E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Dealer suggested the following:

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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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Dealer suggested the following:

Took my 2002 E320 in and had oil/filter, Cooland flush, brake fluid flush. Car just turned 43,000 miles. Looks brand new. I only drive it on the weekends.

Dealer commented the car looks great, not one single leak, can tell it's been very well taken care of. He suggested changing the plugs $425. Wow, that's expensive. And changing the fuel pump! The car gets excellent fuel economy and runs like a rocket ship. I realize the plugs are good for 100K so I assume the time thing is carbon build up or something? The fuel pump? What do you think?

Here she is.....



Last edited by guitarplayer; Feb 25, 2010 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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1999 e430 with 88634 miles
I still havent changed the plugs on mine, and dont plan to until around 100k miles. And I found an indy who will do my plugs for 360, and I have four more plugs than you do. I dont think i've ever touched my fuel pump as well. I say no. Did you go to a dealer in florida or in ohio? Bill Ussery down in miami is known for being pretty bad with recommendations.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:40 PM
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It was here in Ohio. I did however, buy the car in Florida.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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1999 e430 with 88634 miles
If you dont notice anything wrong with the car, I wouldnt change anything. If you are concerned though, try asking the dealer to SHOW you the plugs, and explain to you exactly why platinum plugs that are rated to last about 100k miles need to be changed at 43000. Looking over the service records on my Carfax report, some idiot who had the car before me had the motor mounts changed at 30K. The stealership is pretty bad if they recommend things like that.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by OverEngineered
If you dont notice anything wrong with the car, I wouldnt change anything. If you are concerned though, try asking the dealer to SHOW you the plugs, and explain to you exactly why platinum plugs that are rated to last about 100k miles need to be changed at 43000. Looking over the service records on my Carfax report, some idiot who had the car before me had the motor mounts changed at 30K. The stealership is pretty bad if they recommend things like that.
that idiot probably had it covered under warranty...now you are the idiot who effectively has motor mounts which are 30k miles newer

all i have to say is that preventative maintenance pays for itself many times over
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:42 PM
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I notice some of you go to Indy shops/dealers to change the spark plugs. Is it really that hard to change it on the W210? I'm going to change mine soon.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBoss
I notice some of you go to Indy shops/dealers to change the spark plugs. Is it really that hard to change it on the W210? I'm going to change mine soon.
make sure you don't over-torque those things if you do it yourself...take it to someone who knows what they're doing - is a couple hundred $'s worth the potential downside risk?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarplayer
Took my 2002 E320 in and had oil/filter, Cooland flush, brake fluid flush. Car just turned 43,000 miles. Looks brand new. I only drive it on the weekends.

Dealer commented the car looks great, not one single leak, can tell it's been very well taken care of. He suggested changing the plugs $425. Wow, that's expensive. And changing the fuel pump! The car gets excellent fuel economy and runs like a rocket ship. I realize the plugs are good for 100K so I assume the time thing is carbon build up or something? The fuel pump? What do you think?

Here she is.....


Well, I suppose his job is to recommend something. Factory recommend plug change is 100K or 5 years on your car so if you have the original plugs you're overdue according to factory guidelines. I would guess spark plugs are the most overdone maintenance procedure followed by air filter. In the old days and I mean way back, plugs would foul rather quickly if the car wasn't driven at highway speeds once and a while. With the high energy ignition systems that appeared in the 80's, a coat hanger pushed thru a rock would probably fire just fine.

The diagnostic computer (SDS) can check things like fuel pressure. It could be the pressure is a little low. If it fails while on the road it might be a hassle. On the other hand it might just run low and has been that way since day one. Hard to say.

BTW, if you look in your Owner's Manual package, you should find a small booklet called Service Booklet. It has all the recommended service cycles.

Hope that helps some.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBoss
I notice some of you go to Indy shops/dealers to change the spark plugs. Is it really that hard to change it on the W210? I'm going to change mine soon.
Not hard if you are persistent and have some tools. One special tool you will want/need is a 17mm Hazet Valve Adj. wrench (Part no. 110-589-01-10 $35 at dealer) with dog leg handle. It is very hard to get the metal clad boot off the plug (tight quarters) without it. Poster Ohlord sells a similar tool but I don't think it's the Hazet.

Job takes about 3 hrs but mostly due to getting tools in/out of tight quarters.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 02:07 AM
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Change the plugs

even with the purchase of the special 17mm spark plug boot tool you can do the job for about 100 bucks.
At 40k miles you do not need a fuel pump you need a fuel filter and that you can get at www.autohausaz.com

diy procedure for both jobs on www.benzworld.org w210 diy section.
Only idiots over torque plugs and you are not one,so no worries.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by RichardM98
Not hard if you are persistent and have some tools. One special tool you will want/need is a 17mm Hazet Valve Adj. wrench (Part no. 110-589-01-10 $35 at dealer) with dog leg handle. It is very hard to get the metal clad boot off the plug (tight quarters) without it. Poster Ohlord sells a similar tool but I don't think it's the Hazet.

Job takes about 3 hrs but mostly due to getting tools in/out of tight quarters.
Agreed: Getting the metal clad off is the hardest part, and there is not much space for a 6'7" guy like me, with hands to match. Two of the plugs took me nearly half of the time -- a whole afternoon in my case. Considering that I suffered from lower back pain for days afterwards, I would probably shell out the money to have it done next time. Still some 70k to go, fortunately
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JayDee4711
Agreed: Getting the metal clad off is the hardest part, and there is not much space for a 6'7" guy like me, with hands to match. Two of the plugs took me nearly half of the time -- a whole afternoon in my case. Considering that I suffered from lower back pain for days afterwards, I would probably shell out the money to have it done next time. Still some 70k to go, fortunately
Warning OT:

If you have back issues, here's a tip my orthopod taught me. When you have to bend forward for long periods of time, press one of your knees against something such as the basin cabinet when shaving. It's pretty amazing, the strain stops immediately.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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That would have been the radiator in the case at hand. Might leave a permanent impression

Thank for the suggestion. I will try it next time.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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A quick off-topic question. Is it true there was a 10 year warranty for the catalytic converters on our cars? Or was that just 8 year? I'm going to the dealership today to get some stuff so I was wondering if I should mention that.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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2001 E430 Sport; 2000 E320 (RIP 9/9/09); 1991 300SE
for the cats, I believe it was 8 yrs or 80k miles
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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Yes, certain emission control equipment including cats have 8 yr / 80K warranty. Federal regulation. See warranty booklet with OM.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JayDee4711
That would have been the radiator in the case at hand. Might leave a permanent impression

Thank for the suggestion. I will try it next time.
Well for us more vertically challenged individuals it would be closer to the bumper.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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Oh, I thought I read it was 10 years somewhere online. I just got back from the dealer and got foglight lens ordered and I asked about the warranty and they told me it was 8 year/80k. Also, even if I was within the requirements they would not replace it unless it failed an emissions test or "clogged up." Rattling doesn't qualify I guess.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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Rattling should very much qualify.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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Oh, really? They said it wouldn't qualify. I will probably go aftermarket sometime down the road then.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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Mine rattled and they replaced it no questions asked.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 11:36 PM
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Rattling most definitely qualifies. It was one of the most common failure issues and the main reason the warranty is in place by the EPA-DOT.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 09:50 AM
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Yes, rattling would qualify but not after 8 years. OP has a 2002 which could have been built as early as fall of 2001 which might make it over 8 years. But just barely.

BB, if you have never done so, run your VIN at this site and see what the initial delivery date is (line 9). If it's later than 2/27/02, then I would go back and talk to the Service Manager not one of the SA's. Warranty start date will be even later (a couple of months or more). You can find that on the Vehicle Master Inquiry (VMI) which you should ask for next time at the dealer unless you have one. Even someone in the parts dept. can print it out for you.

http://old.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng

I wouldn't give up too easily. This is a pretty expensive warranty repair and you might have to 'fight' a little to get what you're entitled to.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RichardM98
Yes, rattling would qualify but not after 8 years. OP has a 2002 which could have been built as early as fall of 2001 which might make it over 8 years. But just barely.

BB, if you have never done so, run your VIN at this site and see what the initial delivery date is (line 9). If it's later than 2/27/02, then I would go back and talk to the Service Manager not one of the SA's. Warranty start date will be even later (a couple of months or more). You can find that on the Vehicle Master Inquiry (VMI) which you should ask for next time at the dealer unless you have one. Even someone in the parts dept. can print it out for you.

http://old.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng

I wouldn't give up too easily. This is a pretty expensive warranty repair and you might have to 'fight' a little to get what you're entitled to.
Mine was replaced in late 2005
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBoss
Oh, really? They said it wouldn't qualify. I will probably go aftermarket sometime down the road then.
Hold everything! BB you have 97K miles right? That's what disqualifies you. It's 8 years or 80K which ever comes first.
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