Lowering question
#51
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209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
im going to get the springs and shocks installed soon on #3 or 4 pads. Anyway should i get the camber arms and the repair bolts installed with the springs and shocks to save work later down the line or is it pointless and should i wait until the springs settle? Is it nessesary to get an alignment after the spring and shocks are installed?
I Would let the suspension settle..Then Align it
Its not much work to install the rear bars and front bolts
#52
The car has only rubbed the bottom at the wheel well once when I was speeding and hit a parking lot entry too fast. Normal driving has improved greatly. Aside from the performance, the lowered look is simply more pleasing to the eye..., so says this idiot...
http://www.evozine.com/benz/monoblock2.jpg
Car: 97 E420
Wheels: AMG monoblock II's, 18 x 8” ET31 front, 18 x 9” ET35 rear
Tires: Sumitomo HTR ZII's; - front 245/40/18, rear 275/35/18
Susp: stock springs; Cut 1 full coil front, cut 3/4 coil rear
Bilstein HD (heavy duty) shocks.
Last edited by E420White; 11-22-2008 at 10:48 AM.
#53
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96 e320, 91 Eagle Talon, 98 SVT Cobra, 74 MGB-GT, 74 TR6
That's good to know. Yours looks good but I don't think I want to go quite that low. My driveway being a big limiting factor. I think I'm going to get some nicer wheels first and see what that looks like. Some roads around my are suck and it's good to have the suspension travel and not bottoming out the suspension.
#54
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97 E420 W210, 95 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon
Hey if i lower the car would i definitely have to roll my fenders? can anyone tell me a ballpark price for rolling fenders?
#55
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If you're mechanically inclined, it's not a hard job to do yourself. I had replaced all of the suspension components myself, never getting into such a job before and it wasn't bad at all. All that you would need is to borrow or buy an internal spring compressor to remove and install the front springs. Replacing the shocks was cake. The rear springs are easily removed by removed the inner most bolt next to the rear differential and lowering the arms down with a jack to let the spring essentially fall out. It's not hard at all. Lensolo is aware of the potential insert issue for the '97 model year if you need to purchase the rear camber arms to correct any camber issues that may come about.
Sooo..... if you like the car and plan on holding onto it for some time and will do the labor yourself, it's a no brainer. As far as the camber replacement bolts up front, it's just a set of bolts that you can pick up from the stealer and install them yourself. I replace my bolts when I installed new lower control arms....
Sooo..... if you like the car and plan on holding onto it for some time and will do the labor yourself, it's a no brainer. As far as the camber replacement bolts up front, it's just a set of bolts that you can pick up from the stealer and install them yourself. I replace my bolts when I installed new lower control arms....
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2002 E430 Sport
#58
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1991 SC Miata, 1999 W210 Estate Wagon
Tire rubbing can depend on several things, namely the offset of your wheels, the tires' overall width, how much you drop the car, etc. You won't know if you'll need it until you've done the mod (because any combination of these things also affect rubbing). Let's just say that this is based on my own personal experience.
PS: Do the camber correction. Your tires will wear out from the inside... it's almost inevitable. I bought my wider wheels in June and the rear tires only lasted 10k (they would have lasted 4x more if I hadn't chewed up the inside). The front tires are still okay (with a pronounced inner wear... they're spares at this point). Don't wait til your tires blow out (like mine did). You can't tell tire wear in 2K miles either.
PS: Do the camber correction. Your tires will wear out from the inside... it's almost inevitable. I bought my wider wheels in June and the rear tires only lasted 10k (they would have lasted 4x more if I hadn't chewed up the inside). The front tires are still okay (with a pronounced inner wear... they're spares at this point). Don't wait til your tires blow out (like mine did). You can't tell tire wear in 2K miles either.
#59
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2003 E500 Sport, 1999 ML430 & Regal 402 Commodore
Can anyone forward me Lensolo's contact info? After researching most of the options available, I think his product appears like the best option. His and Speedybenz are fully adjustable replacement arms, but Lensolo's are made out of stainless steel where Speedy's are not.
I'd like to order a set of his camber rods. I hope he's worked out the W211's by now. Thanks...Roy
I'd like to order a set of his camber rods. I hope he's worked out the W211's by now. Thanks...Roy
#60
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1991 SC Miata, 1999 W210 Estate Wagon
Can anyone forward me Lensolo's contact info? After researching most of the options available, I think his product appears like the best option. His and Speedybenz are fully adjustable replacement arms, but Lensolo's are made out of stainless steel where Speedy's are not.
I'd like to order a set of his camber rods. I hope he's worked out the W211's by now. Thanks...Roy
I'd like to order a set of his camber rods. I hope he's worked out the W211's by now. Thanks...Roy
#61
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I emailed him last week and he said he was in Thailand. If you follow current events, I think he'll be stuck there for a while. Anyhoo, I did get a set from SpeedyBenz and they are just as cool. Give Jeff a ring. My experience with his promptness was way different from other people in this forum... I got my part in 3 working days.
I sent an email to SpeedyBenz a while ago about some camber arms, never heard back so I went through Lensolo.
#62
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1991 SC Miata, 1999 W210 Estate Wagon
I would have bought from a forum member here but that probably would have been more of a risk. Oh, and Lensolo did respond immediately after I emailed him. He's out of the country and I just can't wait. His work is nice, though. But in the in the end, no one gets to see his art work because it's underneath the car.