live_evil626

This is my first post, so I'd like to say in advance how appreciative I'am to have access to such a wealth of information and experience. Ok, I recently picked up a 96' E320 from a local auction for a steal. Not knowing the last time it had been serviced I figured it would be a good idea to do some maintenance first thing. I've changed the oil and filter, trans. fluid and filter, flushed and refilled the coolant. Also replaced pretty much all of the vacuum lines, including the two 3" intake rubber couplings. I also discovered a wiring harness that went from the engine bay, to the trans. that was in very bad shape. I think its the starter lock out/back up switch. I had to open the connectors on each end and replace and solder in new wires. Next on my list is the auto climate control. Its displaying the 'EC' light.
After learning here that means its low on R134a refrigerant. So I picked up a can and added a bit. Not knowing how much was enough, I figured I could put it into diagnostic mode to find out. When I went to try I find most of the controls unresponsive. I can turn on the rear defrost, and I can adjust the blower speed though. With the car off the 'Rest' works as well. It does enter diagnostic mode, but I can not get it to move on to the next value. I press 'Auto' and it does nothing. It just stays on the first sensor and the value switches back and forth from 12 and 13. I don't know what to do next? Please help!

RichardM98

Here's a site which might give you some ideas.

http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27

I suggest you also flush the brake fluid as it's more critical than either the engine oil or the coolant.

ohlord

light means the compressor is not activating. That can mean alot of things other than low 134a.
You can trigger it on in bypass and add 134a or get the system evacuated and install a new drier and have it properly filled with the correct weight and proper amount of ac oil.
Did you enter the onboard error diagnostic program in the climate control and check for errors?
What was a steal?

live_evil626

I thought I could get away with not having to do a brake system flush, until I picked up one of those pneumatic bleeders. I'll now being doing it first thing tomorrow morning hopefully. Thanks to RichardM98 for the advice.

It will enter diagnostic mode, but it won't advance to the next value when I push the left side 'Auto' button. About the compressor, how do I trigger it on a bypass? On my old Ford you can use a jumper to short the connector, and get the compressor kick on. I used a paper clip, bent it so both ends were inserted into the connector. Will that work in this case? Thanks to ohlord for the advise.

...Is 400$ considered a steal???

RichardM98

You can do the bleed the old school way using your foot.

Siphon out the master cylinder and fill with fresh DOT 4+. Bleed 3 oz or 90ml from each wheel starting at the farthest away. Top off master as needed. Takes about 10-15 presses of the pedal per wheel depending on how far open the bleed valve is.

Also, there is one other issue on the CC. Since the car is older there is a chance that it had one of the early A/C temp/pressure sensors which were subject to failure from moisture. That can also cause the E light to stay on. Not too common. Most often it's low charge or compressor failure.

If you haven't done so, you might try disconnecting the battery for 15min to force a reset of all of the electronics. Sometimes this can cure some of the electronic gremlins. These cars are a bit like a PC in that regard.

Wow! $400! Amazing. You could probably sell the seats for that if you wanted to part it out.

ohlord

use Dot4+
w210 1996-2002 and 03 wagons use dot4 you don't need nor mix the 2
Dot4 you can pick up at the corner auto store


$400 is a good deal as long as you don't sink thousands into getting it sorted out. Pass smog?

It has a 4speed I hope you used Dex3

RichardM98

MB recommends DOT 4+ for all models. DOT 4+ is compatible with DOT3 and DOT 4. Perhaps you are thinking of DOT 5.1.

Actually, it is not considering mixing since you are 'flushing' the brake system by forcing the old fluid out with the new.

Also, if someone has ESP they should use DOT 4 Low Volatility for best results.

raymond g-

DOT 3 and 4 are petroleum based and thus, 'can' be mixed, ie does not need to
be completely flushed. DOT 5 is synthetic and the big advantage is higher
boiling point and non-hydroscopic (does not absorb moisture). but! as nice as
this sounds, it is not recommended for MB use....and should only be used in
vehicles/motorcycles etc after verifying that rubber parts etc can handle the
synthetic qualities w/o break down.

ohlord

manual w210 96-02 dot4
If you want to or insist on using the dot4plus by all means go to the dealer and pay the higher price. Try to find dot4 plus at a decent price at oreily's or autozone. The car does not need 500 degree rated brake fluid.
And it is mixing(even if okay to mix) since you will not get all the fluid out without triggering the reserve held in the abs by cycling the abs while process flushing.
Why must everything be an argument

ohlord

manual w210 96-02 dot4
If you want to or insist on using the dot4plus by all means go to the dealer and pay the higher price( last I checked $20 for a 24oz can.). Try to find dot4 plus at a decent price at oreily's or autozone. The car does not need 500 degree rated brake fluid.
And it is mixing(even if okay to mix) since you will not get all the fluid out without triggering the reserve held in the abs by cycling the abs while process flushing.
Why must everything be an argument

RichardM98

The owners manual was written 14 years ago!

You can get DOT4+ and DOT4 LV from autohausaz cheaper than the dealer.

No it is not mixing when you flush the system. Although a trace amount is still present. Mixing is considered to be when a substantial amount of one substance is added such as adding oil, coolant or brake fluid to a reservoir.

Things become arguments because you believe you are never wrong.

ohlord

where on this sheet dot4plus is located for your model and year.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...@Brake%20Fluid
MB on their list of approved fluids has DOT4plus listed for older models as a profit maker. You can but a 32oz bottle of dot4 at the corner store for $6.99 on sale. Try to locate plus4 for anywhere near that.
How much at autohausaz for dot4plus and shipping
You will leave far more than a trace using the foot on the pedal procedure on an abs model.But I could be mistaken having properly bled scores of them

live_evil626

I certainly appreciate all the help I can get, and i'll be taking all of your advice into consideration. Thank you all. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
When it came time for me to get trans. fluid I wasn't sure which to get? I was told at my local auto parts store to use Dex/Merc, and I'd found a really good deal on craigslist.org, for 722.6 MB fluid, 7$/qt. I ended up getting it from the stealership for considerably more, But could you clarify for me if I could have used the others?
Yes it passed smog, with flying colors. So as a matter of fact, I'm a bit worried they may have 'fudged' it??
Is there anyway to get the C.C. to work without the A/C? Like the ventilation and heat???

ohlord

you should be able to set your temp and or use the auto set feature.

As for the transmission for once the auto store was right.

You have a 4 speed auto trans in your 1996 it is the same e class trans used 1994-1996 it uses dex3 no need for the pricey mb 722.6/ Nag1 fluid.

RichardM98

+1 on the DexronIII/Mercon ATF fluid.

MB's seem to do really well on CAL SMOG II testing. The guy at the place I use said MB's are some of the lowest emission cars he tests.

live_evil626

Like I mentioned before, the C.C. won't adjust temp up, or down. Neither 'Auto' buttons will do anything. I can adjust the blower speed, and the 'Rest' works as well. Any ideas what could be the problem???

ohlord

diagnostics. Although it seems like the cc module might be kaput.
Try to borrow one from a local member and see if it works. Takes all of 30 seconds to swap and a set of radio/cc keys.

live_evil626

Will do. Thanks for all the help

live_evil626

So, turns out you were right, the C.C. was 'kaput.' I pulled it out, using my D.I.Y. removal keys. Opened it on up, and upon inspection found a burned circuit trace. I was able to bypass the broken bit with a small piece of wire. I just soldered it in place, put it all back together, and good as new. It was really easy, and i'm sure way cheaper then replacing the unit. Thanks again.

raymond g-

you duh man!