so is the car in Hong Kong or New York??? 8-)

 

where did you buy your hid kit from? and was it hard to install? Does it only go in the place for low beams? Are the city lights the same?

 

new york, it has a new york license plate.

 

the car is in ny, the car i have to drive in hk is a 1998 s320. lwb. my unckel never sells a car he just keeps it parked, so thats the car i get to drive. I'll look for some pics of it. Its white in mint condition. He even has the plates on the car so that he can drive from hong kong to china. as for the hid kit. I bought it at big boys toys for 817 after tax and instalation. the xenonx are in the low beams and fog lights soon/ after christmas i'll have a 10000K bulb in the high beams, i want to be SEEN!

 

I think you would be better off with a Kaixen kit, not only are they cheaper ($385 a set) but they are of superior quality (infact they were OEM manufacturers for Hella and Phillips)

anyways good luck with ur project

 

i'm pretty sure 10,000k is only the reference to the frequency the light is discharged at, which means that number is a reference for color only, not output.

 

so theirs no difference in briteness, just color. well the what the hell do i put in to the high beams then

 

"What is the difference between a bulb that is 3800K or 5000K?
The differences between these bulbs is the colour temperature rated in K (Kelvin). This rating system is not rated by the brighter the bulb the higher the Kelvin rating.

Think of the colour rating scale as a rainbow instead. A standard incandescent bulb in the traditional shape that is common to the old style reading and coffee table lamps is rated at about 2400K to 2600K. A standard halogen headlamp bulb is rated at about 3000K to 3200K. Early generation HID systems where rated at about 4300K to 4500K and current generation HID systems are rated at about 4000K to 4250K. Just as a reference point, sun light at high noon on a clear day is rated at about 5000K to 5500K depending on the season, level of pollution in the air and your location on the planet. A cloudy day at high noon can be rated at about 6000K to 7200K.

Now that you have all those figures, let's think of the rainbow concept that we mentioned earlier beginning with the red side which is the incandescent bulb rated at 2400K to 2600K. As you move through the spectrum you will go through orange, yellow, white and then start to go into the blue and finally ultra violet. As the human eye sees light we all note that blue is actually the hardest to see with. This of course is due to the fact that blue light has the shortest wave length and is not recommended for good vision. Hence the reason that most current generation of HID systems have gone to a lower Kelvin rating. Rainy weather is the worst to be using bluish light in because the wet surfaces actually absorb the blue light and give you little return of information on what is actually there, sight wise.

The other factor into why something is brighter is a simple one, output wattage or intensity. Just because the sun is the brightest thing around doesn't mean it has the highest Kelvin rating. Cloudy days are dimmer than sunny days yet the cloudy days have a higher Kelvin rating. Confused enough? We hope after you read this a few times you will understand, most usually understand it the second time around.

So to summarize the answer to the question, a higher Kelvin rating has nothing to do with brightness as far as headlamp bulbs are concerned. Wattage and design of the headlamp bulbs and housings have everything to do with brightness and output. Also keep in mind that all higher wattage versions of any stock wattage bulbs tend to last a shorter time. "

 

i think true white is 7,000k?

 

hmm, spending 300+850+bulbs for Xenon is not worth it. I use silverstars in fogs and headlights, and some blueish white bulbs for city lights, and it looks the same as that. I'll take some pictures and show you.

 

well thanks i got everything the first time. My bulbs are a blueish white, spent the day angleing them properly. after that the moment of truth came, i took it to the car wash and the dident leak i'm really happy. Well thanks for everything guys, :: also the kit + instalation for 4 xenon bulbs came out to 817 dollers:: anyway being that the damn bulbs put me back a little bit along with car insurence and christmas shopping, books for school, tuition my cars getting finished in mid jan- early febuary. It kinda tickes me off but theirs only so much money a growing company can make and only so much you can make on the side. but thats to everyone

 

yeah im using silverstars. good enough for me and u can tell the difference between stock and silverstars. plus im not spending loads of money on hid's when i can put into something else. plus if a bulb goes on hid's there alot of money. to each own though and thats why we do what WE want to our cars.

tommy ur car is coming along nice, keep it up...

 

thanks man, i'm just waiting for my rear tails, still. I'm hopeing this week. also i think i can afford to get my lip spoiler painted and mounted this week. i hope.

 

If I were you, my priority would be rims. Rims and lowering make the biggest difference.

Really, all I think you need is Tint, lower 1.2 inch or so, rims, those tails that you ordered, the spoiler that you have ready, and a flat hood emblem from dfw.

 

Wow, this is some good stuff.

So Tommy, about how long did it take you to get to 165?

Oh, and MB uses 4300k stock HID bulbs.

 

hey tommygunn, sorry to hear you're in a funk. hope things work out.

tnx for the info on the powerchip. geez those are some wild claims...28hp
gain??!! i hope you get a chance to dyno your ride before and after so that
you can determine the original baseline from which to compare.

how about you and I take a step back and start over, aw-ite? this forum
definitely is not lame and is a great source of info from various 210 owners.
the mods we make can be extremely helpful to others with same model.

it's understandable ....even presumed...that there is a bit of uhm, embellishment
which goes on here. but we should all try to be factual about our claims so that
the information is helpful and doesn't lead others into purchasing items which
may end up not helping at all.

hey, who knows, maybe we'll hook up sometime if i'm in your part of town.

peace, muh brutha

 

hey sounds good, as for the tints and the rims and the drop. NYC is a ***** the roads are more busted then a hooker in a third world country. If i droped it and lord knows how i drive, i'd have a bent radiator, oil pan riped off, 4 bent rims, and somehow my trany would be in the street somewhere. But i still wana lower. but i mean one thing leads to another.

 

i have a body shop if u want to be recommended to them. if interested ill pm u the info.

 

Don't lower it that much, i'm only talking about a maybe 1.2 inch lower which makes a huge difference. Or maybe even just change the spring pads to #1 all the way around.

 

I was seriously considering that, but thats for when i get the rims. My brabus "FAKE" but look exzactly like the real deal rims

 

Sorry for the bad pictures, it was taken from my q phone.

 

hey i dont even have a digital camra cuz i spent all my money on performance parts and my nokia 8801