Stainless steel brake lines? NEED HELP
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1996 E320
Stainless steel brake lines? NEED HELP
Hello all,
Drivers side stock line has ruptured and I am considering replacing all lines with braided steel lines. It is a '96 E320 w/ABS and double pin rear brakes. Does anyone have experience or suggestions with any brands or manufacturers??? Please post links or suggestions...
Many Thanks!!!
Drivers side stock line has ruptured and I am considering replacing all lines with braided steel lines. It is a '96 E320 w/ABS and double pin rear brakes. Does anyone have experience or suggestions with any brands or manufacturers??? Please post links or suggestions...
Many Thanks!!!
Last edited by waynesi; 04-11-2007 at 10:28 AM.
#2
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I put them on my C43 - real nice. Try here : www.performanceproducts.com
p.s. - Goodridge is the manufacturer !
p.s. - Goodridge is the manufacturer !
Last edited by C43AMG; 04-11-2007 at 10:37 AM.
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1996 E320
Thanx for suggestion... checked it out... they look good. I found a company called StopTech, and they have what look like high performance replacement parts... any comments or critiques, anybody?
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Thank you all for your input... a question I didnt ask earlier, What type of brake fluid did you opt for when replenishing the system, and how much did you need???
#9
I use ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. Here is a review from a guy on Amazon.com:
Most brake fluids are DOT 3 - good enough for the street and normal driving (if there is such a thing). If, however, you run your car at high speed events like your Porsche, BMW, Ferrari, etc., club track days, DOT 3 just won't cut it.
DOT 4 grade brake fluid has a higher boiling point so it helps prevent bubbles forming in the caliper at high disc brake temperatures. When you're really hammering the brakes (braking from triple digit speeds lap after lap) the heat in the disc and caliper can get so high that it can cause the fluid to boil and at best, give a spongy brake pedal feel. At worst, your brakes can go away completely (that's change your shorts time!). ATE makes a good quality product. They make brake components (e.g., calipers) so they really know what works.
I (and many of my track-junkie friends) have been using this fluid with good luck for years in our German cars. Also important, it has never damaged the seals (I am told that it can happen with some products). Change your brake fluid at least once a year and bleed it before every track event for maximum safety.
Most brake fluids are DOT 3 - good enough for the street and normal driving (if there is such a thing). If, however, you run your car at high speed events like your Porsche, BMW, Ferrari, etc., club track days, DOT 3 just won't cut it.
DOT 4 grade brake fluid has a higher boiling point so it helps prevent bubbles forming in the caliper at high disc brake temperatures. When you're really hammering the brakes (braking from triple digit speeds lap after lap) the heat in the disc and caliper can get so high that it can cause the fluid to boil and at best, give a spongy brake pedal feel. At worst, your brakes can go away completely (that's change your shorts time!). ATE makes a good quality product. They make brake components (e.g., calipers) so they really know what works.
I (and many of my track-junkie friends) have been using this fluid with good luck for years in our German cars. Also important, it has never damaged the seals (I am told that it can happen with some products). Change your brake fluid at least once a year and bleed it before every track event for maximum safety.
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ML320, Looking for my S4
I use ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. Here is a review from a guy on Amazon.com:
Most brake fluids are DOT 3 - good enough for the street and normal driving (if there is such a thing). If, however, you run your car at high speed events like your Porsche, BMW, Ferrari, etc., club track days, DOT 3 just won't cut it.
DOT 4 grade brake fluid has a higher boiling point so it helps prevent bubbles forming in the caliper at high disc brake temperatures. When you're really hammering the brakes (braking from triple digit speeds lap after lap) the heat in the disc and caliper can get so high that it can cause the fluid to boil and at best, give a spongy brake pedal feel. At worst, your brakes can go away completely (that's change your shorts time!). ATE makes a good quality product. They make brake components (e.g., calipers) so they really know what works.
I (and many of my track-junkie friends) have been using this fluid with good luck for years in our German cars. Also important, it has never damaged the seals (I am told that it can happen with some products). Change your brake fluid at least once a year and bleed it before every track event for maximum safety.
Most brake fluids are DOT 3 - good enough for the street and normal driving (if there is such a thing). If, however, you run your car at high speed events like your Porsche, BMW, Ferrari, etc., club track days, DOT 3 just won't cut it.
DOT 4 grade brake fluid has a higher boiling point so it helps prevent bubbles forming in the caliper at high disc brake temperatures. When you're really hammering the brakes (braking from triple digit speeds lap after lap) the heat in the disc and caliper can get so high that it can cause the fluid to boil and at best, give a spongy brake pedal feel. At worst, your brakes can go away completely (that's change your shorts time!). ATE makes a good quality product. They make brake components (e.g., calipers) so they really know what works.
I (and many of my track-junkie friends) have been using this fluid with good luck for years in our German cars. Also important, it has never damaged the seals (I am told that it can happen with some products). Change your brake fluid at least once a year and bleed it before every track event for maximum safety.
wow i didn't know that.... what brand do you recomend?
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
DOT 4 should be safe. usually it's the silicone based DOT 5 which can
attack certain rubber parts. regardless, stick with the recommedation
outlined in the owner manual. the info recommended within is usually
predicated on what has proven effective....and is comfortably within
warranty parameters.
attack certain rubber parts. regardless, stick with the recommedation
outlined in the owner manual. the info recommended within is usually
predicated on what has proven effective....and is comfortably within
warranty parameters.
Last edited by raymond g-; 04-14-2007 at 06:15 PM.
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1996 E320
Thank You Raymond,
I knew I was asking the right bunch!!! I'll Post back with details on the repair/upgrade when the work is completed.
Thanks again to All,
Wayne
I knew I was asking the right bunch!!! I'll Post back with details on the repair/upgrade when the work is completed.
Thanks again to All,
Wayne
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88 535is, 89 318iT
A couple things to add. SS brakelines cannot be observed for pre-failure symptoms like rubber lines. Make sure you document when you put on the SS lines and replace them well before your original lines burst. I personally don't use SS lines on the street or for my race cars for this reason. Also, they are not an upgrade as they are not stronger, safer or cheaper.
On the track, SS lines should be a 1-2 year replacement item anyway for safety.
Ford brake fluid is great, cheap and plentiful at your Ford dealer. Don't use ATE blue, unless you want your brake system, reservoir and break bleeding equipment permanently stained. Off the shelf Valvoline Syn-tech works fine also.
David
On the track, SS lines should be a 1-2 year replacement item anyway for safety.
Ford brake fluid is great, cheap and plentiful at your Ford dealer. Don't use ATE blue, unless you want your brake system, reservoir and break bleeding equipment permanently stained. Off the shelf Valvoline Syn-tech works fine also.
David
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