diyman

Hey everbody, I'm a rookie, just recently got my first Mercedes, a 1997 E320. So far, everything is great, but now it's time to do my first oil change. I took a look last night in the engine compatment but couldn't quickly locate the oil filter. I'm assuming it's up top and I need to remove the engine cover, but wanted to check first. Am I correct?

Secondly, I was considering using Mobil 1, 0W-40, ilo conventional, which is in there now. I have seen threads on this already, but was wondering what you think? Engine has 163,000 miles and is running great!

Also, what filter? The Mobil 1 website says to use a conventional filter, not a special Mobil 1 extended life. Is a Fram OK (it's what my local auto supply carries) or should I use a MB oil filter?

Also, I'm debating getting an oil extractor ilo gravity draining due to some other threads I've seen. Is it difficult to gravity drain (i.e., do I need to remove underbody engine covers/ shields?).

Any help for this humble rookie would be appreciated!

uberwgn

M1 0W40 would be the correct oil. I really don't know about the filter or location on that engine which is the I6, right?

I'd buy OE-grade filters in bulk, 6 at a time, for example. You'll never find el-Crappo filters in my cars...way too expen$ive.

Welcome aboard!

Max Hughes

tirona

if the engine has had conventional oil up to now, personally i would stick with conventional oil, 40 weight. these engines are prone to leak at the timing cover, and by switching from conventional to synthetic you wouldn't be helping anything.
most of the members use german-made oil filters, either from dealer or online autoparts stores (autohausaz.com, germanstar.net etc.). personally i don't think it will make a difference if you bought an oil filter from napa or any other autopart store for this time. you can only get paper oil filter for your engine, unlike the newer ones that can use extended life fleece filter. i have used the napa oil filter before when i was out of mann filters, and didn't tell a difference. so fram would be ok just for this time.
where are you located?

diyman

Max, Tirona, Uberwgn -- thanks for the info.

Max -- thanks for the diagram! I found the oil filter this morning, amazing what a little sunlight can do to see better under the hood -- the fuel lines are a bit in the way but probably manageable. Do you know what size oil filter wrench cap I need?

Uberwgn -- are the OE filters Bosch?

Tirona -- what conventional brand oil and viscosity do you use that meets the MB specs?

All -- what about oil extractor vs. oil pan gravity drain?

Thanks all very much!

tirona

you could use anything from castrol, valvoline, mobil, shell rotella etc. personally i use either mobil delvac 15w40 or rotella 15w40 summer, and rotella 10w30 winter. if you live in a warm climate like florida or texas, you could use 15w40 year round. if you live north where it's cold you could use a thick 10w30 like rotella year round. but you could use any oil brand you like as long as you change the oil/filter within the recomended interval (3-4k miles). below is the link for diy oil change of another w210, but there will be a few differences from your car like the position of oil filter, oil filter cap is different, and more o-rings for the oil filter assembly. in your case there is only one o-ring that goes to the oil filter cap, and one washer that goes to the drain plug, but if you change the oil via suction method you don't have to worry about the washer. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OilFilter2

ejsheltra

Get the Myti-vac unit from Amazon.com for about 89$ for suction type. It works great just takes a little longer but no damage issues to the oil pan screw either. Drain oil when warm not hot and not cold for best results. Use a good 10-30 for summer and 10-40 for winter if needed and change every 3K with the filter. The I 6 motors like oil and burn a little. Changing to a full synthetic would be a bad move because the viscosity is thinner and you have a higher mileage car whose gaps have probably loosened up by now requiring a thicker viscosity. Full synthetic should be used after initial break in period on newer motors and then for good. If you change every 3k miles you will never have an issue on non syn.. If you goof and go beyond 5k then expect varnish build up and oil breakdown caused by contamination. I would go with MB spec filter from autohaus.com in bulk. Your filter is on top and inverted and the MB filters are designed not to drain back at shutoff. All other brands unless specified will drain on shut off. This is important on cold starts as there is a lag time before oil pressure is up. Stick with the MB filters for long engine life. With a bottom mounted filter it is not as critical. Good luck and let the DIY begin

diyman

Thanks tirona and ejsheltra, I appreciate your thoughts. I'll stick with conventional ilo Mobil 1 and go with the MB OE filter. So far I haven't noticed any oil leaks on mine and I hope to keep it that way.

mark98115

I was not aware that there is such a thing as Mobile 1 conventional. My understanding is that the "1" mean synthetic.
I have exactly the same car that you do, and the only thing that will go in the engine is Amsoil 5-40 European Car oil. For filters I have been using Purolator.
128K miles and no leaks nor burning.

loubapache

You got most of your questions answered.

The filter cap is 74 mm with 14 flutes. That particular size is very expensive. Many use a 76 mm with 14 flutes and it will have no problem. The 76 mm size is common and most auto parts stores carry it for about $5. I have been using one for over 10 years now and it worked for all gasoline Mercedes I have owned.

You do not need to worry about oil filter anti-drain in your car. Yours is just a paper element with no mechanism whatsoever in it.

Max Hughes: what mods do you have on your M104?