Regular Oil vs Synthetic ??
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From: Temperance, MIchigan
Regular Oil vs Synthetic ??
I was about to get my first oil change and the dealership stated that all the proir owner's changes were made there. Anyhow, I stated to use synthetic and the Tech said NO WAY!
That the car has 80k miles on it and this would be a bad move in changing.
Personally I see it as a gain not a set back with all the advances of synthetic.
He repeated that he wants to use only regular 5-40 motor oil in this car.
Told them forget it I will be back later.
Anyway, What do you all think about putting a synthetic in a 1997 E 320 in-line 6 ?
Good, bad, comments please
That the car has 80k miles on it and this would be a bad move in changing.
Personally I see it as a gain not a set back with all the advances of synthetic.
He repeated that he wants to use only regular 5-40 motor oil in this car.
Told them forget it I will be back later.
Anyway, What do you all think about putting a synthetic in a 1997 E 320 in-line 6 ?
Good, bad, comments please
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2007 S-550, 2001 E-430 & 1997 E-420
Mobil 1 Synth 0-40
I am using Mobil 1 synth 0-40 on my 1997 E-420, work great. Actually I get 1-2 miles more per gallon with Synth oil and also in winter it start like champ.
I switch to 0-40 synth at 110K miles. No problem and no leaks as been told by many on this forum.
My E-420 with 119 engine now have 131K miles and no problem with Mobil One Synth 0-40 oil.
I switch to 0-40 synth at 110K miles. No problem and no leaks as been told by many on this forum.
My E-420 with 119 engine now have 131K miles and no problem with Mobil One Synth 0-40 oil.
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From: South San Francisco, CA
2001 E320 Sport
I would make the switch because synthetic overall just provides more protection. In all honesty 80k is not very high to make a switch. A lot people even switch later than that. The only reason I can see why the tech was against the switch is that since synthetic oil molecules are finer they are more able to get through leakage spots and a car with your miles may have leaks/weeps (I really doubt it though). For example if you have a "weep" on one of the gaskets, the synthetic will increase that leak. That is why it is best to make sure you take care of any leaks before making the switch, but it is not necessary (make sure you keep the oil topped off at least). Just keep in mind synthetic oil does NOT cause oil leaks it simply points them out. Hopefully that helps.
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From: Baltimore MD
MB, BMW
i am sticking with SJ/SM grade dino oil in my 97 E420 because
1. the car came with dino oil from the factory
2. car has never seen synthetic oil in 10 years/110k miles, why switch now
3. i'd rather replace dino oil more often than run on synthetic for 10-12k miles
4. however little improvement in gas mileage is well off-set by the higher cost of synthetic oil
5. any of the oldschool MBs which ran 300K+ miles always ran on dino. good enough for me.
1. the car came with dino oil from the factory
2. car has never seen synthetic oil in 10 years/110k miles, why switch now
3. i'd rather replace dino oil more often than run on synthetic for 10-12k miles
4. however little improvement in gas mileage is well off-set by the higher cost of synthetic oil
5. any of the oldschool MBs which ran 300K+ miles always ran on dino. good enough for me.
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John Deere
Dino is fine if you change it at more frequent intervals. MB switched to synthetic with the '98 year+ in order to stretch the intervals to 12-15k miles with the advent of the FSS system.
Bottom line, if using regular oil, change it according to the old recommendations (not Jiffy Lube's suggestions) and you will be fine.
Bottom line, if using regular oil, change it according to the old recommendations (not Jiffy Lube's suggestions) and you will be fine.
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From: Temperance, MIchigan
Dino is fine if you change it at more frequent intervals. MB switched to synthetic with the '98 year+ in order to stretch the intervals to 12-15k miles with the advent of the FSS system.
Bottom line, if using regular oil, change it according to the old recommendations (not Jiffy Lube's suggestions) and you will be fine.
Bottom line, if using regular oil, change it according to the old recommendations (not Jiffy Lube's suggestions) and you will be fine.
I am going to do mine about every 5000 to be safe but still on the Conservative side.
Then again what American car has a 7 quart oil pan ?
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From: Santa Clarita, CA
1987 E300 TD
Mobil 1, Synt is the way to go, always used on my 99' E300 TD. The car now has 75k miles on it, and no problems since.
Last edited by lxl_Jeffro_lxl; Mar 5, 2007 at 09:12 PM.
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From: Columbia, SC
E300
Just a suggestion regarding the oil you use for your diesel. If you're using that M1. make sure it's diesel rated. Many stealers run M1 0w-40 or th elikes thinking it's the right oil. IT may work just like most other oils but not suited to use in a diesel engine. Mobil 1 has the Turbo-Diesel 5w-40 rated diesel oil. Great oil but difficult to find most places and expensive if you do. Recently I switched over to AMSOIL 15w-40 HDD & Marine for hy diesel. The oil is thicker, since I live in a warmer climate cold starts aren't an issue and it's slightly cheaper than M1 Turbo-Diesel and is at least the same quality if not better, from my homework the base stocks for both oils are on par with each other.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Northeast
e300d
All 5W40 oils are "synthetic" unless you know otherwise....
If you can't figure out what oil is correct for your car, why not defer to the factory's written recommendation
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From: SFV, SoCal
2022 CLS450 AMG 4Matic
Mobil 1 all the way! My previous E420 had something like 130k miles on it and as soon as I started using Mobil 1 (at like 100k) it ran better, cleaner and quieter. My MB Tech made me start using synthetic to prolong the life of the engine...
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From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
MB recommends a 229.3 listed oil for 1997 and older. If unavailable an oil with a API SJ classification can be substituted. Most of the 229.3 oils are synthetic as well. Here is a list of approved fluids. See page 3-4.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...toryfluids.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...toryfluids.pdf
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From: Pittsburgh,PA, Cambridge, Ontario, CN
2003 S210 3.8L Brabus wagon
I ran my 1990 E300 on Mobil One for 242000 miles before it was hit from behind and totaled. The cylinders had less 5/1000s taper in the walls. The changes were with filter every 6000 miles. The taper at breakin is typically 3-4/1000s. All seven of our vehicles run That cycle with Mobil One only. With your inline 6 motor use the MB spec filter as your filter sits upside down. The MB spec brand will not drain therefore there is immediate oil on start up where most of the engine wear takes place. Fram and purolater will drain out.
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From: Long Island, NY
01 E320
MB recommends a 229.3 listed oil for 1997 and older. If unavailable an oil with a API SJ classification can be substituted. Most of the 229.3 oils are synthetic as well. Here is a list of approved fluids. See page 3-4.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...toryfluids.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...toryfluids.pdf
The document states that 229.3 and 229.5 are recommended for 1998 - 2004 gasoline vehicles. 229.5 is recommended for 2005 to present vehicles. I use either Mobil 1 0w40 (229.5) or Castrol Syntec 5w40 (229.3). Both are recommended for my vehicle
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From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
You are correct. But in spite of the table almost everyone out here and other MB sites recommends and uses 229.5 spec in 1998 and newer. I guess we pamper our cars more than necessary. Also, Mobil 1 ECF 0W-40 is easy to find and competitively priced which makes for an attractive option.
