Okay, the pictorial DIY Oil Change (Three Parts)
07-11-2005, 07:33 PM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Okay, the pictorial DIY Oil Change (Three Parts)
Note, this post is in several parts to get around the "five pic limit" that makes no sense. So this is Part 1 of 3. To make it easier to reference each part of this thread, the pictures are numbered respectively for each section, and the pictures relative to each section follow that section. Confused? You won't be. 
As promised, here's the DIY oil-change pictorial thread. I prefer to drain oil, so that's what this thread entails. If you prefer to pump it out, I won't disagree with you.
One place I might disagree is: Which oil? To some extent that's a personal choice and has been discussed ad infinitum on various threads on this and other forums. As you might expect, there's lots of misinformation out there as well. However, no matter which brand you use, the oil HAS to meet the spec for your car, and since 1998 the Mobil1 specified by MBZ is 0W40. Some folks say that Mobil1's 15W40 is okay, but since I've never seen it I can't comment. But the key is to look for the note that the oil meets MBZ's 229.5 spec, as is visible on the FIRST PIC, a bottle of 0W40. You WON'T find that spec on their 0W30, 5W30 or 10W30 -- not because they're not fully synthetic (they are) -- but because the additive pack and formulation is different for the 0W40 in order to meet MBZ's specification.
Are we cool? Great, let's get into it.
The SECOND PIC details what you'll need. Note (1) the O-rings to the left of center, they come with the filter kit and (2) the pair of drain plug gaskets (you only need one, I had two on hand) to their right. I also set my composite filter wrench into the picture.
If you're draining the oil, raise the left side of car...when you see the drain plug location you'll understand why you don't simply raise the front of the car. If you don't have a handy curb as shown in the THIRD PIC, you can raise the left side with a pair of jackstands, and remember: NEVER WORK UNDER A CAR THAT IS SUPPORTED BY A JACK.
Next, remove the access cover (see PIC FOUR). This shot is from the right side, the bolts are 8mm head. 1/4" drive is more than enough for these little bolts. There are two on each side, four fasteners total.
Ahhhh...there's that drain plug (PIC FIVE). You'll need a 13mm wrench or socket to remove it. Have a LARGE drain pan handy, you'll get more than 2 gallons of oil out. Note that the placement of the plug in the middle of the side of the oil pan means if you lift the front of the car, oil will pool in the back of the pan and you're not really changing the oil, just diluting it.
Okay, that's my five pics, so we'll see you in Part 2...
As promised, here's the DIY oil-change pictorial thread. I prefer to drain oil, so that's what this thread entails. If you prefer to pump it out, I won't disagree with you.
One place I might disagree is: Which oil? To some extent that's a personal choice and has been discussed ad infinitum on various threads on this and other forums. As you might expect, there's lots of misinformation out there as well. However, no matter which brand you use, the oil HAS to meet the spec for your car, and since 1998 the Mobil1 specified by MBZ is 0W40. Some folks say that Mobil1's 15W40 is okay, but since I've never seen it I can't comment. But the key is to look for the note that the oil meets MBZ's 229.5 spec, as is visible on the FIRST PIC, a bottle of 0W40. You WON'T find that spec on their 0W30, 5W30 or 10W30 -- not because they're not fully synthetic (they are) -- but because the additive pack and formulation is different for the 0W40 in order to meet MBZ's specification.
Are we cool? Great, let's get into it.
The SECOND PIC details what you'll need. Note (1) the O-rings to the left of center, they come with the filter kit and (2) the pair of drain plug gaskets (you only need one, I had two on hand) to their right. I also set my composite filter wrench into the picture.
If you're draining the oil, raise the left side of car...when you see the drain plug location you'll understand why you don't simply raise the front of the car. If you don't have a handy curb as shown in the THIRD PIC, you can raise the left side with a pair of jackstands, and remember: NEVER WORK UNDER A CAR THAT IS SUPPORTED BY A JACK.
Next, remove the access cover (see PIC FOUR). This shot is from the right side, the bolts are 8mm head. 1/4" drive is more than enough for these little bolts. There are two on each side, four fasteners total.
Ahhhh...there's that drain plug (PIC FIVE). You'll need a 13mm wrench or socket to remove it. Have a LARGE drain pan handy, you'll get more than 2 gallons of oil out. Note that the placement of the plug in the middle of the side of the oil pan means if you lift the front of the car, oil will pool in the back of the pan and you're not really changing the oil, just diluting it.
Okay, that's my five pics, so we'll see you in Part 2...
Last edited by Gregs210; 07-11-2005 at 07:59 PM.
07-11-2005, 07:41 PM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Okay, the pictorial DIY Oil Change (Pt. 2)
In part 2, we're out from under the car as the oil drains.
So let's start to work on the filter assembly. PIC ONE below is the engine, and PIC TWO is a tighter shot with the filter housing wrench atop the housing cover. You'll note that the engine cover is still in place, it's easier if you remove it. I just did this shot to more clearly identify the filter location for any newbies out there.
This cap-style filter wrench has a 3/8" square drive, so connect a ratchet and short extension and just loosen it and keep loosening. The o-ring will usually make it feel pretty tight until it's almost completely unthreaded. Have two clean, lint-free rags handy before you lift it out, one to catch any drips and the other to cover the hole so no dirt (or tools or parts!) can accidentally fall in. The latter will definitely ruin your day and your wallet.
Pull the entire filter assembly out, keeping it straight until the last of it clears; it extends down into the engine more than a foot. It's pretty durable, but it's composite, so don't manhandle it: I can't imagine it's inexpensive to replace. If you wish you can wipe some of the old dirty oil out of the inside of the filter hole before you cover the hole up. Once the assembly is out, PIC THREE is what it looks like.
Remove the old filter by pulling it straight down the shaft of the assembly. You can twist it a little to get it started if that helps. Next, remove the four O-rings and wipe the threads, shaft and O-ring grooves with a clean, lint-free cloth. Since you'll be installing new O-rings, you can grab the old ones with a pair of small needle-nose pliers to make it easier to get them off. In PIC FOUR the filter and O-rings have been removed.
Now we're in a waiting period until the drips from the drain hole slow enough that we can re-install the drain plug. The drain plug gasket is actually a copper crush washer, so you should always use a new one. They're stunningly cheap, probably the least expensive thing on the car. PIC FIVE is a shot of the old and new gaskets; if you look closely you can see the difference as well as a slight deformity in the old one.
Reinstall the drain plug and tighten securely. Since you should have your torque-wrench handy anyway for the filter housing, you may as well torque it. While we're down here, we'll reinstall the access cover. I've found it's easier to start the two rear bolts first, and then pivot the cover forward to start the front two bolts. Don't tighten any of them until all four are started, then position the cover with one hand and tighten them with the other, one at a time. You don't need to overpower these, I'd actually recommend using a nut-driver.
And we'll see you in Part 3.
So let's start to work on the filter assembly. PIC ONE below is the engine, and PIC TWO is a tighter shot with the filter housing wrench atop the housing cover. You'll note that the engine cover is still in place, it's easier if you remove it. I just did this shot to more clearly identify the filter location for any newbies out there.
This cap-style filter wrench has a 3/8" square drive, so connect a ratchet and short extension and just loosen it and keep loosening. The o-ring will usually make it feel pretty tight until it's almost completely unthreaded. Have two clean, lint-free rags handy before you lift it out, one to catch any drips and the other to cover the hole so no dirt (or tools or parts!) can accidentally fall in. The latter will definitely ruin your day and your wallet.
Pull the entire filter assembly out, keeping it straight until the last of it clears; it extends down into the engine more than a foot. It's pretty durable, but it's composite, so don't manhandle it: I can't imagine it's inexpensive to replace. If you wish you can wipe some of the old dirty oil out of the inside of the filter hole before you cover the hole up. Once the assembly is out, PIC THREE is what it looks like.
Remove the old filter by pulling it straight down the shaft of the assembly. You can twist it a little to get it started if that helps. Next, remove the four O-rings and wipe the threads, shaft and O-ring grooves with a clean, lint-free cloth. Since you'll be installing new O-rings, you can grab the old ones with a pair of small needle-nose pliers to make it easier to get them off. In PIC FOUR the filter and O-rings have been removed.
Now we're in a waiting period until the drips from the drain hole slow enough that we can re-install the drain plug. The drain plug gasket is actually a copper crush washer, so you should always use a new one. They're stunningly cheap, probably the least expensive thing on the car. PIC FIVE is a shot of the old and new gaskets; if you look closely you can see the difference as well as a slight deformity in the old one.
Reinstall the drain plug and tighten securely. Since you should have your torque-wrench handy anyway for the filter housing, you may as well torque it. While we're down here, we'll reinstall the access cover. I've found it's easier to start the two rear bolts first, and then pivot the cover forward to start the front two bolts. Don't tighten any of them until all four are started, then position the cover with one hand and tighten them with the other, one at a time. You don't need to overpower these, I'd actually recommend using a nut-driver.
And we'll see you in Part 3.
07-11-2005, 07:48 PM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Okay, the pictorial DIY Oil Change (Pt. 3)
Okay! We're done crawling around; let's wash our hands so we don't introduce any dirt to the process. At this stage we can go ahead and fill the crankcase with fresh oil. And here's the coolest tip: see that cavernous hole where we removed the filter assembly? (PIC ONE and PIC TWO) Let's just pour the oil right down that. You're much less likely to spill when your target is this big. 
If you've been lucky enough to find the 5-quart container, you'll have to be careful as you pour it in as you can pour it in faster than it will run through to the crankcase. Quart bottles are no problem -- just remove the cap and pour 8 of them in. Retain one cap and set it aside.
When you get to the last quart pour half of the quart into the filter assembly hole (there's a little translucent window on the edge of the oil bottle that is marked with gradation lines) and then pour some oil in the cap you set aside until the cap is about 1/2 full. Re-cap the 1/2 bottle so it stays clean. At some point and certainly by a few thousand miles you'll need it to top off the oil.
Returning to the filter assembly, slide the new filter onto the housing. It will be tight going on, you can use a little fresh oil from the cap on the inner edge of each end of the filter to make it a little easier. Make sure it fully seats, PIC THREE shows it fully seated. Note the spacing by the arrow.
Toss the three smaller O-rings in the cap of oil, and then dip your fingers in to get some oil and use it to lube the largest O-ring. Slide it up the assembly and seat it in the groove above the threads. Now install each of the other O-rings, in size order, with the next largest down to the smallest.
Slide the filter assembly back down the hole until the threads touch. Turn it until it seats; the O-ring will make it feel pretty firm all the way, I always have to use a 3/8" ratchet just to snug it up. As firm as it is, you'll still feel it when it seats. Back it off just a tiny bit and use a torque wrench to secure it to 18 lb/ft. Since it's composite, you definitely don't want to overtighten it.
Check the oil on the dipstick (no real reason, it's just nice to see it). If you weren't counting your oil empties, it's also a nice check to ensure you got all 8.5 quarts in there.
Start the engine and check for leaks around the filter housing if you're particularly concerned. If there are any, turn off the engine, find the large O-ring you left off and find someone to dope-slap you.
For the rest of you, reinstall the engine cover, close the hood and turn off the engine. If you're at a service point and are completing the rest of the checklist, then reset the service interval (check your manual). Congratulations! You're all done.
Take care, folks, and enjoy the ride,
Greg
If you've been lucky enough to find the 5-quart container, you'll have to be careful as you pour it in as you can pour it in faster than it will run through to the crankcase. Quart bottles are no problem -- just remove the cap and pour 8 of them in. Retain one cap and set it aside.When you get to the last quart pour half of the quart into the filter assembly hole (there's a little translucent window on the edge of the oil bottle that is marked with gradation lines) and then pour some oil in the cap you set aside until the cap is about 1/2 full. Re-cap the 1/2 bottle so it stays clean. At some point and certainly by a few thousand miles you'll need it to top off the oil.
Returning to the filter assembly, slide the new filter onto the housing. It will be tight going on, you can use a little fresh oil from the cap on the inner edge of each end of the filter to make it a little easier. Make sure it fully seats, PIC THREE shows it fully seated. Note the spacing by the arrow.
Toss the three smaller O-rings in the cap of oil, and then dip your fingers in to get some oil and use it to lube the largest O-ring. Slide it up the assembly and seat it in the groove above the threads. Now install each of the other O-rings, in size order, with the next largest down to the smallest.
Slide the filter assembly back down the hole until the threads touch. Turn it until it seats; the O-ring will make it feel pretty firm all the way, I always have to use a 3/8" ratchet just to snug it up. As firm as it is, you'll still feel it when it seats. Back it off just a tiny bit and use a torque wrench to secure it to 18 lb/ft. Since it's composite, you definitely don't want to overtighten it.
Check the oil on the dipstick (no real reason, it's just nice to see it). If you weren't counting your oil empties, it's also a nice check to ensure you got all 8.5 quarts in there.
Start the engine and check for leaks around the filter housing if you're particularly concerned. If there are any, turn off the engine, find the large O-ring you left off and find someone to dope-slap you.
For the rest of you, reinstall the engine cover, close the hood and turn off the engine. If you're at a service point and are completing the rest of the checklist, then reset the service interval (check your manual). Congratulations! You're all done.Take care, folks, and enjoy the ride,
Greg
Last edited by Gregs210; 07-11-2005 at 08:05 PM.
07-12-2005, 02:36 AM
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Again, another splendid job Gregs210. I saved your previous how-to as
standalone PDF and filed in my M-B folder. This one will go there as well
for quick retrieval and viewing when needed. I love the poh-boy car lift
and I hope I won't be needing to travel too far to find the appropriate
curb/location near the house. :-)
standalone PDF and filed in my M-B folder. This one will go there as well
for quick retrieval and viewing when needed. I love the poh-boy car lift
and I hope I won't be needing to travel too far to find the appropriate
curb/location near the house. :-)
07-12-2005, 09:48 AM
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11 ML350W2 / 17 GLC300
Great explanation. Only addition I would add is to torque the drain plug to 25nM = 18 lb-ft. That sump is aluminum and I sure wouldn't want to over torque the plug and ruin the threads. That surely would ruin one's wallet for some time.
07-12-2005, 11:27 AM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Doh!
Thanks, Jim.
I didn't realize I'd left that spec off, it's the same as the filter housing cover so you don't even have to reset the click-style wrench.
I didn't realize I'd left that spec off, it's the same as the filter housing cover so you don't even have to reset the click-style wrench.
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07-12-2005, 11:32 AM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
It's not a poh-boy...
Originally Posted by raymond g-
Again, another splendid job Gregs210. I saved your previous how-to as
standalone PDF and filed in my M-B folder. This one will go there as well
for quick retrieval and viewing when needed. I love the poh-boy car lift
and I hope I won't be needing to travel too far to find the appropriate
curb/location near the house. :-)
standalone PDF and filed in my M-B folder. This one will go there as well
for quick retrieval and viewing when needed. I love the poh-boy car lift
and I hope I won't be needing to travel too far to find the appropriate
curb/location near the house. :-)
The only caveat is that if you're in either a busy area or one with snooty neighbors, you run the risk of getting a ticket for being illegally parked. Thanks for the feedback, folks.
Greg
07-12-2005, 07:34 PM
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E430
Great job documenting all of the steps!
For those of you who may not desire the crawl under the car steps, might want to try a suction type of device to extract the oil from the dipstick.
There are several on the market and all work the same, some nicer than others.
Been using a device called a Topsider. It's original intent is for the extracting fluids from boat engines. (oil, etc).
All the oil comes out every time. Total time to do an oil change is around 20mins.
Cheers,
Travis
For those of you who may not desire the crawl under the car steps, might want to try a suction type of device to extract the oil from the dipstick.
There are several on the market and all work the same, some nicer than others.
Been using a device called a Topsider. It's original intent is for the extracting fluids from boat engines. (oil, etc).
All the oil comes out every time. Total time to do an oil change is around 20mins.
Cheers,
Travis
07-12-2005, 10:32 PM
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2000 E320
You've done it again Greg. Fabulous job documenting the oil change procedure! This will make me think twice about taking it somewhere to have it done when I should be able to do it myself!
This will make me think twice about taking it somewhere to have it done when I should be able to do it myself!
07-13-2005, 08:19 PM
#11
I Didn't Need a Dope-Slap, but...
I could have used your pointers before I changed the oil last weekend. I did use Mobil 1 0W-40 (I bought it at Auto Zone). I was also prepared with an M-B filter, filter wrench and drain plug copper crush washer. Did you notice they give you an extra small o-ring? I wonder why.
What I didn't know was:
- Conversion from 25 Nm is 18 ft.-lb., and also applies to the drain plug. I torqued the filter to about 23 ft lb. and tightened the drain plug by feel. No harm - no foul, but I'll know for next time.
- I didn't wet the o-rings with oil, or pour half a quart down the filter housing.
I was able to drain the oil without raising the car. I have a large flat oil container that sits low to the ground, and I just slide on under.
I found the four bolts holding the plastic access cover were stripped by the dealer. They are made of a soft metal. I'll have to replace them.
Do you replace the air filter every time you do replace the oil? If not, how often?
BTW, off topic, but I also installed a wood/leather steering wheel and shift knob last weekend. Without your instructions (and my wife's help to torque the center bolt) I couldn't have done it! Thanks. Just a quick note - the airbag allen bolts are size T27 Torx, not T30. I had to use the Torx driver because one bolt refused to come off using the 5/32 allen wrench. The wrench actually stripped the top of the bolt and I thought I was a goner. One trip to Sears and a whole slew of Torx drivers later, I found the right driver and the bolt came right off. I never disconnected the battery because I had to rotate the steering wheel to fit the Torx driver in, but I made sure I put the key in my pocket.
Thanks again for your great posts. What's our next project gonna be?
What I didn't know was:
- Conversion from 25 Nm is 18 ft.-lb., and also applies to the drain plug. I torqued the filter to about 23 ft lb. and tightened the drain plug by feel. No harm - no foul, but I'll know for next time.
- I didn't wet the o-rings with oil, or pour half a quart down the filter housing.
I was able to drain the oil without raising the car. I have a large flat oil container that sits low to the ground, and I just slide on under.
I found the four bolts holding the plastic access cover were stripped by the dealer. They are made of a soft metal. I'll have to replace them.
Do you replace the air filter every time you do replace the oil? If not, how often?
BTW, off topic, but I also installed a wood/leather steering wheel and shift knob last weekend. Without your instructions (and my wife's help to torque the center bolt) I couldn't have done it! Thanks. Just a quick note - the airbag allen bolts are size T27 Torx, not T30. I had to use the Torx driver because one bolt refused to come off using the 5/32 allen wrench. The wrench actually stripped the top of the bolt and I thought I was a goner. One trip to Sears and a whole slew of Torx drivers later, I found the right driver and the bolt came right off. I never disconnected the battery because I had to rotate the steering wheel to fit the Torx driver in, but I made sure I put the key in my pocket.
Thanks again for your great posts. What's our next project gonna be?
07-14-2005, 06:17 PM
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'97 MB E420 Sport/'88 MR2
Originally Posted by livetodrive
Do you replace the air filter every time you do replace the oil? If not, how often?
It depends where you drive your car mostly..people who drive on dirt roads more tend to change the air filter more often.
07-14-2005, 08:32 PM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
I'm humbled...
Originally Posted by livetodrive
Did you notice they give you an extra small o-ring? I wonder why.
The really small O-ring goes near the end of the filter assembly, it's easy to miss. You should have had four of greatly disparate sizes. Check the third pic in part 2 of this thread. If you missed it and you're sure there's one on there, I'd leave it for next time. If not, just yank the assembly when it's cool and check it out.
The two reasons I raise the car are, first and foremost, to give myself a little more working room and to put a lean into the engine to run the oil to the drain side. If you change it hot, you need the extra room just to feel comfortable.
I'm glad you didn't have an issue with the steering wheel and battery thing. I've heard about settings issues, shorts, all kinds of stuff, and with an airbag in place, eek. Very pleased you didn't have any negative issues thereafter. But you missed all the fun having to reset everything.
Last thing, on the air filter. I'm a K&N guy so long as you properly maintain them. I don't live in a dry or dusty area, and I clean it and properly re-oil it every 12M or 12K miles. Search the posts you'll find lots of negative about K&N, I tend to believe with the other folks that it's user error (too much oil, not letting it dry enough first, etc.). I've a friend who bought two, so he's always got one properly cleaned, oiled and dried ready to install. That's overkill, but that's him, too.
If you do paper replacements -- nothing wrong with them -- I'd say inspect every 12M/12K, replace as necessary, probably check it at least twice that often if you're in a dry/dusty area. I do take the time to clean out the airbox when I change the air filter.Take care and enjoy the DIY stuff!
Greg
Last edited by Gregs210; 07-14-2005 at 08:43 PM.
07-15-2005, 02:53 PM
#14
Where did you get the drain plug copper crush washers from? I just recently did an oil change on my E420 (it's much harder to get to the oil filter by the way) and my filter kit did not come with the drain plug washer.
07-15-2005, 03:42 PM
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Drain plug washers
Hi, Tony.
Sorry if there was any confusion. The oil filter kit includes only the filter and the O-rings, not the washer. You can get the washer at any dealer and some auto-parts stores. Since I order most of my stuff on line for a good discount, that's also where I get the washers (the pair I last ordered cost me a whole 26 cents...for both of them.)
My three favorite places to order MBZ parts on-line are, in order of preference:
www.autohausaz.com
www.autopartswarehouse.com
http://parts.mbz.org
The first two provide free shipping at the $50 price point, the last at $75.
Take care and enjoy maintaining the ride,
Greg
Sorry if there was any confusion. The oil filter kit includes only the filter and the O-rings, not the washer. You can get the washer at any dealer and some auto-parts stores. Since I order most of my stuff on line for a good discount, that's also where I get the washers (the pair I last ordered cost me a whole 26 cents...for both of them.)
My three favorite places to order MBZ parts on-line are, in order of preference:
www.autohausaz.com
www.autopartswarehouse.com
http://parts.mbz.org
The first two provide free shipping at the $50 price point, the last at $75.
Take care and enjoy maintaining the ride,
Greg
07-15-2005, 10:22 PM
#16
Extra 0-ring
I received two o-rings of the next to smallest size. I just didn't use the second one. BTW, the steering wheel is not perfectly straight after I swapped it. I thought the steering wheel fits only one way into the two slots on the hub. Is this so, or can it be installed at any position on hub? If it can only be installed one way, I imagine a wheel alignment is needed. Is this right?
Update to this post: Feeling a little insecure, I double-checked that all four o-rings were in place, which they were. Regarding the steering wheel, M-B indicated the steering wheel can be moved to any position, and did not recommend adjustment by wheel alignment (which could be done) because that would throw off the steering angle sensor. I had to rotate the steering wheel one notch to the left, and now it's fine.
Update to this post: Feeling a little insecure, I double-checked that all four o-rings were in place, which they were. Regarding the steering wheel, M-B indicated the steering wheel can be moved to any position, and did not recommend adjustment by wheel alignment (which could be done) because that would throw off the steering angle sensor. I had to rotate the steering wheel one notch to the left, and now it's fine.
Last edited by livetodrive; 07-16-2005 at 07:06 PM.
12-25-2010, 06:54 PM
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ml320
When I removed the old filter there were only 4 on it!!!
Why does the filter come with an extra o ring?
05-31-2011, 02:55 PM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
A. wrong forum
B.Go to the SL forum for your years model.
C. They will be far better at telling you the diy for that platform.
D. www.autohausaz.com has the ball joints
E.If no diy on your forum try alldata diy
F. Be sure to get it aligned on a hunter machine when done with the procedure
C. They will be far better at telling you the diy for that platform.
D. www.autohausaz.com has the ball joints
E.If no diy on your forum try alldata diy
F. Be sure to get it aligned on a hunter machine when done with the procedure
01-04-2015, 08:26 PM
#22
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Fort Hood, TX
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2000 e320 4dr sedan
Just a quick note to everyone here. I recently purchased an in good condition 2000 e320 sedan from auction in Dallas for cheap...I mean, real cheap. The only real issue with it is that it suffers from what I have come to learn is the all too common 722.6 limp-home-mode up-shifting issue involving the conductor plate, connector, etc. I'm a fairly accomplished wrench-bender and there isn't too much that scares me. I have gained so much knowledge from this website researching this situation as well as oil change tips, filter suggestions and the like that I felt obligated to create an account and let you all know how great this website is and how blessed I am to have all of you out there to coach and mentor me. All the parts are ordered and I'm waiting to take delivery. Should be a piece of cake. I'm just hoping my Innova 3140d scanner will clear the codes when I'm done so I can get this thing out for a spin.
01-04-2015, 09:16 PM
#23
Senior Member
Just a quick note to everyone here. I recently purchased an in good condition 2000 e320 sedan from auction in Dallas for cheap...I mean, real cheap. The only real issue with it is that it suffers from what I have come to learn is the all too common 722.6 limp-home-mode up-shifting issue involving the conductor plate, connector, etc. I'm a fairly accomplished wrench-bender and there isn't too much that scares me. I have gained so much knowledge from this website researching this situation as well as oil change tips, filter suggestions and the like that I felt obligated to create an account and let you all know how great this website is and how blessed I am to have all of you out there to coach and mentor me. All the parts are ordered and I'm waiting to take delivery. Should be a piece of cake. I'm just hoping my Innova 3140d scanner will clear the codes when I'm done so I can get this thing out for a spin.
