99 4matic needs rotors and cv boots
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: COSTA MESA
99' E320 4MATIC ESTATE / 92' 190E 2.6
99 4matic needs rotors and cv boots
So its time...
1. diy level for the rear brake pads/rotors? time and tools...?
2. I know the front axle removal and cv boots are just beyond me and my driveway so I won't go there. What do you think my indie will reasonably charge for the front boots/ brake pads and rotor change out.
3. should I buy brake rotors and pads from somewhere else and what should I expect to pay?
Any input or quick links would be greatly appreciated.
dont' forget...4matic, see below
1. diy level for the rear brake pads/rotors? time and tools...?
2. I know the front axle removal and cv boots are just beyond me and my driveway so I won't go there. What do you think my indie will reasonably charge for the front boots/ brake pads and rotor change out.
3. should I buy brake rotors and pads from somewhere else and what should I expect to pay?
Any input or quick links would be greatly appreciated.
dont' forget...4matic, see below
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 19
From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
Just read the excellent Brake DIY "OK, the brake job" at the top of this forum by Gregs210. You can get factory equivalent rotors and pads from 3rd party vendors like autohausaz for about 60% of dealer price. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 job is probably about 3-4.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 197
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1997 E320 (silver/black)
Estimated cost for ....
pads and rotors for rear is $200. You will also need one or two pad wear sensors and the screws that hold the rotors to the hubs. Job isn't tough if you are comfortable with tools. Do research and you will probably find a how-to procedure.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 259
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From: COSTA MESA
99' E320 4MATIC ESTATE / 92' 190E 2.6
Read up on the diy brake job, finally. I am assuming that it is like any other brake job with a few recommended tools and parts/screws on the ready... Is there any difference with the rear rotors or installation for 4matic. Again, I am only concerned with the rears as my mechanic will tackle the front end when doing the cv boots. Thank you again/as always
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 19
From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
Read up on the diy brake job, finally. I am assuming that it is like any other brake job with a few recommended tools and parts/screws on the ready... Is there any difference with the rear rotors or installation for 4matic. Again, I am only concerned with the rears as my mechanic will tackle the front end when doing the cv boots. Thank you again/as always
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 19
From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
Read up on the diy brake job, finally. I am assuming that it is like any other brake job with a few recommended tools and parts/screws on the ready... Is there any difference with the rear rotors or installation for 4matic. Again, I am only concerned with the rears as my mechanic will tackle the front end when doing the cv boots. Thank you again/as always
Start by spraying the junction of the hub and the axle housing with WD-40 or penetrating oil (better). Tends to seize here due to corrosion. While it's soaking, remove pad retaining pin(s) with a drift or punch. You'll need a 9mm wrench to open the bleed valve and a 2' piece of 3/8" ID tygon tubing (not polyethylene). Open the bleed valve slightly. Using some form of wedge such as a flat blade screw driver gently pry the pistons back by inserting the screw driver between the pads and the pistons. Be careful not to damage the piston edge. Once there is enough clearance, remove the pads and close the bleed valve. Always force brake fluid out of bleed valve not back toward master cylinder.
Remove the caliper mounting bolts (2). These are microencapsulated and must be replaced by new ones from the dealer. Don't reuse. At this point either disconnect the brake hose or support the caliper so that there is no tension on the brake hose. Good to have that planned out ahead of removing the mtg. bolts.
Remove the lock screw on the disk (5 mm hex). Now try to slide off the disc. If you're lucky it will slide off (make sure emergency brake isn't set). If not, retract the emergency brake shoes. If you ever worked on drum brakes, you know there is an adjuster with a 'Star' wheel. On older cars it's at the bottom of the drum. On MB it's near but not exactly at the top. It is adjusted by inserting something like a flat blade screwdriver into one of the lug bolt holes and engaging the star wheel adjuster. Try shining a mag light in one lug bolt hole while looking in the one next to it.
If loosening the brake shoes isn't enough, you may also have to strike the edge of the drum with a hammer to loosen things. As with anything stuck you can strike it 'on' as well as 'off'. A hub puller is nice but probably not cost effective to buy one.
To release the brake shoes -
On the right side, rotate the star wheel 'top downwards'
On the left side, rotate the star wheel 'bottom upwards'
After installing the new discs, tighten the brake shoes until they won't go any farther and then back off 12-15 teeth on the star wheel.
Torque on the caliper mtg bolts is 115 Nm for 4Matic
Torque on brake hose to caliper (if you disconnect) is 18 Nm
Torque on lock screw is 10 Nm
Torque on bleed screw is 7 Nm
You'll need at least one wear sensor (usually right rear) and 2-3 packages of MB brake grease. These are cheap ( ~ $1/ea) so buy a few extras.
Everything you need is available from autohausaz including a liter of Febi DOT 4 + or DOT 4 LV brake fluid.
Can't think of much else.
Last edited by RichardM98; Mar 21, 2010 at 11:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 259
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From: COSTA MESA
99' E320 4MATIC ESTATE / 92' 190E 2.6
Thank you so much richard. I should copy this into the brake sticky...I will have to get all my ducks in a row before starting and this really helps. Thank you so much! I will let you know how it goes...
Thank you so much! I will let you know how it goes...
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 19
From: SoCal
98 Brilliant Silver E320 Wagon
After removing the wheel, check the back of the caliper to see if you have one retaining pin or two (probably). This is needed to order the correct pads.
Start by spraying the junction of the hub and the axle housing with WD-40 or penetrating oil (better). Tends to seize here due to corrosion. While it's soaking, remove pad retaining pin(s) with a drift or punch. You'll need a 9mm wrench to open the bleed valve and a 2' piece of 3/8" ID tygon tubing (not polyethylene). Open the bleed valve slightly. Using some form of wedge such as a flat blade screw driver gently pry the pistons back by inserting the screw driver between the pads and the pistons. Be careful not to damage the piston edge. Once there is enough clearance, remove the pads and close the bleed valve. Always force brake fluid out of bleed valve not back toward master cylinder.
Remove the caliper mounting bolts (2). These are microencapsulated and must be replaced by new ones from the dealer. Don't reuse. At this point either disconnect the brake hose or support the caliper so that there is no tension on the brake hose. Good to have that planned out ahead of removing the mtg. bolts.
Remove the lock screw on the disk (5 mm hex). Now try to slide off the disc. If you're lucky it will slide off (make sure emergency brake isn't set). If not, retract the emergency brake shoes. If you ever worked on drum brakes, you know there is an adjuster with a 'Star' wheel. On older cars it's at the bottom of the drum. On MB it's near but not exactly at the top. It is adjusted by inserting something like a flat blade screwdriver into one of the lug bolt holes and engaging the star wheel adjuster. Try shining a mag light in one lug bolt hole while looking in the one next to it.
If loosening the brake shoes isn't enough, you may also have to strike the edge of the drum with a hammer to loosen things. As with anything stuck you can strike it 'on' as well as 'off'. A hub puller is nice but probably not cost effective to buy one.
To release the brake shoes -
On the right side, rotate the star wheel 'top downwards'
On the left side, rotate the star wheel 'bottom upwards'
After installing the new discs, tighten the brake shoes until they won't go any farther and then back off 12-15 teeth on the star wheel.
Torque on the caliper mtg bolts is 115 Nm for 4Matic
Torque on brake hose to caliper (if you disconnect) is 18 Nm
Torque on lock screw is 10 Nm
Torque on bleed screw is 7 Nm
You'll need at least one wear sensor (usually right rear) and 2-3 packages of MB brake grease. These are cheap ( ~ $1/ea) so buy a few extras.
Everything you need is available from autohausaz including a liter of Febi DOT 4 + or DOT 4 LV brake fluid.
Can't think of much else.
Start by spraying the junction of the hub and the axle housing with WD-40 or penetrating oil (better). Tends to seize here due to corrosion. While it's soaking, remove pad retaining pin(s) with a drift or punch. You'll need a 9mm wrench to open the bleed valve and a 2' piece of 3/8" ID tygon tubing (not polyethylene). Open the bleed valve slightly. Using some form of wedge such as a flat blade screw driver gently pry the pistons back by inserting the screw driver between the pads and the pistons. Be careful not to damage the piston edge. Once there is enough clearance, remove the pads and close the bleed valve. Always force brake fluid out of bleed valve not back toward master cylinder.
Remove the caliper mounting bolts (2). These are microencapsulated and must be replaced by new ones from the dealer. Don't reuse. At this point either disconnect the brake hose or support the caliper so that there is no tension on the brake hose. Good to have that planned out ahead of removing the mtg. bolts.
Remove the lock screw on the disk (5 mm hex). Now try to slide off the disc. If you're lucky it will slide off (make sure emergency brake isn't set). If not, retract the emergency brake shoes. If you ever worked on drum brakes, you know there is an adjuster with a 'Star' wheel. On older cars it's at the bottom of the drum. On MB it's near but not exactly at the top. It is adjusted by inserting something like a flat blade screwdriver into one of the lug bolt holes and engaging the star wheel adjuster. Try shining a mag light in one lug bolt hole while looking in the one next to it.
If loosening the brake shoes isn't enough, you may also have to strike the edge of the drum with a hammer to loosen things. As with anything stuck you can strike it 'on' as well as 'off'. A hub puller is nice but probably not cost effective to buy one.
To release the brake shoes -
On the right side, rotate the star wheel 'top downwards'
On the left side, rotate the star wheel 'bottom upwards'
After installing the new discs, tighten the brake shoes until they won't go any farther and then back off 12-15 teeth on the star wheel.
Torque on the caliper mtg bolts is 115 Nm for 4Matic
Torque on brake hose to caliper (if you disconnect) is 18 Nm
Torque on lock screw is 10 Nm
Torque on bleed screw is 7 Nm
You'll need at least one wear sensor (usually right rear) and 2-3 packages of MB brake grease. These are cheap ( ~ $1/ea) so buy a few extras.
Everything you need is available from autohausaz including a liter of Febi DOT 4 + or DOT 4 LV brake fluid.
Can't think of much else.
ID of tygon tubing in paragraph 2 should be 3/16". The nipple on the bleed valve is about 1/4" so that gives a tight fit to prevent it coming off or letting air get in. Sorry.
