Adding Freon
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From: Oregon
1999 CLK430
Adding Freon
Can I do this myself? I've done it on my other cars. When the A/C got to where it was not cold enough in my other cars I would just add a can or 2 and then it was fine. Can I damage something doing this? Also, anyone got a pic of where to add it. Any other tips? Thanks.
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From: The city that never sleeps
ML320, Looking for my S4
Can I do this myself? I've done it on my other cars. When the A/C got to where it was not cold enough in my other cars I would just add a can or 2 and then it was fine. Can I damage something doing this? Also, anyone got a pic of where to add it. Any other tips? Thanks.
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From: Seattle WA
99 E320
eddie-
replenishing r134 can result in damage if you're not certain how to perform
this properly....and whether your A/C really need the juice. first, quickly
read up on the following (you should have simlilar diagnostics, yes?)
go to this link and read magazine article on A/C
go here and read diagnostics
then go here and perform diagnostics
to the right of the yellow warning sticker is metal line. this is the low
pressure A/C. in the middle you can see black fitting. this is threaded
cap. unscrew and you'll see a valve fitting which kinda resembles the
schrader tire valve (but isn't). this is where r134a hose fitting is to be
connected. but again (!).....don't do this w/o first reading up on the
links above.
pic from engine bay of 99 E320 V6.....
replenishing r134 can result in damage if you're not certain how to perform
this properly....and whether your A/C really need the juice. first, quickly
read up on the following (you should have simlilar diagnostics, yes?)
go to this link and read magazine article on A/C
go here and read diagnostics
then go here and perform diagnostics
to the right of the yellow warning sticker is metal line. this is the low
pressure A/C. in the middle you can see black fitting. this is threaded
cap. unscrew and you'll see a valve fitting which kinda resembles the
schrader tire valve (but isn't). this is where r134a hose fitting is to be
connected. but again (!).....don't do this w/o first reading up on the
links above.
pic from engine bay of 99 E320 V6.....
Thread Starter
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From: Oregon
1999 CLK430
Recommended refrigerant pressure and other questions?
What is the recommended refrigerant pressure? Does this rise and fall with the amount of freon in the system? Do I need the pressure guage, or can I use the diagnostic test to read it as I add freon? (Actual value test #7).
If the pressure gauge is measuring something dirrerent, what should the value be?
What should the refrigerant temperature be (test #8). Does it also rise and fall with the amount of freon in the system.
Can I just add freon until the pressure and temperature read in the recommended range?
Thanks
If the pressure gauge is measuring something dirrerent, what should the value be?
What should the refrigerant temperature be (test #8). Does it also rise and fall with the amount of freon in the system.
Can I just add freon until the pressure and temperature read in the recommended range?
Thanks
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
what values
Did you get when you ran the tests?post them,then you figure out if you need r134a,if you have a leak it needs to be fixed or you are just wasting money,if it is a failed sensor it needs to be r/r if it is one of the critical ones.
Pressure varies according to load in a perfectly operating system.Just got back from a 2700 mile road trip,went up the grapevine in Ca. at 70mph a/c on cabin temp at 64f on an 88f afternoon,pressure varied from 7-16 value.The Benz system varies with load.
post those values,
ohlord
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Pressure varies according to load in a perfectly operating system.Just got back from a 2700 mile road trip,went up the grapevine in Ca. at 70mph a/c on cabin temp at 64f on an 88f afternoon,pressure varied from 7-16 value.The Benz system varies with load.
post those values,
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
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From: New Jersey
things with and without wheels
It's difficult to tell how much refrigirant you have left if you have a leak, it's best to have the charge pulled ,tested for leaks and then put the charge back in. Temperature has a lot to do with the pressure reading . If you overcharge your system you could cause expesive damage. 134 a refrigirant has very small molecules and it could permiate through the flexible lines or you might have an actual leak. If you want to put a band aid on your situation for now add a charge in .5 lbs increments till you get close enough readings that should get you through this season and then get it done right.
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From: New Jersey
things with and without wheels
Older systems that used r-12 refrigirant that used mineral oil, 134a refrigirant need pag oil ,it's synthetic. Look at all your a/c lines and your compressor for signs of leaks if they are dirty or oily then most likelly that's the spot of the leak. when refrigirant leaks out so does the oil again the amount that leaked out is uncertain. If I have to add some refrigirant, up to .5 lbs then I dont add any oil but anything more then 1lbs I would add .5oz of oil.or you can get the stuff with oil already in it.
You can also use soapy water to check for leaks or electronic leak detector depending on your budget.
You can also use soapy water to check for leaks or electronic leak detector depending on your budget.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Possible low on r134a
When you post the values look for bad or faulty sensors,ref pressure,ref temp.If your light is on and will not shut off when pushed,your system has one of the above failed or most of the r134a is gone.If you don't show a failed sensor,do not waste time adding r134a,the leak is to big,it wont get you by....
No failed sensors....find and fix the leak.Failed sensors,fix them first.
don't worry about sun sensor code.
ohlord
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No failed sensors....find and fix the leak.Failed sensors,fix them first.
don't worry about sun sensor code.
ohlord
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: West Des Moines, Iowa
'97 E320
Great advice above!
I would add that after you've done all the steps above...you'll need to clear the EC light by resetting the climate control computer. I posted this the other day in a thread...if you search, you shall find.
I would add that after you've done all the steps above...you'll need to clear the EC light by resetting the climate control computer. I posted this the other day in a thread...if you search, you shall find.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
ok
Ignore the sun sensor code it may clear when other values are corrected and the codes are cleared.Unless you use the rest function ,which is nice to have in Oregon winters,repair that on a day with nothing better to do.Locate the leak,best way is with a elec. sniffer,faster and neater then dye kits.however a shop will need to do it,unless you can borrow one from someone that has one.they run about $200 so it is cheaper to have a good a/c shop find it.Or get a dye kit for a/c and rent a black lght flood lamp from a pet store that has the really bright lamps that locate cat urine on carpets.It is like a aircraft beacon for locating a/c leaks.Repair the leak.Have the system evac and filled,or diy by buying the kit from becool that includes the guages.Run the codes again and clear the ones that don't clear on their own.You should be good to go...
ohlord
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ohlord
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Thread Starter
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From: Oregon
1999 CLK430
More help please.
Tried to put in 2 cans of freon. New codes
1. 91
2. 84
3. 84
4. 91
5. 89
6. 184
7. 7
6. 94
Didn't seem like the freon went in to me. Still had quite a bit of pressure when I unhooked.
Should the 134A can be upright or upside down? Should I be running the A/C when adding freon?
EC light is now off and all codes cleared. None came back when I re-ran them, but the A/C is still warm.
1. 91
2. 84
3. 84
4. 91
5. 89
6. 184
7. 7
6. 94
Didn't seem like the freon went in to me. Still had quite a bit of pressure when I unhooked.
Should the 134A can be upright or upside down? Should I be running the A/C when adding freon?
EC light is now off and all codes cleared. None came back when I re-ran them, but the A/C is still warm.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Car on/ac on follow can directions
at idle, low side port, can upright and shaken frequently.If the light is off now run it for awhile and read the codes and errors again and post the values.You would feel the cans getting lighter if it went in,or you can use a scale to weigh a full can and see how much the weight decreases.If you really lost 2 cans worth,major leak,you have to repair that first.compare the weight of the cans you used to a new full can.some may have gone in and thats why the codes cleared,although its not full as noted by the warm air.If you are 3 cans low,really find that leak!!!!!!!
ohlord
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ohlord
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Last edited by ohlord; Aug 15, 2007 at 08:13 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Oregon
1999 CLK430
If I have a leak it's a slow one. I've had the car for a year and a half with no problems. Need to go on a road trip in a couple days, so bandaid is good enough for now. I'll try again tomorrow with can upright and shaking. I really don't think I lost 2 cans, I think they didn't go in.Thanks for the help. Once again respectfully, do I have the air on while adding? Does fan setting matter?
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
A/C on
max cool,fans don't matter as long as they are on.The can of 134a should have directions for that brand.From all indications you have a leak,any leak is not good ,your system will not operate properly and as the gas get low the oils built in go also and eventually will cause a possible compressor failure,stop gap measures are okay ,but you really need to fix the leak.
ohlord
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ohlord
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Thread Starter
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From: Oregon
1999 CLK430
Freon won't go in!
Frustration. Freon doesn't seem to want to in. Tried to add 2 more cans, but 1 wouldn't go in at all. I could feel 1 of the cans getting a little colder when I revved up the motor while trying to put it in. After you disconnect the cans get relly cold like there supposed to when they are venting the last of there pressure. Ran the codes after each can and very little change. Last set of codes.
1. 80
2. 76
3. 84
4. 84
5. 84
6. 184
7. 6
6. 82
Anybody got any ideas? A/C still blows warm. EC light is off.
1. 80
2. 76
3. 84
4. 84
5. 84
6. 184
7. 6
6. 82
Anybody got any ideas? A/C still blows warm. EC light is off.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Read the codes again
And also the error codes,post them.
Seems that you are low if those codes for error still show,and since you can't tell how much low on the mb variable load system,you may have to get the charge pulled,evacuated and recharged.If r134a is not going in you drier or some line may be blocked.Post the error codes again,and then the next step may,and I say this reluctantly ,find a good indie a/c shop.
ohlord
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Seems that you are low if those codes for error still show,and since you can't tell how much low on the mb variable load system,you may have to get the charge pulled,evacuated and recharged.If r134a is not going in you drier or some line may be blocked.Post the error codes again,and then the next step may,and I say this reluctantly ,find a good indie a/c shop.
ohlord
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Thread Starter
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From: Oregon
1999 CLK430
Thanks for the help.
Thanks everybody for the help. I really appreciate it. Ohlord, there are no error codes now since I cleared them. None have returned. I'm kinda outa ideas and am opening a barbeque stand to pay for shop repair. Thanks again ya'll.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Going to rockaway beach
At the end of the month,open that shop and we will be there!
Really should not be to big of a bill if they know what they are doing,and since you pull the codes and errors,at least you have an idea of what to look out for.Have you ran the tests with the engine running and set the climate controls to 60f on both sides and write down the values?The beauty of the onboard diagnostics is that you can set at any temp and watch the values as it operates.Run them with the engine warmed up to 195f,and record them and then shut it down and run the error test procedure,and record that.The compressor is operating,r134a is low,everything seems to be in order,It can't be more then labor and 134a plus some oil and a new drier.
Maybe you wont need the chef hat!
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
Really should not be to big of a bill if they know what they are doing,and since you pull the codes and errors,at least you have an idea of what to look out for.Have you ran the tests with the engine running and set the climate controls to 60f on both sides and write down the values?The beauty of the onboard diagnostics is that you can set at any temp and watch the values as it operates.Run them with the engine warmed up to 195f,and record them and then shut it down and run the error test procedure,and record that.The compressor is operating,r134a is low,everything seems to be in order,It can't be more then labor and 134a plus some oil and a new drier.
Maybe you wont need the chef hat!
ohlord
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