconnected the lower A-arm bolts where it piviots on the frame and slowly lowered the A-arm with a floor jack. Came out pretty easy. I've mentioned this before but this is not the preferred way to do this swap. Using the Klann style spring compressor is much safer so if you try the floor jack method make sure you know what you are getting into. Lining the A-arm back up into place with the new springs is a little tricky but with a long tapered punch you can get the holes lined up and the bolts back in. Really not too difficult if you are a handy DIY'er.

 

Thank you for all of your help.
Is there a DIY for undoing the control arm pivot bolts?
Is it just as simple as undoing the nut and hammering out the bolt? what size wrench is needed?
Thank you.

 

Put the Vogtlands in this past weekend. such HEAVY work but got it done. Ended up taking out pivot bolts on all control arms and lowering them using a floor jack. For the fronts with the control arm on the floor you still need something to compress it a little to get it out so I put a thick steel plate on top of the spring perch, one somewhere half way down between the coils and using a long bolt and nut I compressed the spring to pull it up from the control arm then pushed it to the side and undid the bolt. The spring slides out. The key is not to let it bind to anything on its way out so it doesn't "pop".
Rears were easy drop but linning up the control arm pivot bolt was harder cause it sits at a wierd angle. Took some maneuvering with a couple of jacks and some hammering to get the bolt back in.
Though more work, I felt safer doing the springs this way as opposed to a spring compressor loaded with all that compression. These springs are really something with the amount of energy they can store when compressed. Woudn't wanna be near one when it's compressed. Releasing the control arm is safer in the way that you are letting the spring expand which is releasing stored energy and therefore less to worry about.
If anyone attempts this I suggest supporting the control arm with a good floor jack to keep it from slipping or shifting and to prevent the spring from poping and forcing its way out in a dangerous way.
Car looks sweet with the drop, will post pics soon. Although as Ohlord predicted, the KYB shocks take away the Mercedes feel. It is still an improvement for me since I switched from worn shocks. I figure I'll drive on the KYB's for a year then get the Bilstein sporst next year. Car handles SO MUCH better. Body roll is close to none. Bumpy ride compared to original springs but I love the handling.
Car had #2 pad in front and #4 in the rear so I just went with those knowing from some of the posts here that Vogtlands are more aggressive on the drop. And it works out because I like the rear a little higher than the front so it doesn't end up looking like a 70's mustang.
I'd like to thank everyone here for posting their experience and support. Wouldn't have had the ***** to do this without you guys' help.

Offtopic: I peeled the seal on the left spring perch and you guessed it: rust rust rust. So now I don't feel safe driving the car. Right side looked okay. Thinking of taking the car to body shop and have them clean and weld the seam to reinforce it and maybe weld some reinforcement wedges before it breaks.

Next step: New tires (4x 245 50 16's), balance and eventually alignment once springs settle.

 

Did you cut the spring from bottom?

 

I believe he stated it was from the bottom.

 

Sorry, missed this reply, have not had this car for many years.... Yes, cut the 1.25 turn of coil out from the bottom. No endorsement to this method, just how I did it at the time. On a side note, I periodically see the car in my neighborhood, same guy has it. Does not appear to have sagged in over 10 years.