Floppy side mirror ( w210 ) fix
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Floppy side mirror ( w210 ) fix
The w210 side mirrors have a tendency to become floppy and act like they are about to fall off. There is a spring in the mirror under tension holding the mirror against the door, while still allowing the mirror to hinge backward and forward if it is hit. The problem is that the attachment hook for the spring is poorly designed and will bend over or break off releasing the tension on the spring. The fix is to remove the cover and reattach the spring to something.
The detailed DIY is as follows:
1. Adjust the edge of the mirror nearest the door so that it will clear the cover when it is removed ( about 1/4" recessed).
2. Push the mirror back against the door and look into the workings. You will see a wire bail that holds the cover on. pry the bail from behind the tabs on the cover and carefully pull the cover off. (see pictures, the bail is on the right side).
3. You will notice that the spring end is not attached. If the attachment hook is bent over, break it the rest of the way off and get it out of the way.
4. The fix is to take an 8 or 9 inch piece of "noncorrosive safety lock wire" and run it behind the mirror backbone (go under the electrical wires ) and run it through the end of the spring, and back by the front so the wire ends can be twisted together. (see picture one)
5. Grab the twisted end with a standard plier, pull to stretch the spring and twist the wire. Repeat pulling, then twisting, until the twisted wire has pulled the spring back to near where it was before the hook broke. Clip off the excess twist and bend the end up out of the way of the cover. ( see picture two). I added a second wire to share the load.
6. Carefully slide the cover back on. Make sure the tab, seen to the left of the wire twists, fits into the receptical in the cover. The cover should snap in place as the bail pops behind the tabs on the cover.
Just a comment on "safety lock wire". This is a stainless steel wire used by car racers and aircraft mechanics to secure critical bolts and other parts. It is designed to be twisted without breaking the way regular wire will when tightly twisted. It is available at Harbour Freight for small money. It has a thousand uses in any shop.
The detailed DIY is as follows:
1. Adjust the edge of the mirror nearest the door so that it will clear the cover when it is removed ( about 1/4" recessed).
2. Push the mirror back against the door and look into the workings. You will see a wire bail that holds the cover on. pry the bail from behind the tabs on the cover and carefully pull the cover off. (see pictures, the bail is on the right side).
3. You will notice that the spring end is not attached. If the attachment hook is bent over, break it the rest of the way off and get it out of the way.
4. The fix is to take an 8 or 9 inch piece of "noncorrosive safety lock wire" and run it behind the mirror backbone (go under the electrical wires ) and run it through the end of the spring, and back by the front so the wire ends can be twisted together. (see picture one)
5. Grab the twisted end with a standard plier, pull to stretch the spring and twist the wire. Repeat pulling, then twisting, until the twisted wire has pulled the spring back to near where it was before the hook broke. Clip off the excess twist and bend the end up out of the way of the cover. ( see picture two). I added a second wire to share the load.
6. Carefully slide the cover back on. Make sure the tab, seen to the left of the wire twists, fits into the receptical in the cover. The cover should snap in place as the bail pops behind the tabs on the cover.
Just a comment on "safety lock wire". This is a stainless steel wire used by car racers and aircraft mechanics to secure critical bolts and other parts. It is designed to be twisted without breaking the way regular wire will when tightly twisted. It is available at Harbour Freight for small money. It has a thousand uses in any shop.
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systom (08-30-2016)
#2
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96 e320, 91 Eagle Talon, 98 SVT Cobra, 74 MGB-GT, 74 TR6
Excellent! Can't wait to do this one. I've got the floppy mirror problem also. Potomac German Auto quoted me over $300 for a USED one. (Wtf?)
#3
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2005 E320 4matic wagon
floppy side mirror
I have a similar problem, but not a broken spring. The mirror chassis or frame is attached to the mount at a hinge -like point. It looks like the top arm of the frame is broken, bottom one is OK, spring seems Ok. I think it's the arm just below the "ABS -PC" mark in your mirror photo. Anyone try an epoxy repair on this or have success getting a new chassis? Never had the cover off before. How do you remove the mirror cover?
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#9
Wire Size?
This is very good to know. I have two floppy mirrors.
What is the recommend size of the wire to use. > .025 or < than .025. The only place I can find the Stainless Steel Lock wire is online. I want to be sure I order the right size for the job.
What is the recommend size of the wire to use. > .025 or < than .025. The only place I can find the Stainless Steel Lock wire is online. I want to be sure I order the right size for the job.
Last edited by thoray; 07-01-2010 at 06:43 PM.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The stainless safety lock wire I used was 0.041" or abt. 1 mm. If you have a Harbour Freight near by, they have this wire for abt. $8 for one pound, a lifetime supply even for someone like me who was trained on the farm to do baler wire repair. Other sizes would work but you could use more wires to get the strength you need. I used two, but one would probably have been enough. It is just "seat of the pants" engineering. I see you have a C class. Is that the car with the floppy mirrors, or do you also have an E class? Not sure the fix works on C class mirrors.
Last edited by nelbur; 07-01-2010 at 08:30 PM.
#11
Floppy Mirrors
The stainless safety lock wire I used was 0.041" or abt. 1 mm. If you have a Harbour Freight near by, they have this wire for abt. $8 for one pound, a lifetime supply even for someone like me who was trained on the farm to do baler wire repair. Other sizes would work but you could use more wires to get the strength you need. I used two, but one would probably have been enough. It is just "seat of the pants" engineering. I see you have a C class. Is that the car with the floppy mirrors, or do you also have an E class? Not sure the fix works on C class mirrors.
Yes, i have a C class. The pictures look the same so this fix should work.
#12
Newbie
thanks but the
Thanks a lot for this procedure. It worked 100% fine for me. I just used some copper wire. I think it was a 14 guage romex...used in walls.
however now I have another problem...the position memory is not working anymore. At first I thought I had to re-program the mirror position memories again.....so I did that. But even after doing that the mirror does not remember its position.
It overshoots and goes all the way to the end of the travel and then keeps going on! It hits the stops and makes a tick tick sound and the mirror jerks against the end stops
I think there is some position sensor which is damaged or needs to be cleaned.
Any tips?
however now I have another problem...the position memory is not working anymore. At first I thought I had to re-program the mirror position memories again.....so I did that. But even after doing that the mirror does not remember its position.
It overshoots and goes all the way to the end of the travel and then keeps going on! It hits the stops and makes a tick tick sound and the mirror jerks against the end stops
I think there is some position sensor which is damaged or needs to be cleaned.
Any tips?
#13
w210 Mirror Fix
Great writeup. My mirrors became loose after some autobody work. They must have tried to remove the covers for a paint touch up job and brooke the spring hooks. I used zip ties to secure my springs.
The following 2 users liked this post by gdraper:
systom (08-30-2016),
therealp31 (06-28-2018)
The following users liked this post:
systom (08-30-2016)
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I am not sure if the zip ties have the strength to hold up to the tension of the spring over time, however it is easy enough to re-repair it if necessary. I noticed from gdraper's first picture, that he has not stretched the spring back to where the old spring hook was located, so the lower tension may make the zip tie work well, if the mirror is held tight enough to keep it from vibrating.
Last edited by nelbur; 09-25-2010 at 08:45 PM.
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therealp31 (06-28-2018)
#17
Hmmm.
I have a 2000 320CDI with turn light in the mirrors.
I really cant see this tingy to flip to remove cover.
Sombody has stolen both my mirrors so I should just pop the new ones in, but aint that easy.
I have a 2000 320CDI with turn light in the mirrors.
I really cant see this tingy to flip to remove cover.
Sombody has stolen both my mirrors so I should just pop the new ones in, but aint that easy.
#19
Im not shure if its the same.
I have taken some pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/chris.ulriksen/Bil#
I really cant see where to open it.
Someone have stolen both my mirrors.
I have taken some pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/chris.ulriksen/Bil#
I really cant see where to open it.
Someone have stolen both my mirrors.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Im not shure if its the same.
I have taken some pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/chris.ulriksen/Bil#
I really cant see where to open it.
Someone have stolen both my mirrors.
I have taken some pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/chris.ulriksen/Bil#
I really cant see where to open it.
Someone have stolen both my mirrors.
for both 96-99 models.....as well as 00-02
#21
Yea, I have read allot and seen 2 different videos, but I cant find that metall tingy to flap over to take off cover.
Not the long thin one and not the shiny small one.
Might be just me thats blind.
It should be a 00 mod.
Not the long thin one and not the shiny small one.
Might be just me thats blind.
It should be a 00 mod.
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
more likely that it's jammed. it'll take quite a ham fisted person to break it.
try going underneath like I did one time on a stubborn latch. look for the
PDF i posted with pics, showing the angled screwdriver i used.
try going underneath like I did one time on a stubborn latch. look for the
PDF i posted with pics, showing the angled screwdriver i used.