CMFIC

I want to put a new set of wheels on my 98 E430. Is it OK to go with 245/40/18s in front and 265/35/18s in back?

Right now I have 235/45/17s all around with no issues of rubbing.

Thanks

CMFIC

I just read another post and a user recommended rolling the fenders in the front. Does anyone here use the 245/40/18s in front w/ stock suspension and fenders?

Thanks

nsupra

You can use 245/40/18 just expect it to rub on huge bumps or dips in the highway or road at faster speeds. You may get away with no rubbing depending on the spring pads you have up front, and depending on the tire, i have heard of some people with no isses. But regardless best off getting the fenders rolled. And if you are going to go with 245 in the front you might as well go with 275/35/18 in the rear. Rears dont have the rubbing problem.

CMFIC

How do you roll the fenders? Is that something that required them to be repainted?

I have stock suspension.

Thanks

M3nv

You need a fender roller to roll the fenders. If you go to a competent shop, they'll be able to heat the fender as they roll it, so no paint will chip. If you go to a crappy one, there is the risk that they'll crack your paint and it'll began to chip. Im lowered on Lorinser suspension and I ran 245 with no problem.

ejsheltra

Fender rolling tool can be purchased from the Eastwood company. It mounts to your hub. Paint must be heated by a commercial grade heat gun to allow the paint to follow the revised bend. Need to be careful not to overheat or radius too aggressively per pass. I have 245-40-18 mounted on a Brabus MB V one piece wheel 8.5x18 with 35ET which is neutral position for the W210. Suspension is not lowered and no rub. Fenders have since been rolled and no rub.

tirona

how much does a decent shop usually charge for rolling the front fenders? i don't plan on doing it, just curious.

ejsheltra

My guess is from two-five hours worth of their time to prep the car and perform the work. That is just a very wide guess. Call a local body shop and ask them. They will be happy to quote you a price.

raymond g-

you're not eyeing take-offs from an E55, are you? those remind me of specs
from E55s. you didn't mention but are front ETs 31 and rears about 38? if so,
even w/o lowering, depending on the shocks you're using, the front tires, if on
ET31 wheels, may find the inside edge of the fender creating cole slaw on the
outside of the 245 tire upon moderate compression so be sure you're examining
all the critical specs, instead of just coming up with partial info.

http://tinyurl.com/ckwu2k

ohlord

31 front 35 rear and rolling fenders at shop equipped to do it.About $70 or so at a shop if you locate one in your area.Or some car clubs rent out the roller.It is not a hard job,heat applied and roll slow at several steps won't stress the paint.
We used to do it with a baseball bat,and a hair dryer.No problems.

CMFIC

Raymond-

Thanks for the reply. I am looking at E55 wheels, from the factory. Not sure if that makes a difference between the replica wheels.

The suspension is stock.

What do you think- is it a go?

Thanks

ejsheltra

As Raymond suggests check your offsets. If these are AMG offsets you will have trouble. If they are 35ET then you will not if stock height and if lowered roll the lip as per Oh Lord's reply. Check your offsets and you can answer it yourself. Good luck.

raymond g-

Here is pic of 245-40-18 ContactSport2, taken off AMG split spoke 8.5" width,
ET31 from W211 E55. it was put on my 99 E320 using RAD hybrid bolts. the
shocks were OEM, 50k miles on the clock. Spring pad was #3.

During strong compression of several inches, the inside lip of the wheel arch
began to shred the outside of the tire. I had Bilstein HDs and installed them.
The shredding abated, though was not eliminated. After the shocks were
installed, only under more severe road undulations, e.g. serious dip in road
and at higher speeds....or crossing railroad tracks, the fender lip would still
tickle. Feathering of the tire carcass would still occur. Rented a lip roller off
Ebay for about $80. Still not enough.

Since I was pig headed, too poor to purchase the forged rims I really wanted
(for about $5k), I pulled the tire and went with narrower. Once I was con-
vinced that this no longer resulted in cole slaw Continentals, I went to lower-
ing springs, narrower pads, and shorter shocks.

You stand a decent chance of metal to rubber contact. In the real world
here are possible reasons why they might not rub (but it's a gamble, at best):
your tires may be different model, thus the cross section/profile may prove
to be narrower.

So all I can do is give you as much of the critical specs I have and you
extrapolate and apply them to your car of similar vintage, chassis, body
style....but heavier car. I don't know how your springs and shocks might
compare or differ, ditto spring pad thickness, etc.

Bottom line is to be ready to have a game plan in case it does rub. You
can go through the trial and error, or to just pay $3-500 for 235 tires
right off the bat, and avoid the frustration. that'll give you 5mm more
room on that crucial side. Or, you can go ahead and install them and
see what develops.

hey, if you are going with w211 split spokes, you *must* get the hybrid
bolts. set should run you $55 shipped. you didn't say, so it's possible that
you have other E55 take off rim design/tires

ohlord

on a 31 et front and 265/35/18 on a 35 et rear,gives you a margin of room,,Then you may avoid rubbing,depending how low you go.

ejsheltra

Geez Raymond that rub spot looks further up the tire than I thought it would be. Looks like more than a 4mm difference.

raymond g-

excellent observation/point

CMFIC

Thanks everyone for the great information.

I'll let you know what I end up going with.