E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Found a new MAF on ebay

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Old 10-18-2005, 04:50 PM
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John Deere
Found a new MAF on ebay

$160. Not bad, eh?

We'll see if it works of course. Now, I thought I read somewhere that the check engine warning will clear after 3 ignition starts. Is that true or do I have to pay someone to clear the codes? I don't believe there are any Autozones in my area to do this gratis.

Also, how can the dealer justify upwards of 2 hours of labor for a replacement that takes 10 minutes, according to those who have done it themselves?
Old 10-18-2005, 05:15 PM
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If the MAF is the culprit causing your check engine light, it should clear after you have driven the car sufficiently to activate all of the emissions controls. On my '97 E420 and my '98 C230, it took usually 45 minutes worth of driving to make that happen. I have never heard of the "3 start" scenario. That does not sound accurate to me.

Many autozones or advance auto parts will plug in computer and remove your codes for free. If you have not fixed the problem, the light will reappear after all the emission control systems activate. I went through all of this with my C230 and purchased a code reader. It is a nice tool to have when you go look at a used car. It freaks the owner out when you whip out the code reader.
Old 10-18-2005, 06:44 PM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Maf

What codes did you retrieve before you purchased the MAF? Need to know before you start throwing money in search of a solution...
Old 10-19-2005, 10:53 AM
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I agree with Staplegun---the codes will tell you if you need O2 sensors or plugs and wires, for example. That $160 price is good for MAF, but I hope it's brand new. I've had 3 ebay MAFs in the $50 range be bad: one was bad right off the bat, one lasted 2 weeks, one about 6 months. I eventually paid about $225 for a new one. You should check with AutoZone or other parts stores in your area, if not in person, at least by phone. Ask if they have an OBDII code reader, and understand that what you need is to have the codes read, not the light reset. Their motivation is that once the codes are read, you might purchase your parts there---I'm sure many non-MB owners do---and they'll reset the light for you anyway, AFTER you get the codes. If you get P0170 and P0173 Fuel trim malf bank 1 or 2, that MAF will come in handy.
Originally Posted by Ala-benz
I went through all of this with my C230 and purchased a code reader. It is a nice tool to have when you go look at a used car. It freaks the owner out when you whip out the code reader.
I'm curious Ala, do these used cars you look at have the CEL lit, or does the reader have something to say even when it's not?
Old 10-19-2005, 10:58 AM
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Eddie, the MAF I bought is described as brand new. Of course, we shall see when I get my hands on it.

My mechanic already pulled the code and measured the spec of the old MAF and found it to be bad. So it has to be that.
Old 10-19-2005, 11:05 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Maf

A OBD II code reader is a worthwhile investment for these cars, they have significantly come down in price and you can read/clear the codes on your own....even Sears has 'em in stock. The MAF is ridiculously easy to replace, akin to replacing the filters on my C43 in difficulty level. Try to do it yourself, you'll learn and won't get taken to the cleaners by an 'indy' shop or the $tealer$hip....
Old 10-19-2005, 11:13 AM
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Where do you connect the reader to? Is there a plug under the dash?
Old 10-19-2005, 11:32 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
OBD II location

I have a 1998 C43 and yours should be in the same location. There's a panel on the driver's side, I would say the panel underneath the light switch that runs the length of the console meeting the center console...there will be a little plastic flap covering it, and will be to the right of the steering wheel on this panel.
Old 10-19-2005, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by StapleGun
A OBD II code reader is a worthwhile investment for these cars, they have significantly come down in price and you can read/clear the codes on your own....even Sears has 'em in stock. The MAF is ridiculously easy to replace, akin to replacing the filters on my C43 in difficulty level. Try to do it yourself, you'll learn and won't get taken to the cleaners by an 'indy' shop or the $tealer$hip....
RBrenton88: I meant to also tell you how simple the MAF replacement is; I'd say that if you're capable of putting on and taking off your own ski boots, you can do it. Also, where did you get your MAF for $160? My "new" W203 has 41K on it, so I'm sure I'll be in the market before long.
The OBDII scan tool plugs in under the steering column. I don't have one, but I'm lucky to have an indy mechanic who does, and he never charges me for little things like that. I've heard of adapters that people have purchased that, along with the appropriate software, allow them to use their laptops or palm pilots as an OBDII!
Old 10-19-2005, 11:42 AM
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Lol! I used to have a hard time getting ski boots on.

I got the MAF from a guy on ebay. I don't know how he got a "new" one for so cheap, as all the online resellers are at least $240. Luckily nobody else was interested in that particular part at the time. I was the sole bidder.
Old 10-19-2005, 12:24 PM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
MAF on ebay

I paid $200 with shipping for a Bosch OEM MAF on the bay so that sounds about right.

Click on this link, there's info on the OBDII reader I bought and the ebay seller I used.

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...&highlight=MAF

Last edited by StapleGun; 10-19-2005 at 12:27 PM.

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