Timing chain accsess panel gasket leak
#1
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1996 E320
Timing chain accsess panel gasket leak
Hello. My vehicle is a 96 E320 and I have noticed an oil leak from the front of the engine under the front plastic access panel. It looks like it is on the passenger side in the area above the mounting bracket for the alternator, near the water pump. I have been doing a little searching on the site, and it appears from the location of the leak, others have reported it is the gasket for the timing chain housing.
Can anyone say if it seems like that gasket is a likely culprit, and if so... is there any procedure material for the gasket replacement? Does anyone reccomend using liquid sealers or just a dry fit for the gasket?
I replaced the oil pan on my old Bimmer, and used the liqid sealer and never had a problem with it after that. Just curious for some feedback on using liquid gasket/sealers on an MB.
I have gotten some solid gold feedback and advice from the users here that has already saved me a LOT of money from having to bring her into a shop! Needless to say, Thank You all for your insightful replies.
So far, with the information I've gotten from this site, I have replaced the Brake linings, mended a hard brake line using a double flare joint, flushed and bled the brake fluid, replaced the shocks all around, taken the dashboard apart and tightened it up removing a few rattles, repaired the vaccuum unit under the back seat, a tune-up, changed the serpentine belt, the air filters, including the one in the glove compartment, the oxygen sensors, oil filter, plus a few other minor things I'm sure aren't coming to mind at the moment... (sounds like these cars need a lot of maintinance, lol)! I realy enjoy doing these jobs myself and learning more about the car as I'm doing them. Next on the list is... ?
TYIA for your replies.
Wayne
Can anyone say if it seems like that gasket is a likely culprit, and if so... is there any procedure material for the gasket replacement? Does anyone reccomend using liquid sealers or just a dry fit for the gasket?
I replaced the oil pan on my old Bimmer, and used the liqid sealer and never had a problem with it after that. Just curious for some feedback on using liquid gasket/sealers on an MB.
I have gotten some solid gold feedback and advice from the users here that has already saved me a LOT of money from having to bring her into a shop! Needless to say, Thank You all for your insightful replies.
So far, with the information I've gotten from this site, I have replaced the Brake linings, mended a hard brake line using a double flare joint, flushed and bled the brake fluid, replaced the shocks all around, taken the dashboard apart and tightened it up removing a few rattles, repaired the vaccuum unit under the back seat, a tune-up, changed the serpentine belt, the air filters, including the one in the glove compartment, the oxygen sensors, oil filter, plus a few other minor things I'm sure aren't coming to mind at the moment... (sounds like these cars need a lot of maintinance, lol)! I realy enjoy doing these jobs myself and learning more about the car as I'm doing them. Next on the list is... ?
TYIA for your replies.
Wayne
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209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
Hello. My vehicle is a 96 E320 and I have noticed an oil leak from the front of the engine under the front plastic access panel. It looks like it is on the passenger side in the area above the mounting bracket for the alternator, near the water pump. I have been doing a little searching on the site, and it appears from the location of the leak, others have reported it is the gasket for the timing chain housing.
Can anyone say if it seems like that gasket is a likely culprit, and if so... is there any procedure material for the gasket replacement? Does anyone reccomend using liquid sealers or just a dry fit for the gasket?
I replaced the oil pan on my old Bimmer, and used the liqid sealer and never had a problem with it after that. Just curious for some feedback on using liquid gasket/sealers on an MB.
I have gotten some solid gold feedback and advice from the users here that has already saved me a LOT of money from having to bring her into a shop! Needless to say, Thank You all for your insightful replies.
So far, with the information I've gotten from this site, I have replaced the Brake linings, mended a hard brake line using a double flare joint, flushed and bled the brake fluid, replaced the shocks all around, taken the dashboard apart and tightened it up removing a few rattles, repaired the vaccuum unit under the back seat, a tune-up, changed the serpentine belt, the air filters, including the one in the glove compartment, the oxygen sensors, oil filter, plus a few other minor things I'm sure aren't coming to mind at the moment... (sounds like these cars need a lot of maintinance, lol)! I realy enjoy doing these jobs myself and learning more about the car as I'm doing them. Next on the list is... ?
TYIA for your replies.
Wayne
Can anyone say if it seems like that gasket is a likely culprit, and if so... is there any procedure material for the gasket replacement? Does anyone reccomend using liquid sealers or just a dry fit for the gasket?
I replaced the oil pan on my old Bimmer, and used the liqid sealer and never had a problem with it after that. Just curious for some feedback on using liquid gasket/sealers on an MB.
I have gotten some solid gold feedback and advice from the users here that has already saved me a LOT of money from having to bring her into a shop! Needless to say, Thank You all for your insightful replies.
So far, with the information I've gotten from this site, I have replaced the Brake linings, mended a hard brake line using a double flare joint, flushed and bled the brake fluid, replaced the shocks all around, taken the dashboard apart and tightened it up removing a few rattles, repaired the vaccuum unit under the back seat, a tune-up, changed the serpentine belt, the air filters, including the one in the glove compartment, the oxygen sensors, oil filter, plus a few other minor things I'm sure aren't coming to mind at the moment... (sounds like these cars need a lot of maintinance, lol)! I realy enjoy doing these jobs myself and learning more about the car as I'm doing them. Next on the list is... ?
TYIA for your replies.
Wayne
I Would use the late GREEN Horse shoe seal at the front cam cover WITH MB Sealant Its a Very Easy job to do...The Job CAN Be done in Under 30 min.You will need a Valve Cover Gasket and coolant pipe O Rings for the job along with the LATE Green cam cover seal
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1996 E320
Thanks Mark,
Is there a procedure spec for this job? and if so, where might I be able to download it and print it so that i may refer to it as a guide?
Wayne
PS I Have been advised that this is not easy, and I should bring it to a shop for service. Is this a job youve done in the past youself?
Is there a procedure spec for this job? and if so, where might I be able to download it and print it so that i may refer to it as a guide?
Wayne
PS I Have been advised that this is not easy, and I should bring it to a shop for service. Is this a job youve done in the past youself?
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ML320, Looking for my S4
just checked on mine, i'm curious to. i have the same problem.... but oddly enough my car hasn't burned a drip of oil in 3K miles
#5
Iīve seen this problem far too often in the 103 and 104 engine. The culprit is not the small U-shaped gasket under the front upper timing cover, but the head gasket itself.
At first I tried replacing the U-gasket, but Iīve learned it the hard way that that doesnīt cure anything.
If you want your car to stop leaking oil, then replace the head gasket. Or have it done for you.
Itīs a fairly time consuming operation, but itīs worth it.
I spent some 20 hours on my 300 CE 24 valve engine, including the valve stem seals.
Cheers,
At first I tried replacing the U-gasket, but Iīve learned it the hard way that that doesnīt cure anything.
If you want your car to stop leaking oil, then replace the head gasket. Or have it done for you.
Itīs a fairly time consuming operation, but itīs worth it.
I spent some 20 hours on my 300 CE 24 valve engine, including the valve stem seals.
Cheers,
Last edited by 124-Fan; 05-11-2007 at 06:24 PM.
#7
Ok., well. Of course anything is possible. Replacing that sensor isnīt too hard, so you may open a beer and relax.
But regarding the head gasket replacement, I forgot to mention one thing. It is absolutely necessary to have the cylinder head machined. Otherwise you will always have problems.
-Was yours machined?
Cheers,
But regarding the head gasket replacement, I forgot to mention one thing. It is absolutely necessary to have the cylinder head machined. Otherwise you will always have problems.
-Was yours machined?
Cheers,
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'99 E430, '05 ML500, '15 GLK350
On my 104 it was the U-shaped gasket, and it was not a 30-min job. Not too complicated, but you should have a procedure, and you will need to extract a locator pin using the stacked washer method (or a slide hammer, but access is tough for that).
#10
My '96 E320 had a head gasket leak, replaced at 75K miles by a MB indy master mechanic. I asked him to resurface the head but after checking/measuring he told me that it's super flat and there is no need to planarize it. Cost : $ 1750. He asked me to drive for 300-500 miles then come back to change oil back to Mobil 1 0W-40. Hopefully it would last another 20 yrs.
#11
I had the head gasket replaced couple of months ago and the indy had to send the head out to be machined even though he said it looked flat.
Reason he told me was he did not want to have any problems down the road.
Also changed the valve seals and timing chain gasket.
Reason he told me was he did not want to have any problems down the road.
Also changed the valve seals and timing chain gasket.
#12
Yes well, Iīve always machined the head during head gasket replacment. Both on the 103 and 104 engines. With the head off the engine, why bother not to machine it. Iīve simply never taken the chance, although you can probably get away with it if youīre lucky.
All the he heads Iīve machined have needed it, to be honest. And the last one, from a 104 engine, was so twisted, that I had to cut off 0.45 mm just to get it straight !! - Imagine that.
All the he heads Iīve machined have needed it, to be honest. And the last one, from a 104 engine, was so twisted, that I had to cut off 0.45 mm just to get it straight !! - Imagine that.
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1996 E320
Update
Well, I got the job done by a small shop in Mineola, Long Island. He replaced the cam cover gasket, valve cover gasket, the cam magnet, and the vaccuum hoses as they were so brittle from age and heat exposure... also, had him change the coolant fluids and the high tone horn was out, so all in all, a very good job at a very reasonable price...
The real pleasure was watching a master mechanic practicing his craft. He was so meticulously clean in working and prepping the areas he was working on, the engine looks BRAND NEW!!! And moreover, NO LEAKS... what a pleasure to know there will no longer be a stain in the driveway!!!
Anyway, if any one needs an outstanding independant mechanic in LI, let me know.
Wayne
The real pleasure was watching a master mechanic practicing his craft. He was so meticulously clean in working and prepping the areas he was working on, the engine looks BRAND NEW!!! And moreover, NO LEAKS... what a pleasure to know there will no longer be a stain in the driveway!!!
Anyway, if any one needs an outstanding independant mechanic in LI, let me know.
Wayne
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ML320, Looking for my S4
Ok., well. Of course anything is possible. Replacing that sensor isnīt too hard, so you may open a beer and relax.
But regarding the head gasket replacement, I forgot to mention one thing. It is absolutely necessary to have the cylinder head machined. Otherwise you will always have problems.
-Was yours machined?
Cheers,
But regarding the head gasket replacement, I forgot to mention one thing. It is absolutely necessary to have the cylinder head machined. Otherwise you will always have problems.
-Was yours machined?
Cheers,
yeah, one of the guys that works in the shop said it was milled down 2mm, not sure but w.e