Power Window Regulator
Both left and right rear window regulators had been replaced within this year. There was a white plastic connector that broke down and lose apart so easily when moving window upward.
Dealer said that Y2k model of W210 have this problem quite often.
Just can't believe the M.B. quality control that they can accept such a lousy window regulator supplier that makes such a ****ty stuff. Anyone experience this too??
Dealer said that Y2k model of W210 have this problem quite often.
Just can't believe the M.B. quality control that they can accept such a lousy window regulator supplier that makes such a ****ty stuff. Anyone experience this too??
Yes. Had my driver rear replaced this summer. Hope you got your done on warranty because this is covered (at least on extended warranty it was
).
If you do a search, you will find other members with the same complaint. I was told by my dealership that this is a cosumable item even if you don't use the window (vibration from road shock will wear out the regulator over time).
).If you do a search, you will find other members with the same complaint. I was told by my dealership that this is a cosumable item even if you don't use the window (vibration from road shock will wear out the regulator over time).
Rear window regulators...
Yep, this is a common problem, and don't expect it to stop once the car is out of warranty. It's the rear window regulators that employ a cable type regulator which tend to give way. (I replaced one myself recently, and I believe I posted details and pictures in one of these forums.)
The way the structure is built, it is not repairable and designed to absorb shock. It makes we wonder if this was done to protect the window itself. It's very lightweight, easy to install and compact compared to a scissor type regulator, which you will find in the front of the vehicle.
This is a problem for W210s all around, not just a specific model year.
It cost me $120 in parts, but I've heard from people who got the regulators for less. Not really a big thing, but it is a pain in the rear to carefully remove and re-install the door cladding. The rest is pretty easy. On the other hand, my car is almost 7 years old. I wasn't too upset.
The way the structure is built, it is not repairable and designed to absorb shock. It makes we wonder if this was done to protect the window itself. It's very lightweight, easy to install and compact compared to a scissor type regulator, which you will find in the front of the vehicle.
This is a problem for W210s all around, not just a specific model year.
It cost me $120 in parts, but I've heard from people who got the regulators for less. Not really a big thing, but it is a pain in the rear to carefully remove and re-install the door cladding. The rest is pretty easy. On the other hand, my car is almost 7 years old. I wasn't too upset.
Last edited by haspelbein; Nov 27, 2002 at 10:51 AM.
If the rear window regulator break down that easily, why don't they improve the quality and structure of it to make it little bit more stronger? I'm thinking of pulling out the rear window fuse and never open them again. Does the M.B. head quarter in Germany knows this problem? Is there any other replacement regulator for that?
Actually ...
... just not using the rear power window should do the trick. The road vibrations may cause some stress, but the strongest force should occur upon closing the window, before the torque clutch kicks in and stops the regulator motor.
I know the MB has modified the regulator rather slightly between my '96 model and the regulator for a '98 that I replaced it with. However, I do not see any substantial modifications.
If I really wanted to be sure that the window never goes down, I would remove the regulator, get a piece of wood (cut to size), and screw self-cutting screws through the holes for the regulator mounting rivets right into the wood.
I'm pretty sure that MB is aware of the problem. This has been going on for a while. While the problem is very likely to occur over time, it is also very infrequent overall.
I'm not aware of any aftermarket regulator that promises a higher reliablility. This is a rather specialized part, and even with the occasional failure, would probably not create a high enough demand to justify a 3rd party's engineering effort.
I know the MB has modified the regulator rather slightly between my '96 model and the regulator for a '98 that I replaced it with. However, I do not see any substantial modifications.
If I really wanted to be sure that the window never goes down, I would remove the regulator, get a piece of wood (cut to size), and screw self-cutting screws through the holes for the regulator mounting rivets right into the wood.

I'm pretty sure that MB is aware of the problem. This has been going on for a while. While the problem is very likely to occur over time, it is also very infrequent overall.
I'm not aware of any aftermarket regulator that promises a higher reliablility. This is a rather specialized part, and even with the occasional failure, would probably not create a high enough demand to justify a 3rd party's engineering effort.
Last edited by haspelbein; Nov 27, 2002 at 11:33 AM.
I just got to work, was dropped off by the dealership shuttle service. My car is in the shop for the right rear power window regulator. According to them, they have an updated part which addresses the issue of road wear on the existing oem regulator.
They quoted me 275.00 parts and labor, but said that it might fall under that.
Im not too surprised since the first thing i did before buying the car was check the forums here for common problematic issues. Apparently the rear windows, and frequent bulb replacing were the main things i could find to go wrong (knock on wood) for my 97 E420
-=osiris667=-
They quoted me 275.00 parts and labor, but said that it might fall under that.
Im not too surprised since the first thing i did before buying the car was check the forums here for common problematic issues. Apparently the rear windows, and frequent bulb replacing were the main things i could find to go wrong (knock on wood) for my 97 E420
-=osiris667=-
...until you've seen the 'Lamp Defective' message and had the tail lights out a couple of times.
Hmmm, the 'updated' regulator I got the last time looked awfully close to the original one. Interestingly enough, not plastic piece holding the window broken in my case, but a piece of metal connecting the cable to the regulator frame gave way. So, I believe this issue remains open.
Hmmm, the 'updated' regulator I got the last time looked awfully close to the original one. Interestingly enough, not plastic piece holding the window broken in my case, but a piece of metal connecting the cable to the regulator frame gave way. So, I believe this issue remains open.
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Re: Actually ...
Originally posted by haspelbein
... just not using the rear power window should do the trick.
... just not using the rear power window should do the trick.
Originally posted by haspelbein
... until you've seen the 'Lamp Defective' message......
... until you've seen the 'Lamp Defective' message......
Of course ...
...there will be road wear on the regulator. I hardly ever use the rear windows (no kids), but opening and closing the window should wear it out much faster. From what I've heard from other E-Class owners, many actually heard a 'snap' upon closing the window as the first indication that it went.
I hardly ever use my rear windows, and the right one lasted 7 years, the other one is still the OEM regulator. Let's see how long that one lasts.
I hardly ever use my rear windows, and the right one lasted 7 years, the other one is still the OEM regulator. Let's see how long that one lasts.
Well, I am not dare to open the rear windows anymore until they have improve the quality of that white plasitc regulator from the M.B. service center. Cause removing the door panel too often is what I hate to see and this would surely loosen the rigidity of the door panel. One day there will be some cracking sounds and noise from the door panel then!!!
Thanks !!
Thanks !!
Well ...
In all honesty, I wouldn't be quite that concerned. You can always ask for the shop to use new brass clamps and plastic mounts when re-installing the door panel. (I removed mine very carefully, using a trim removal tool, and reused the fasteners. The door is as silent as before.)
Anyhow, you're looking at something that really shouldn't happen all that often. I've known people who put 120K miles on the E-Class, without having this problem once.
I'm still using my rear windows, but I'm not doing it excessively. I won't move them up and down in traffic, just to pass time. :p
Anyhow, you're looking at something that really shouldn't happen all that often. I've known people who put 120K miles on the E-Class, without having this problem once.
I'm still using my rear windows, but I'm not doing it excessively. I won't move them up and down in traffic, just to pass time. :p



