E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Lowering W210 help

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Old Apr 25, 2003 | 12:12 PM
  #1  
Benz's Avatar
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From: Orlando, Florida
2000 F-150 XLT Sport Crew Cab
Lowering W210 help

I have a set of H&R springs, and I would like to keep my stock shocks...Will the H&R springs work with the stock shocks?

I called a mercedes shop and asked them, and he said he would not do it unless i bought new shocks...I think he was trying to make me spend money at his place and i said no....Im 99% sure they will work with the stock shocks, i dont understand why it would not work

any idea?

also...how much did you pay for the install?

Last edited by Benz; Apr 25, 2003 at 12:41 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2003 | 12:43 PM
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98 E430
You don't need them. But if the car has more than 85k, it would be adviseable to change them out at the same time.
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Old Apr 25, 2003 | 12:50 PM
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I agree with Turbo][. You don't need to change your shocks but it is advised with high miles. Try any custom shop or suspenion shop in your area. Usually costs between $200-$250...
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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 01:53 PM
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From: Pacific Palisades, CA & Sherman Oaks, CA (work)
2012 E350 coupe Black/Almond, 61k miles in 2020
Agree, don't need new shocks

I lowered my 2001 E320 at 500 miles with Eibach springs, the regular, not the racing kind. Dropped the car about 1.25", just perfect. I kept the regular shocks per rec. of Globe Motorsport in LA, that installs at least a set of Eibach's per week, and they would know if it wouldn't work. I've now got 35k miles on the new springs, no problem at all.

P.S. I installed Pirello PZero Rosso Assymetrico tires from TireRack at 20k miles, replacing Dunlop 8000. The pirellis are fantastic. much quieter and softer ride than the Dunlops, yet have the same road adhesion and very good in rain. Turning response is slightly slower is the only downside compared to the Dunlops.
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Old May 4, 2003 | 01:15 AM
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2000 w210
I keep reading about abnormal tire wear and alignment problems after lowering a W210.

For those of you that ONLY installed a set of Eibachs (like a ProKit) or H&R's, did you also install a camber kit too? I've heard that without a camber kit you can't get the car into alignment specs which will result in abnormal tire wear. Anybody install the springs without the camber kit?
Scott
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Old May 4, 2003 | 01:27 AM
  #6  
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98 E430
I installed H&R Cup kit, and full trunk, and it desperately need a rear camber kit. The front is kinda okay. However since I'm getting the rear kit, I also got the front kit...

I just made the order, so hopefully I will have it by sometime next week, and probably install it over the weekend....
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Old May 4, 2003 | 04:31 AM
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I installed the H&R Sport springs and Bilstein Sport shocks and have not installed a camber kit yet. My E dropped about 1.4" all around and the camber is slightly off in the front and rear. It drives great right now with no alignment problems but I notice that I might have abnormal tire wear if I don't get the camber kit.

Turbo, did you buy the k-mac camber kit for the front and the rear and how much did it set you back, if you don't mind me asking? Are you going to install it yourself or have it pro. done? Thanks...
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Old May 4, 2003 | 01:40 PM
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It was $560 for both front and rear. I am going to install myself. It's fairly simple, since the kit COMES with the bushing remover and installer. I am estimating that it would take 1-2 hours per side.
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Old May 5, 2003 | 01:24 AM
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OK, so is the general recommendation don't lower the car without the camber kit? I was hoping (perhaps naively) that I could get by with just installing a set of Eibachs and then getting an alignment. Has anyone just installed some Eibachs or H&R's, had the car aligned and had it work out without installing a camber kit?

So then is the general consensus that you don't just install springs to lower the car . . . you've also got to plan on installing a camber kit to make sure the alignment is good or live with abnormal tire wear. Everyone agree? Thanks for your input.
Scott
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Old May 5, 2003 | 02:29 AM
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Regardless if your brand new car has less than 100 miles, it is highly recommended that the shocks be replaced when lowering any car... for these 2 main reasons:

1) Shorter suspension travel.
2) Dampening the now-stiffer springs.

Though factory shocks can be used, they tend to be "soft and bouncy", and they will not last very long. The stiffer springs have different spring constants that the factory shocks are not designed or valved for.

Using the right shocks will also help keep your wheels on the ground, especially if you have heavy aftermarket wheels with plus sizing.

Overall, the extra dollars for the shocks do improve ride quality.

BTW - shocks for the W210 runs about $335 per set.

Shock/spring installation for all 4 corners should take about 1.2 hours from beginning to end (by a reputable and well-equipped shop).
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Old May 5, 2003 | 10:02 AM
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08 S550, 10 GLK350, 05 Clk500
Where can you get a set of performance W210 shocks for $335?
The lowest I found so far is about $390 for 4.
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Old May 5, 2003 | 02:03 PM
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Scott, no you do not have to buy a camber kit for your car when you lower it depending on how low you go. My mechanic said that my camber was only slightly off as my car was lowered 1.4" so I wouldn't need a camber kit if I did not want to purchase one. He did say that my tires would wear in the inside slightly faster without the correct camber setting but that it's not that major. I will agree with everyone in changing the shocks when you change the springs. randall-sd said it well! BTW, here is a link to a set on ebay right now for $359: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33590
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Old May 6, 2003 | 02:04 PM
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My camber specs before/after eibach prokit/pro-damper, aka pro-system:
(with #5 pad front, #2 rear)

Before:
Front: -1.5
Rear: -1.8

After:
Front: -1.0 (after camber correcting bolts)
Rear: -1.8 (no camber adj.)

Custom alignment in Mountain View, CA did the alignment. Great shop.

Joe, the owner said, that he's had a few E55s come in even lower than my car with way more neg. camber, (about -2.3 degrees) and those cars required the rear camber correction kits(K-Mac).

For anything more than -2.0, Joe suggested getting the camber correction kit for the rear.

Hope that helps!

-travis
'98 E430
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Old May 7, 2003 | 06:23 PM
  #14  
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Thanks Randall-sd,
I don't think I could handle Bilstein sport, I just want Bilstein HD to go with Eibach springs. I just want to go halfway, not all the way.
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Old May 9, 2003 | 01:00 PM
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If you don't want to go with Bilstein Sports(which are specifically designed to be mated with lowering springs vs HD is a OEM replacement), why not go with either Koni or Eibach's damper?

I went with the Eibach damper since I was looking for a matched set of components. Works out real well not harsh at all, but definitely stiffer than the OEM setup.

Price wise, all shocks, be it Bilstein, H&R, Koni, Eibach are all about the same price.

Just make sure you get the parts that are meant to work with each other.

cheers,

-travis
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Old May 13, 2003 | 05:25 PM
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I installed Eibach springs and thinner pads with E55 AMG Bilstein shocks and have NOT installed a camber kit yet. Tires seem to wear faster in rear than front. I rotate religiously @ 3000 miles. Wore out a set of rear Dunlop SP9000 in 12K miles.

Bridgestone Potenza SO-3s seem to be wearing a bit better. Definitely a stickier tire than Dunlop.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 05:30 PM
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Originally posted by MikeyE430
I installed Eibach springs and thinner pads with E55 AMG Bilstein shocks and have NOT installed a camber kit yet. Tires seem to wear faster in rear than front. I rotate religiously @ 3000 miles. Wore out a set of rear Dunlop SP9000 in 12K miles.

Bridgestone Potenza SO-3s seem to be wearing a bit better. Definitely a stickier tire than Dunlop.
Hey Mikey, got any pics. of your ride? What size spring pads did you use? The Potenza SO-3's seem to be one of the best tires out there right now. I am thinking of picking up a set for myself as soon as I where out these terrible Pirelli P7000's.
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Old May 14, 2003 | 11:43 AM
  #18  
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From: Music City
2010 E63 AMG, 2000 E430 Sport, Dodge Charger SRT8
Jimmy

I have thinnest pads (#1?) in front and factory pads in rear (unknown#).

Will try to attach pic, but not having much luck with this "Attach File" feature.

MB
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Old May 17, 2003 | 06:20 PM
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From: Cleveland, OH
1999 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel
Three things -

1. When going to lowering springs replace the shocks because the stock shocks are too tall.

2. Bilstein sports are about the same as hd's but are shorter to be used with lowering springs.

3. I could not get my alignment perfect with my h&r/bilstein setup until I got the camber bolts from the dealer. Once that happened the alignment is perfect!

I'm on my own with the tires as far as rotation goes since I have the staggered rim set 18x8 and 18x9 monoblock2's... We'll see how long these last, but so far, I'm very impressed with the Toyo Proxess t1s i've got on there now, MAN are they sticky!
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Old May 18, 2003 | 02:04 PM
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Mikey, nice ride!

Lightman, did you adjust the camber on the front only? How much did the camber bolts cost you from the dealer? To adjust the camber in the front it's only bolts and for the rear it's a kit from K-mac, is this correct? Sorry for the questions, just want to be sure. Thanks...
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Old May 19, 2003 | 10:52 PM
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Originally posted by randall-sd


Shock/spring installation for all 4 corners should take about 1.2 hours from beginning to end (by a reputable and well-equipped shop).
Please tell me the decimal's misplaced decimal in that reported 1.2 hr!

Last edited by Miles O'Waye; May 19, 2003 at 10:58 PM.
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