Local Gas Station mechanic for brakes & Oil change?
#1
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Local Gas Station mechanic for brakes & Oil change?
This will be my 2nd experience getting work done outside the dealership, so I could use some perspective.
2001 E320 with 125,000 miles. I plan to keep it for the long haul, at least until 200,000. I drive 14,000 miles per year, half freeway, half surface streets. I drive very conservatively unless there are open twisties where I enjoy pulling some gforce.
Modifications:
Not at the Dealer: Bridgestone RE050 tires on 17" AMG wheels, Eibach springs (at 500 miles), Koni shocks (at 75,000 miles), Cat-back Remus muffler at 95,000 miles at the same time one cat needed replacing. Resonator removed. Headlamps replaced with brighter lamps reco'd here that I've had in the box for 4 years, just installed last week at the gas station.
Stuff replaced at the Dealer over the years: Dashboard display, right motor mount thingy at 85,000 miles (motor was shaking). Transmission oil changed at approx. 105,000.
Now, I am 2,000 miles over the B service, and the brake wear indicator just came on.
I just had the front headlamps replaced at the service garage of the 76 station across from my office when one went out ... VERY CONVENIENT. So I'm thinking he can change the oil and brake pads & rotors if needed. I called him, he said no sweat, they charge $35 less per hour than the dealer on work, and I just need to pick up the pads, rotors, sensors, the oil filter, and the oil too if I want to save $$
I checked a few threads here and the tirerack akebono ceramic pads look good, and if I need rotors, the entry level Brembo replacement rotors also at Tirerack look fine... I am very easy on brakes... is there any reason to spend $8 more on the ATE slotted rotors?
OK, cool. What do you guys think?
Also, I'm looking for an indy mechanic in Sherman Oaks, but the problem is one of transportation to and from the office... the dealer situation is so easy since they just give me a free c320, and though I'll save $$ with an Indy, it is really a hassle to have to arrange rides or go rent a car from an agency.
2001 E320 with 125,000 miles. I plan to keep it for the long haul, at least until 200,000. I drive 14,000 miles per year, half freeway, half surface streets. I drive very conservatively unless there are open twisties where I enjoy pulling some gforce.
Modifications:
Not at the Dealer: Bridgestone RE050 tires on 17" AMG wheels, Eibach springs (at 500 miles), Koni shocks (at 75,000 miles), Cat-back Remus muffler at 95,000 miles at the same time one cat needed replacing. Resonator removed. Headlamps replaced with brighter lamps reco'd here that I've had in the box for 4 years, just installed last week at the gas station.
Stuff replaced at the Dealer over the years: Dashboard display, right motor mount thingy at 85,000 miles (motor was shaking). Transmission oil changed at approx. 105,000.
Now, I am 2,000 miles over the B service, and the brake wear indicator just came on.
I just had the front headlamps replaced at the service garage of the 76 station across from my office when one went out ... VERY CONVENIENT. So I'm thinking he can change the oil and brake pads & rotors if needed. I called him, he said no sweat, they charge $35 less per hour than the dealer on work, and I just need to pick up the pads, rotors, sensors, the oil filter, and the oil too if I want to save $$
I checked a few threads here and the tirerack akebono ceramic pads look good, and if I need rotors, the entry level Brembo replacement rotors also at Tirerack look fine... I am very easy on brakes... is there any reason to spend $8 more on the ATE slotted rotors?
OK, cool. What do you guys think?
Also, I'm looking for an indy mechanic in Sherman Oaks, but the problem is one of transportation to and from the office... the dealer situation is so easy since they just give me a free c320, and though I'll save $$ with an Indy, it is really a hassle to have to arrange rides or go rent a car from an agency.
Last edited by DunninLA; 09-04-2009 at 01:36 PM.
#2
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Thread Starter
couple more questions --
Is Mobil1 0-40 the right grade for Socal? 6-pack on amazon for $47, so I'll order 2.
There are a zillion oil filters out there... but none at tirerack so I simply googled it --
I assume I want not paper but rather fleece, right? Here is one, is it as good as any other? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
Here is another, a little cheaper (if I buy 4): http://www.germanfilters.com/2001-me...k-p-56038.html
Is Mobil1 0-40 the right grade for Socal? 6-pack on amazon for $47, so I'll order 2.
There are a zillion oil filters out there... but none at tirerack so I simply googled it --
I assume I want not paper but rather fleece, right? Here is one, is it as good as any other? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
Here is another, a little cheaper (if I buy 4): http://www.germanfilters.com/2001-me...k-p-56038.html
#3
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that all sounds about right. be sure you review the *total* cost for the
items, including shipping. some places offer flat rate shipping, some offer
free if over $X, etc.
items, including shipping. some places offer flat rate shipping, some offer
free if over $X, etc.
#4
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2001 E320 RWD - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 100,000+
Agree with Raymond, and notice that the germanfilters.com offers free shipping if over $55 and that 4-pack just makes it @ $57.34. Mobil1 0W40 is what you want. No need for slotted rotors IMO (Brembos you mentioned should be fine) and a lot of people like the Akebono ceramic pads. Brakes are not a hard job and if you know the shop does good work they should be able to handle it.
Last edited by Musikmann; 09-08-2009 at 08:12 AM.
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98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
You want Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic - European Formula. Pep Boys is $6.99 or $41.94 + tax which is still cheaper than amazon.
You must use a fleece filter if you want to use the FSS to monitor the oil and notify you of the next change.
Plug your car info into a site like autohausaz_dot_com and it will give you the correct OEM fleece and paper filters. For SoCal they are a convenient supplier and ship very quickly (mostly same day). BTW, they supply the MANN filter (from Germany) and same one as in the box from the dealer.
Are you sure you need rotors? Brake pad sensor is for pads. Most people get at least a couple of pad changes per set of rotors. If you're light on the brakes you will probably do better. Measuring and recording rotor thickness is part of B service.
BTW, if you haven't already done so, I would suggest that you discuss your plan to supply the parts and supplies yourself. Some mechanics include the profit they can get (about 40%) in their estimates to make the labor seem more reasonable.
IMHO, a dealer will do a more thorough B service than an indy generally but there are certainly exceptions.
Transportation issue: cab?
Good luck
You must use a fleece filter if you want to use the FSS to monitor the oil and notify you of the next change.
Plug your car info into a site like autohausaz_dot_com and it will give you the correct OEM fleece and paper filters. For SoCal they are a convenient supplier and ship very quickly (mostly same day). BTW, they supply the MANN filter (from Germany) and same one as in the box from the dealer.
Are you sure you need rotors? Brake pad sensor is for pads. Most people get at least a couple of pad changes per set of rotors. If you're light on the brakes you will probably do better. Measuring and recording rotor thickness is part of B service.
BTW, if you haven't already done so, I would suggest that you discuss your plan to supply the parts and supplies yourself. Some mechanics include the profit they can get (about 40%) in their estimates to make the labor seem more reasonable.
IMHO, a dealer will do a more thorough B service than an indy generally but there are certainly exceptions.
Transportation issue: cab?
Good luck
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Thank you all for your replies.
I did order the 12 quarts of oil from Amazon.com. Ordered the Mann Oil Filter + Mann Air Filter (x2 for both) from authouseaz.com, which somehow directed me to autopartswarehouse.com *edited*. With CA tax came to $56.59, free delivery.
I ordered the pads from Tirerack, both front and rear (don't know which is out, probably front, but will eventually need both). Dealer had told me Friday that at 95,000 miles front pads and rotors were replaced, and that they replace rotors on average every other pad change, so I didn't order rotors.
I expect the oil, filters and pads to all be here by Wednesday, so I'll have the work done Thursday.
RichardM98 -- did a google search and found some discussions indicating Moble1 0w-40 is the same as Mobile1 0w-40 European Formula... just different packaging names for different distribution channels. As to price, the $47 from amazon supposedly has a $10 rebate coupon, so $37 I think will be a lot less than $45 at Pep Boys, plus I don't have to drive to Pep Boys to pick up and waste 25 minutes. I just seem to always dislike going to a store for one thing... seems like a waste of time and gas.
I did order the 12 quarts of oil from Amazon.com. Ordered the Mann Oil Filter + Mann Air Filter (x2 for both) from authouseaz.com, which somehow directed me to autopartswarehouse.com *edited*. With CA tax came to $56.59, free delivery.
I ordered the pads from Tirerack, both front and rear (don't know which is out, probably front, but will eventually need both). Dealer had told me Friday that at 95,000 miles front pads and rotors were replaced, and that they replace rotors on average every other pad change, so I didn't order rotors.
I expect the oil, filters and pads to all be here by Wednesday, so I'll have the work done Thursday.
RichardM98 -- did a google search and found some discussions indicating Moble1 0w-40 is the same as Mobile1 0w-40 European Formula... just different packaging names for different distribution channels. As to price, the $47 from amazon supposedly has a $10 rebate coupon, so $37 I think will be a lot less than $45 at Pep Boys, plus I don't have to drive to Pep Boys to pick up and waste 25 minutes. I just seem to always dislike going to a store for one thing... seems like a waste of time and gas.
Last edited by DunninLA; 09-08-2009 at 03:52 PM.
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2001 E320 RWD - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 100,000+
Re 0W40: I have seen bottles that say European Formula and some that didn't. I thought one label was newer than the other but your explanation makes just as much sense. Just make sure it says MB Spec 229.5 on it somewhere and you should be fine. Good luck.
Last edited by Musikmann; 09-08-2009 at 02:13 PM.
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98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
autohausaz.com doesn't charge tax to California customers. I get the correct site when I enter the URL as above. If you entered authouseaz.com (as in your post above) as the URL you may have been directed to the closest match by your browser.
I've never encountered the Mobil 1 0W-40 without the European Formula label. That doesn't mean it's not out there. Mercedes list of approved lubricants lists it with European Formula designation in the name. As MM pointed out, just make sure it is approved for MB Spec 229.5 on the label.
I do my own maintenance so slightly different needs.
I've never encountered the Mobil 1 0W-40 without the European Formula label. That doesn't mean it's not out there. Mercedes list of approved lubricants lists it with European Formula designation in the name. As MM pointed out, just make sure it is approved for MB Spec 229.5 on the label.
I do my own maintenance so slightly different needs.
#9
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Thread Starter
My bad. I had entered autohouseaz.com instead of the correct
http://www.autohausaz.com/
The wrong URL then directed me to a list of auto supply websites, and I used autopartswarehouse.com.
It all worked out though I would have saved about $1.50 with autohausaz.com. Package arrived today, ordered Friday... would have arrived Monday except for the Holiday.
http://www.autohausaz.com/
The wrong URL then directed me to a list of auto supply websites, and I used autopartswarehouse.com.
It all worked out though I would have saved about $1.50 with autohausaz.com. Package arrived today, ordered Friday... would have arrived Monday except for the Holiday.
Last edited by DunninLA; 09-08-2009 at 03:51 PM.
#10
i must say, nothing against the 210 owners out there, but i really feel like the majority of you owners out there insist on bringing your car to the dealer for things. I dont know why
And as for brake pads and rotors and service B? why? I thought the point of these forums were for others to lend assistance. Im sure there is a TON of diy on service B procedures.
Not trying to put you down or anything but lets just be realistic here. Im assuming you have owned this car new and have always brought it to the dealer and spent thousands in general maintenance. You plan on keeping this car pretty much its whole life so why not learn how to do a few things on your own? Especially a brake job and an oil change. Ok, for someone who has never stuck there head under a hood before i guess the spark plugs could be a bit of an issue on these 210's, but again with some research anything can be done by an average blue collar. I just really think that it could be beneficial for you to learn how to do this on your car so you can save yourself some money considering that labor is usually more than the parts.
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
And as for brake pads and rotors and service B? why? I thought the point of these forums were for others to lend assistance. Im sure there is a TON of diy on service B procedures.
Not trying to put you down or anything but lets just be realistic here. Im assuming you have owned this car new and have always brought it to the dealer and spent thousands in general maintenance. You plan on keeping this car pretty much its whole life so why not learn how to do a few things on your own? Especially a brake job and an oil change. Ok, for someone who has never stuck there head under a hood before i guess the spark plugs could be a bit of an issue on these 210's, but again with some research anything can be done by an average blue collar. I just really think that it could be beneficial for you to learn how to do this on your car so you can save yourself some money considering that labor is usually more than the parts.
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2003 e320 wagon (210 chassis NOT a 211))
Sherman Oaks
Where in Sherman Oaks are you?
Keyes MBZ dealership is *IN* Sherman Oaks, and there's a pretty good independent MBZ mechanic on Burbank Blvd. at Kester ave.
Boulevard Auto Repair
14857 Burbank Blvd., Van Nuys, CA -
(818) 989-6028
http://www.blvdautorepair.com/
Ask for Pedro or Nelson. They will also drive & pick you up to/from work if you make an appointment & specify you need a ride.
Heck, pick up a small bike (e.g. bmx) to keep in the trunk & you could ride to the office... no hills!
Keyes MBZ dealership is *IN* Sherman Oaks, and there's a pretty good independent MBZ mechanic on Burbank Blvd. at Kester ave.
Boulevard Auto Repair
14857 Burbank Blvd., Van Nuys, CA -
(818) 989-6028
http://www.blvdautorepair.com/
Ask for Pedro or Nelson. They will also drive & pick you up to/from work if you make an appointment & specify you need a ride.
Heck, pick up a small bike (e.g. bmx) to keep in the trunk & you could ride to the office... no hills!
#12
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#13
Senior Member
i must say, nothing against the 210 owners out there, but i really feel like the majority of you owners out there insist on bringing your car to the dealer for things. I dont know why
And as for brake pads and rotors and service B? why? I thought the point of these forums were for others to lend assistance. Im sure there is a TON of diy on service B procedures.
snip
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
And as for brake pads and rotors and service B? why? I thought the point of these forums were for others to lend assistance. Im sure there is a TON of diy on service B procedures.
snip
#14
You've never heard anyone here suggest a dealer? Its strange that you say that on this thread seeing as how the person that created this thread has already said that he has brought his car to the dealer a couple times, and is looking for another private shop to do more work.
#15
i must say, nothing against the 210 owners out there, but i really feel like the majority of you owners out there insist on bringing your car to the dealer for things. I dont know why
And as for brake pads and rotors and service B? why? I thought the point of these forums were for others to lend assistance. Im sure there is a TON of diy on service B procedures.
Not trying to put you down or anything but lets just be realistic here. Im assuming you have owned this car new and have always brought it to the dealer and spent thousands in general maintenance. You plan on keeping this car pretty much its whole life so why not learn how to do a few things on your own? Especially a brake job and an oil change. Ok, for someone who has never stuck there head under a hood before i guess the spark plugs could be a bit of an issue on these 210's, but again with some research anything can be done by an average blue collar. I just really think that it could be beneficial for you to learn how to do this on your car so you can save yourself some money considering that labor is usually more than the parts.
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
And as for brake pads and rotors and service B? why? I thought the point of these forums were for others to lend assistance. Im sure there is a TON of diy on service B procedures.
Not trying to put you down or anything but lets just be realistic here. Im assuming you have owned this car new and have always brought it to the dealer and spent thousands in general maintenance. You plan on keeping this car pretty much its whole life so why not learn how to do a few things on your own? Especially a brake job and an oil change. Ok, for someone who has never stuck there head under a hood before i guess the spark plugs could be a bit of an issue on these 210's, but again with some research anything can be done by an average blue collar. I just really think that it could be beneficial for you to learn how to do this on your car so you can save yourself some money considering that labor is usually more than the parts.
#16
Senior Member
You've never heard anyone here suggest a dealer? Its strange that you say that on this thread seeing as how the person that created this thread has already said that he has brought his car to the dealer a couple times, and is looking for another private shop to do more work.
Last edited by 01BlackE320; 09-12-2009 at 06:09 PM.
#17
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98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
It's generally recommended to use the dealer for MB four wheel alignment.
AFAIK, you'll need the dealer for recoding a new Smart key, replacement of ECU and instrument cluster (due to odometer laws).
AFAIK, you'll need the dealer for recoding a new Smart key, replacement of ECU and instrument cluster (due to odometer laws).
#18
Sorry blackE320.
I just feel like whenver i check the 210 forums I hear, "The dealer said..." or "The dealer charged me..." Just trying to help my fellow Mercedes owners out there
.
But dont get me wrong the dealer is needed for things just not for everything. As RichardM said, coding keys, instrument clusters, resetting air bag lights etc...
I just feel like whenver i check the 210 forums I hear, "The dealer said..." or "The dealer charged me..." Just trying to help my fellow Mercedes owners out there
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
But dont get me wrong the dealer is needed for things just not for everything. As RichardM said, coding keys, instrument clusters, resetting air bag lights etc...
#19
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Thread Starter
Well, I think it all turned out fine.
The front brake job cost me $115 labor/misc. parts at the 76 station, plus $66 including shipping for the front ceramic pads, so $181.
Oil change cost me $35 labor plus $63 for the oil, plus $14 for the filter = $112
Air filter change was $14 for the filter.
Being able to drop off/pick up the car a two minute walk from my office... priceless.
P.S. There are two mechanics at this station. The one who changed out my headlamp last month is the one who did the job. He told me it wasn't necessary to resurface the rotor (a $150 job at their rates). The OTHER mechanic, who greeted me not knowing I had already spoken with the other guy, tried to convince me that I absolutely needed to have the rotors resurfaced. I asked WHY? That the dealer told me they usually go two changes of pads, then changed out the rotors since they're cheap anyway. He said "we need to resurface the rotors, because if we don't and you come back complaining if it makes squalling noises, we don't like that"
What a dishonest loser that second mechanic is.
The front brake job cost me $115 labor/misc. parts at the 76 station, plus $66 including shipping for the front ceramic pads, so $181.
Oil change cost me $35 labor plus $63 for the oil, plus $14 for the filter = $112
Air filter change was $14 for the filter.
Being able to drop off/pick up the car a two minute walk from my office... priceless.
P.S. There are two mechanics at this station. The one who changed out my headlamp last month is the one who did the job. He told me it wasn't necessary to resurface the rotor (a $150 job at their rates). The OTHER mechanic, who greeted me not knowing I had already spoken with the other guy, tried to convince me that I absolutely needed to have the rotors resurfaced. I asked WHY? That the dealer told me they usually go two changes of pads, then changed out the rotors since they're cheap anyway. He said "we need to resurface the rotors, because if we don't and you come back complaining if it makes squalling noises, we don't like that"
What a dishonest loser that second mechanic is.
#20
Senior Member
Prices sound fair. He wasn't really that dishonest. You probably could get by without resurfacing the rotors, but there is a much better chance of the brakes being noisy. Many shops resurface rotors as standard procedure