ncd20

Can some one one list there function?? the second to last one on mine is blown ??

ohlord

is usually stored by the battery fuse box under the rear seat and also on the drivers side fuse box slip of heavy cardboard with list of all fuses.The ones over by the ecu usually contain wiper fuses ,wiper fluid heater fuses etc. but every model is different.Replace it and see what begins working

ncd20

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-help-pls.html

IT FIXED THE POWER PROBLEM I drove home with the full wrath of my 205 poneys last night.. car + turbo sounded awesome.. thought to my self YEEEHAAAA WOLF HOWLS ETC... but just before I got home the tranny jamed and gues what booom limp again checked the fuse again this morning and its blown again...
first I was driving with the MAF disconnect and that was ok (atleast compared to what it was like).. then I reconnected and motha have mercy cause it was going like MOTHA *BEEP BEEEP BEEEEEP** kind got me thinking you could make sports switch out of it hehe
but is it the tranny jamming/slipping that is blowning the fuse!????
and one thing i noticed is my car has 2x 7.5 amp fuses where the us car in the picture has 1x 7.5 amp fuses the rest is 10/15 and 25s

I will consult the card I figured each card was specific to each bunch of fuses location

ncd20

As I thought just had a look and each card is specific to each bunch of fuses, the ones in the "ECU box" are not even labled as numbers they are labeled as "A2" "F2" etc .. hex??

I personally suspect: cannot prove.

1) I think it could be related to the Trans TCM Selector module or AT Connector seals, surly a few drinks went down there in the life time of the car and it looks grimmey down there.. was planing of getting happy with some contact clearner as others have, but some absolute doofus at MB thought it would be cleaver to security torx it in *cant find my security torx bits*.
If it was the AT connector seals it might be shorting it.. now if you are thinking no oil will not short I hear you, I have seen whole PC's submerged in Oil *baring harddisk* doing a 3DMARK etc, however seeing as there could be micron sized metal particals all in the old oil I think you need to reconsider the conductivte propertys of long time used ATF.
This little experiment I will try when I do my flush, Im just waiting to get me a AT Connector:


2) What ever it is inside the steering wheel that is causing my indicators to malfunction (removed fuse long time) as it was constantly indicating right.. and the story of that is first the Horn stoped, then after a while at first it would just not indicate left.. then it totally lost the plot hehe. some sugest it is the stalk itself..so I dont really think this is the reason but I thought it might be worth a mention

3) I never really thought about it... but I have a aftermarket stereo it cuts out every now and again.. I presumed its a fault in the headunit.. prehaps its spiking the system and not turning off at these times.... I would just toss it and put the orignal back in as they are both 16th centuary tape players but the aftermarket one is blaupunkt and many many people who jumped in my ride before always say the sound quality is superb and a few mentioned it "sounds like it has a sub ncd20" lol so untill I have a fancy new BT/MP3/IPOD one i am reluctant to get rid of it..

with the help of benzworld and this forum i just eleminated the Horn problem, it seems the relay is clicking healthly.. argh fuse #40 blown all along hah and MR INDY who I am becomming progresivly more inclined to go and strangle hold followed by a series of neck jabs and sequence of drop kicks, swore blind it was a £200 "scrib" at a worst it was the clock spring sheesh these people cant even direct you a simple fuse before trying to Rape you

ncd20

If any one else in the UK has e320 cdi can you please confirm that there is 2x 7.5 amp fuse's in a row in the ecu box, I am just curious if the wrong fuse has been used hence it blows when the engine/tranny overloads

thank god its monday tommorow MB stealership will ordane to be open... in case you are not aware the parts depart close 2:00 on saturdays.... its like they just want to brutalise ppl in the UK for no reason.. Joy...

ncd20

also found thiis
http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/g...s/Fuse_box.jpg

I think the fuse in question is number 15 on that picture!! ...
I also read about a guy with S320 cdi, that had the same problem, he found out that fuse 41 was linked to his his 7.5 amp fuse that was blowing under the hood.. that fuse #40 and 41 are FANFARE or in human being terms Hooter/horn ....he worked out that the fuse for the horn was much higher amps then then the 7.5 one in the ecu box and this could be responsible... I think I am starting to find the root of evil here since he had to replace the "manifold motor" I was thinking I might try a 10 in there as its busted anyway whats the worst that can happen the manifold shutter motor will bow up?

and the fuse number is 2 the "F" pre designation is moreless meaningless except it might stand for FUEL heh... and on my fuse card it says "Cigar lighter" I mis read it to 6 early Doh!


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...s-blowing.html

ncd20

The above cant be right as #2 in the fuse chart is supposed to be a cigar lighter

BAFFELED+++++++++++++++++++++
ofksfofwwfojj fsd[fv voskvp vsvkpp'' ksd

loubapache

These fuses are not listed in the fuse chart. You are looking at the K40/2 module. You let me know your chassis number 210.xxx and take a picture of your fuses setup and I will look up the factory information for you. If your picture is a little fuzzy, tell me the fuse amperage.

You should have f1, f2, etc.

ncd20

ncd20

in the picture the offending 7.5 amp fuse F2 is removed.



Chassis: WDB2100262b393275
And I Can see why I got confused lol the U.S car has 6 fuses and mine has 5 @!

ncd20

that 6th fuse turns out to be a spare! ha
development:

with a fresh mind I went and picked up some more 7.5amp fuses.. pluged it in while she was on.. and hood up and instantly noticed a big elecrtical whine... and it is indeed comming from the Manifold flaps actuator thing... when i prised the actuator forward it blew the fuse and when you prise it forward just little peice it trys to retract clattering and whining even lounder... it looks like its in pain the poor thing.. hah

so fuse F2 == certainly governs the manifold shutter motor, and makes me belive it is the equivlent of fuses 15 in this pic:


But to get her running smooth I gues I'll have to do what the guy with the S320 CDI did which was to unplug it and force the arm open with a cable tie ... but it dont look so easy on mine with its wack manifold.

and I think I know what caused it diesel was leaking into it from the blead off things one way valve it sprung a leak on me a few months back and who knows how long it was dripping down into the manifold for.. grr seems to all make sense now
and just for a side note: When I first noticed this from Smoke comming out of the engine (burning diesel on the Manifold) I was told by MR INDY its a the fuel injectors $£%£!@

tnx for such a crappy one way valve MB

If there is another way round this I am all ears

Manifold Motor Disabled

I used a wire coathanger to keep the actuator extended and wired it down against the manifold, disconnect the plug and boy that was a bit tricky, went for a spin and no change wtf i thought, so I pulled every signal one of the 5 fuses and tryed again instantly I could see the trubo actuator moving so I knew it worked went out for a spin again and no fuses blown ;D
Hopefully Done and Dusted ... Total cost to fix £1.50 of fuses and a wire coathanger bit of aggrovation.

if the fuse blows again when I go driving later.. then well it will turn it all on its head again but i think its surely solved.

I would also still be curious to know if its safe to run it with a higher amp fuse prehaps its just decided to draw like 8.5 amps or something as its shorting a little peice cause of the diesel leak or its just worn out a bit but seeing as the car initially works with out being forced to my mind it still serves its function adequately so would prefer to run the car in stock condition obviously.

apart from the noise... I cant see how this is a problem.. but with out knowing if there is a main fuse of some type to act as a safty harness its not something that I want to do, risk of blowing up the ECU..
prehaps some diodes might be helpfull here on the wireing to the motor.

if some one would like let me know what apart from less fuel economy is the conquences of driving like that

ncd20

ncd20

I was running the math through a zener diode calculator 13.5Max 13.5 Min and 12v Output @ 7500mA ... it awnswers:

Diode = 12v. 90 Watts
R = 0.2 Ohms. 11.25 Watts

I wonder if this is obtainable as a component??

loubapache

That is why I want you to post your own picture. Your car was never sold in the USA and it is right hand drive.

So the picture is your passenger (left) side. If that is the cae, you are looking at the K40/4 module and there are 5 fuses.

F1 - 7.5 A Circuit fuse
F2 - 10 A Diesel Engine Control
F3 - 25 A Diesel Engine Control
F4 - 10 A Traction control ESP
F5 - 10 A ETC (That is the transmission control unit)

The above is what the factory WIS said. You need to confirm with your dealer.

ncd20

tnx loubapache very usefull .. if WIS is right then well..

I wonder if MB techs secretly replace the 7.5 with a 10 after the 100mi interval or so as the manifold motor starts to get old.. car been perfect since I deleted it.. tranny slips and jams a hell of lot less now as well infact it only slips under big load and the jams are cleary related to the ATF reaching the 80C value it must be low or the fluid is fubar, mine has 128K on it
might F3 be the "overall" fuse so to look after the ecu @ 25amps, would they blow in series if one system overloaded .. if that is the correct way to think about it ... surely anything up to the next fuses rating can be used
in any event it looks like we have together got the root of the problems