rear driver's side door won't lock/unlock with the rest
There's very little slack in the line, so I can't pull it out any further. Would it be easier to try and repair the connection (splice in a connector?) or run a whole new line through (and just how would I do that?)?
do this) it'll take several hours of labor and few dollars for the hose. but if you
buy an MB replacement hose, it'll be $50...you get the idea.
backyard mechanic: i wonder if you can get to Home Depot or Lowes Hardware
or some such and find an inline hose splice fitting. you'll need to determine the
ID measure of the hose. eyeballing it, it's in the neighborhood of 3/32, i dunno.
but perhaps you can buy varying sizes and return unused ones.
this is the kind of fitting I'm thinking of

the dealer may have some but you'd have to identify them. e.g. say it's for PSE hose
splicing.
i've used similar for motorcycle and car modifications, such as air horns. what
do you think (or anyone else out there)? too ghetto?
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diagnose. whether he did or not, to replace the whole hose, he will still need
to pull the carpet and access behind the lower B pillar. this job is 99% labor.
the part is pennies...a simple hose.
i've not had to replace the hose to any of the locks so can only theorize. I
took this photo when guy installed my multi-contour seats. the hoses were
drawn from the PSE to the front seat bladder controls.
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What I did (ghetto or not) was purchased a piece of vacuum hose from my local auto parts store and re-attached the PSE tubes together that way. They didn't have a small enough inline hose splice fitting and I thought that might restrict air flow too much. I just cut a small piece of rigid vacuum hose and inserted the PSE tubes inside of it. I'll use some clear caulk to seal it. IT WORKS GREAT NOW. I can't believe I fixed it myself. Thanks raymond g- and other forum posters!
seriously, that's a good McGyver fix. of course your logic is sound in respect
to the ID and possible air restriction which I didn't take into consideration.
good job.







