martz

and Royal purple are remarkedly superior. And to think all I hear on this board is MOBIL 1, MOBIL 1........

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Airetime

Gee that looks like a completely un-biased review from where again, Australia?

Looks like one man's opinion, but you know what they say about opinions, right?

stickygreen

Hmmm...then it must be a fluke that my 240k-mile e320 with original, unopened motor (yes, even HG & timing cover gasket) has been so absolutely flawless with a steady diet of Mobil 1 since it's first oil change at 5k. Never even had to add a quart between 7.5-10k oil change intervals.

Mobil 1 must be garbage...

martz

WHOA!!!!! easy, down boy down, I never said its garbage, as I use it too. Their just seems to be better oils out there for engine wear protection and scaring.

ejsheltra

Mobil One ? My college roomate's dad worked for Mobil Corp in the 70's and he was part of a test fleet program for Mobil One Synthetic Oil. A 1977 Chevy Impala with the V8 350 was used in a fleet of 150 cars to run on Mobil One for 250000 miles with no oil changes and only adding oil as needed and change the filter every 15000 miles. When torn down at 250K his motor's cylinder walls showed less than 4/1000 taper from top to bottom. Now go ask an engine builder how that stacks up.

socalsounds

Mobil 1 remains the most common premium-car factory oil fill, is the most reliably factory-tested and has the most R&D behind it, period. It is by no means a poor oil; not even a no-name, dino 5-30 that meets SL/SM standards is poor. But good synthetics like Mobil 1 (and yours!) simply have better shear qualities and lower ash on burn-down.

That said, I would be suprised if you find an oil with better ash and friction coefficients than Mobil 1 0W40 EF, and that is also reccomended by Mercedes Benz.

Lancelot

Shell Helix Ultra 0W-40 (dunno if it's available in the USA) meets API SM and has MB-Aproval 229.5. It is the OEM oil Ferrari and Porsche are using.

tirona

try that with m112 and see what happens

ron m.

Interesting article. The test itself is very straightforward and simple, there there are some good contrast in the results (amp load, scarring, weight applied to breech the oil). But I suppose there are other factors that have been left out to consider (namely heat and viscosity effects, and a combination of those).

I also googled "synthetic oil comparison" and in one comparison, Royal Purple was ranked in the middle.
http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oi...nst_oils.shtml

FYI: I use Mobil 1.

ohlord

add my patent pending oil additive to mobil1 0w40 and exceed all of the specs.
Reduce engine wear to almost zero reduce friction to the lowest levels(nasa)
and increase mpg up to 10%.No harm to filters and proven in dozens of tests

neither of the oils that the op posted is even mb spec. for the m112 and m113 engines
and durablend only meets 229.3
ya takes your chances

Yacht Master

Good one

ejsheltra

I only use Mobil one 10-30 full synthetic in my MB cars and the others. I race SCCA GT1 and SVRA in a modified 1970 302 Boss pushing 472 rwhp. This is with the same block the car came with 39 years ago running on Mobil One with zinc additive for the non hardened seats. No engine failures. Why would I change to an unproven when I have that history behind me? Oil will basically last forever. It is the contaminants that cause the damage and mostly on start up. The other culprit is heat. The internals of an engine can reach 400F. Oil must keep moving to vent off the heat it soaks up. Standard oil starts to breakdown at about 260F and synthetics at about just north of 300F. The carrier oil in synthetics has a much stronger molecular bond than in conventional oils. There is your advantage. The molecular shearing loads a synthetic oil can withstand are much greater than conventional oils.There is a good article in this month's Mustang Monthly on oil and the changes made since zinc was pulled from all motor oils. You sound like someone who understands your chemistry so I will not explain why zinc has been used and is used in racing applications. I know you probably already are aware of that. Full synthetics for these current crop of motors are perfect. As long as you change with constant frequency and don't forget a good filter you will have no worries. I humbly prefer what has worked for me for the past 39 years. Best of luck.

ejsheltra

BTW Tirona my first MB was a new 1990 300e with 252000 miles in 17 years running only on Mobil One 10-30. It was, sadly, rear ended and totaled. The motor was reused and torn down and cylinder wall taper was 3/1000 in cylinders 1-5 and 4/1000 in number 6. No heat marks on any of the mains or cam bearings. The valve seals were again in need of replacement as that was last done at 125K miles. and oh yeah no varnish build up anywhere. All that with oil and filter change every 6K miles and paper air filter every other oil change. That is also my current regimen on the Brabus modded M112 and at 76K miles no varnish inside the valve covers and they were just pulled to be powder coated silver. I am pleased with the results so far. Can you share what you have used and what your personal real world experiences have been? i am always interested in learning more...

tirona

ejsheltra, i wasn't saying mobil is not good oil, on the contrary i use mobil. all i was saying is that m112 cannot tolerate the same as the 1977 chevy 350. so with my comment i meant you wouldn't get same result with m112 as you did back then with chevy 350.
also the m103 in your old 300e is way more bulletproof than the m112.

tirona

i learned how to drive when i was 14 with 1983 240d (w123). when we got that car it already had 150k km. my dad changed the filter on that car once a year and the oil once every 2-3 years and the oil he used was either agip or esso. my dad himself put over 350k km on that car in bad roads and always bought the cheapest diesel, and engine at past 500k km was still in good running condition when he sold the car for around $200. that car would never die, no matter how bad was abused. but that was different era.
personally though i would never change the oil in my cars that way. 4-5k miles interval for dino, and 7-8k miles for synthetic.

Figuero

Frankly...... this is testing how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.
Go with a 229.3 rated oil, follow the viscosity requirements, change it on schedule. You will not have an oil related engine failure. < That's a period.